What's Up With Unfired New Revolvers With Turn Line?

Turn rings are a fact of life.
Here is a true unfired-since-factory Colt DSII I purchased this year NOS.
Its got a turn ring, and as the first owner I have not fired or turned this revolver yet. I have opened it once to replace the chamber insert.
This is exactly how it came.
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I question how someone even finds used revolvers without a turn line.
I think I've only purchased one revolver ever that didn't have a turn ring, and that was a used USFA with only a cylinder or two through it in its lifetime. Not even a hint of a turn line, but that's because Colt SAA and clone lockwork won't leave a turn line if timed and handled correctly.
 
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I got this 64-4 "NY-1" with a spiffy turn line in 1989. I have never fired it, dry fired it exactly once to check firing pin protrusion. The next owner will be happy with it, or not. Joe
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How can a gun be proven to have been unfired?
If it has been fired at the factory, then it has been fired.
How can it be “proven” that it has not been fired more than once?

After a while with experience you can just tell. Factory test fire is good to go. I do have a couple with just the three burn rings. Most people remove them. Not sure what is preferred.
 
The turn line is from the factory fitting and testing. That is when the parts interacting against the Cylinder are the sharpest they will ever be and cut in the turn line. Over time, they tend to smooth out.

There are certain normal markings on every gun that are just part of its functioning. Same as on any piece of machinery.
 
One thing that affects producing a turn line is how sharp the edge is on the cyl stop. Some are just sharper than others. Some have a "high center" that does not allow the edge to contact the cyl and produce very little turn line.

Many unfired guns have a turn line just from handling and showing. MOST people don't know that when an S&W is closed, you should align a chamber with the barrel so that the cyl does not need to turn. They close it "between" two chambers and then rotate it by hand into battery (locked position).
Do that 5000 times over the next 50 yrs and you will have a turn line to some degree even if you started with none.
It is very easy to learn to close one with a chamber aligned with the bore. ;)
 
Just so you know, the standard for S&W test firing at the factory is three rounds from alternating charge holes (assuming a six shot cylinder). But your point is well taken.

Yes, this is exactly what I was told during a very detailed tour of the Springfield factory some years ago. Semi-autos are tested by firing one full magazine.
 
One thing that affects producing a turn line is how sharp the edge is on the cyl stop. Some are just sharper than others. Some have a "high center" that does not allow the edge to contact the cyl and produce very little turn line.

Many unfired guns have a turn line just from handling and showing. MOST people don't know that when an S&W is closed, you should align a chamber with the barrel so that the cyl does not need to turn. They close it "between" two chambers and then rotate it by hand into battery (locked position).
Do that 5000 times over the next 50 yrs and you will have a turn line to some degree even if you started with none.
It is very easy to learn to close one with a chamber aligned with the bore. ;)

When I buy a new gun that has not been fired (except at the factory) one of the very first things I do is check for burs on the Cylinder Stop. Many times removal of the bur can prevent a deeper and nasty looking turn line. I have seen some pretty rough ones from time to time.

When closing a revolver I do exactly what you state above. It helps immensely.
 
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When closing a revolver I do exactly what you state above. It helps immensely.

I do the same, thanks to information learned on this forum some time ago. I cringe whenever I see someone pull the hammer partially back on a S&W revolver and spin the cylinder.
 
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