Help to id and more?

[curleyjoe]

Hello, Just picked up this little beauty (Looks better than pics!).Its very clean and tight but cant get cylinder opened! and im no novice to guns, but first things first. I am trying to id this thing. with the help of a flashlight and eye loop was able to squeek out the serial # on bottom of barrel B 247297 pat. dates start at march 27th ,94 and last one is sept 14, 09, and bottom of grip reads june 5 1917. Has 4 1/4 inch barrel. And again cant get cylinder open to see yoke. hoping that will work for an id and date? and any help on stuck cylinder would be great. I just need to stare at it a little longer? Seems the latch isnt pushing the cylinder pin (plunger?) in enough to clear? Thanks for any help, RED

 

[TJm15.38]

Well, it's certainly a nice piece from what I can see in your pictures. I'll defer to experts who know these early 20th century Smiths for the purpose of dating the firearm. Have to say, I wouldn't own it if it's not functional. Did you buy it over the internet? Gunbroker?

 

[USBP SW]

Just a guess but with the 1917 date, it could be a regulation police. I haven't looked at a regulation police for some time but I would try to find a way to push the cylinder release a little farther forward, perhaps try removing the cylinder release and if that doesn't work, disassembly may be necessary.

 

[rct269]

Best guess for cylinder---the ejector rod is too long---as in loose. It's not the easiest thing in the world to tighten with the cylinder closed, but it's doable----pliers to turn the rod-----a piece of an old leather belt to protect the rod from the piers.

Small children should be removed from the room lest they learn words beyond their years.

Ralph Tremaine

And as an aside, The B on the bottom of the barrel indicates the Blue finish------not part of the serial number.

As to what it is, appears to be an M&P. As to when, before the early 1920's---I'll have a look at the letters for some of mine to get closer.

Well that was a nice try. I had some too early. and others too late---so let's start at a beginning place----what's the caliber?

 

[curleyjoe]

No, got it with a couple other today. operates perfectly, times up great and is all tight. its just something simple. i havnt even took latch off to see whats going on yet. im probably not holdin my mouth right? ill get it straight, just need to study it for a bit, and heck, it only set me back 100 bucks so kinda glad i couldnt get it opened at the time! RED

 

[curleyjoe]

Hey guys, just a thought, in my second pic should that plunger thats in the lug at the bottom of the barrel be protruding out like that?

 

[Muley Gil]

It IS a Regulation Police revolver.

I also believe the ejector rod is loose.

 

[Green Frog]

With the bottom of the grip frame covered by the stock and the caliber apparently being 32 Long, I’m going to call it a Regulation Police Model. I’m surprised you didn’t see a serial number on the front grip strap though. I’m not surprised the cylinder release is sticking… I’ve experienced that with a couple of mine. Before resorting to disassembly, I’d shoot it wit some Kroil or other penetrating oil and see whether it loosens up. If the lock plunger is being pushed that far forward, it should open.
Froggie

 

[Green Frog]

PS I looked at “the book” and that SN places it at about 1915-1917. I would be curious as to whether those are the original stocks or added later. Does the frame have a relief notch cut to match the stacks?
GF

 

[StrawHat]

It is a Regulation Police Model. The loose extractor rod can be tightened by pushing a wooden wedge between the rod and barrel tight enough to keep the rod from turning. Pull back on the hammer to drop the cylinder stop and hold the hammer in that position. Then, spin the cylinder and tighten the rod. Tighten it enough to open the cylinder. Once the cylinder is open, unscrew the rod, clean the threads (male and female) with alcohol or some other volatile degreaser, apply a thread sealant and reassemble the parts. Walk away for 24hours. Your problem is now fixed.

Kevin

 

[rct269]

It is a Regulation Police Model. The loose extractor rod can be tightened by pushing a wooden wedge between the rod and barrel tight enough to keep the rod from turning. Pull back on the hammer to drop the cylinder stop and hold the hammer in that position. Then, spin the cylinder and tighten the rod. Tighten it enough to open the cylinder. Once the cylinder is open, unscrew the rod, clean the threads (male and female) with alcohol or some other volatile degreaser, apply a thread sealant and reassemble the parts. Walk away for 24hours. Your problem is now fixed.

Kevin

Yeah, what he said! Never mind the pliers!

RCT

 

[Wiregrassguy]

As noted, a .32 Regulation Police. Probably shipped in 1917 although your serial is very low for an RP. You might want to recheck the digits on the serial as they are hard to read with the font they used back then. The official serial is on the front strap of the grip frame. The grips are from the 1920 decade. FYI on tightening the extractor rod, it is right hand thread. So right to tight, left to loose. Below is my grandfather's .32 RP from 1924:

 

[curleyjoe]

sure aint workin out that easily! seeing the cylinder spins the oposite direction that i need to go and cant get a wedge that will hold? think i need to be a octopus to get that done. how bout if i punch out that tiny pin that holds that plunger in the under lug? Seems that might do the trick or am i wrong?

 

[curleyjoe]

there is no number on front strap and my logo is on opposite side if that means anything?

 

[curleyjoe]

ok, took grips off and same number on bottom of frame 247297

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Ok. Do NOT punch out the pin on the locking bolt. It won't help since the bolt is removed toward the cylinder. Apparently, you have a .32 Hand Ejector with RP grips. All pre-WWII RP's have the serial on the front grip strap and have a rebated backstrap that mates up with the grips. My guess is your backstrap is smooth, not stepped (rebated). See below:

 

[curleyjoe]

yes. mine is smooth

 

[bruce5781]

The prettiest 1899 I have ever seen, I got off a small online auction for an opening bid of $250. I can't even get a good photo because the blue is so vibrant.
I can only assume no one on-site wanted it because the cylinder would not open when I received it. Half a can of spray brake cleaner later, viola, it popped. Inside was gum city.

Sent from my SM-G781U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Green Frog]

Looking at the pictures of the front strap I really thought it was a round butt frame. You have confirmed it with your later post.
As for the e-rod problem, I hesitate to tell you what I would do, but if your efforts so far have failed, a trip to a S&W gunsmith should be short and easy.
To bruce5781: the 1899 has a completely different locking mechanism (no front lug) so other than the gumming problem, the problem curleyjoe is experiencing is very different.

Froggie

 

[rct269]

Don't be talking about "gum city" inside---there are those here who take great pride in never having a sideplate off----never mind taking it off is the factory's recommendation for proper cleaning and lubrication!!

I reckon they just don't want to know.

Ralph Tremaine