I have my first set of 30 Carbine dies from 1980/81, Carbide wasn't available yet for 30 Carbine. Standard straight dies were $17.99 back then. The next year the carbide sizer or complete set came out at $60 for just the sizer! I notice in my accumulation I now have 2 H.S. steel and 2 carbide sizers I don't remember where I came up with the second set off each, but they had to be used and cheap!
Back in those days, case sizing lube was a messy jell that you rolled on using a type of pad and then wiped or washed off: VERY TIME CONSUMING! I started using BreakFree aerosol by 1984. Break Free won't foul primers. A commercial loader friend of mine then thought he would be smart and use a Teflon lube on a batch of 10,000 308 Win. He ended up pulling them all apart and installing new primers. (I cautioned all my other friends because the powder was fouled to a small degree too.)
Hollywood Die company had the oldest carbide dies I knew of, but would assume the big arsenals were before them! Hollywood offered any cartridge carbide dies in the late 1960's for $175 (1969 price), that same friend had 30-30, 308, and 30-06 dies, he had to place a small dab of lube on each shoulder before sizing. I don't know what product he used. He had a carbide 223 set from Dillon very early on, and hand lubed those also.
The only bottle neck carbide sizer I own is for 357 Sig. from Dillon. Paid up front and waited 14 months for a sizer that requires lubing and is no easier to use than the HS steel sizer! (wasted $180!)
On large batched of 223 and 308, I currently use RCBS AR series dies. they are FL/Small base sizers, and taper crimp seaters., and in a Black Box. I have 223, 308, and 300BO. I use Hornady Spray lube, deal with crimped primers then wet tumble with Stainless Steel pins (usually 3 hours) The load on my Dillion 550 with a standard sizing die that doesn't engage the case in any way (just to stabilize the case for priming)
I did a 20,000-round batch of 223 in 1984, using SB RCBS dies and a small bit of spray on Break Free with the cases not cleaned afterward. I have about 3000 of them left and 40 years this fall; they still work fine.
For my long range bolt action loads, I use Redding Competition FL dies with Neck sizing collets selected for neck wall thickness. My slow twist Cooper 21, 223, gets 1/8 MOA groups at 100 yards, My 1:8 twist Savage gets .3 to .5 MOA at 1000 yards, My Savage 308 10 BAS gets .25 MOA at 500 yards and my Savage 338 Lapua 110 BA gets .25 MOA at 200 yards.
The ammo from that 1984 batch gets .25 MOA from bolt or AR at 100 yards.
Taking the time to do research and testing before a large batch is well worth it. I try to have all the components before I start loading. Trying for: Single batch of powder, of primers and bullets. Huge batches of cases are impossible for single lot! Test firing around 20 to 50 rounds before production is the final check that everything fits well and the components are compatible. (some primer/powder combinations don't play well together!)
Most case mouth activated powder drops have their best consistency with ball powders. (I like WW748 and H335 for 223, and 748 for 308, and used WW 296/H110 for 30 Carbine) I find Varget is better for 223 & 308 accuracy but does pretty bad in most of my powder drops! (I drop a short charge, and bring up to weight on a good/very good beam scale.)
The above is all based on Rifle cartridges, my pistol ammo is mass produced with good data and doesn't show enough difference at 25 yards to require extra effort.
Ivan