New 686 very stiff hammer pull

[Rosevillemiguel]

I bought a new model 686 last month. It is my first revolver. I took it to the range a week ago and fired half a box of 38 special and 357. It shoots great but every 5-10 shots the hammer pull in single or double action is very stiff. When this happens, I can pull the hammer back about 90% of the way without problems but then it seems to jam and hit something and can only be brought to full cock with considerable effort. Once cocked the trigger pull is VERY heavy requiring 3 to 4 times the effort of a "normal" pull.

I found I can replicate the problem using empty brass. After some investigation at home and trial and error I have found that the problem seems to only happen when the gun is pointed up and the brass is allowed to slide back slightly in the cylinder. When cocking something hits the shell in the 1 o'clock position (when looking at the back of the revolver). I assume that the hand is pinching that shell which is not fully forward in the cylinder.

While pointing the revolver up and letting the empty cases slide back if I pull the hammer back it will jam and fail to cock. If I then push the 1 o'clock shell forward with my thumbnail it will click forward ever so slightly and the hammer strain is relieved and the hammer cocks normally.

If I keep the revolver pointed at the ground I can cock and pull the trigger without problems.

I took a 15 second video of this to demonstrate. But it failed to attach. I sent a note to the admin and if they can sort this out, I'll attach it later.

Any ideas on a cause? I am hoping to not send the revolver back for repairs as I only just picked it up!

 

[Protocall_Design]

The tip of the hand nose is probably proud of the recoil shield and catching on the rim of the cartridge. Look for dings on the bottom of the rims. This can be fixed by carefully grinding the tip of the hand nose back to just flush with the recoil shield.

 

[stansdds]

Or, since it is brand new and under the S&W warranty, contact S&W regarding this problem. Welcome to the S&W Forums!

 

[Rosevillemiguel]

Protocall_Design Thanks for the quick response. Being new to revolvers, I am not sure on all the parts and terms and how things are supposed to work.

If I understand what you are saying the hand needs extend forward enough the engage the star to rotate the cylinder but not so far that it extends too far forward and catches the cases that are riding against the recoil shield?

If that is the case, then filing the front of the hand would address this problem?

Or are you saying that the hand is too wide and catches the shell that is at the 4 o clock position on its way up to 1 o clock and eventually binds on it as it slowly rotates upward and to the left. in which case, i should narrow the hand slightly to avoid the binding?

Since I can't operate the trigger when the cylinder is open to see the hand operation. I can't see how far forward or to the right that the hand extends when the cylinder is closed and the trigger can operate. Is there a way to operate the trigger when the cylinder is open?

 

[Rosevillemiguel]

I may end up going down this path since it is under warranty. There is a part of me that wants to understand how this new-to-me machine operates though and thus the inquiry here with those who know much more than me.

 

[DT75]

Pull back on the cylinder release button (and hold it back), then you can cycle the revolver when the cylinder is swung out.

 

[Protocall_Design]

You don't want to make the hand thinner in this case. It is just the front to back length of the tip that needs work. The hand is hardened tool steel, so a regular file will not work. You need either a diamond file or a grinder or disk sander for this job.

 

[Dave686]

I may end up going down this path since it is under warranty. There is a part of me that wants to understand how this new-to-me machine operates though and thus the inquiry here with those who know much more than me.

Getting a new gun that needs to go back to the factory is terrible. But that's what needs to happen here. Over 50 years I've only had to do it 2 or 3 times with Smith & Wesson's. I don't believe in "Break in" for a S&W firearm. It works out of the box, or it's broke and goes back.

S&W customer service is not what it once was, and I wouldn't attempt trying to fix it while its under warranty. It may be their reason they use for not fixing it under warranty. I get no satisfaction in saying that, its just fact.

If you want to see how your revolver works, I would suggest you try to find Jerry Miculeks DVD called "Trigger job". I'm not suggesting you try to fix your new revolver or do a trigger job. I'm just saying that's the best video I've seen on how a K,L or N frame revolver works. Or if someday you decide to try, how to do a trigger job.

It's a really old DVD and hard to find, but it looks like midway has it at the link below for $22.

The text for the link turned into "Access Denied" so Maybe I'm not supposed to be posting it. But anyway, now you know where it is if you are interested.

 

[Rosevillemiguel]

I wanted to let everyone know how this worked out.

Given that the revolver was new, I did not want to mess with the original hand. I ordered a second which was identical to the original so I could make changes to it, but still return the revolver if there were problems.

I took a fine sharpening stone and ever so slightly rounded the top outside corner of the hand. The originals were sharp and tended to bite into the softer brass rim of the case, causing the jam. I did not have to alter the depth of the hand.I reinstalled the new rounded hand, and the problem appears to be resolved.

Thanks to all who provided advice. I love this forum for that reason

 

[NYlakesider]

I wanted to let everyone know how this worked out.

Given that the revolver was new, I did not want to mess with the original hand. I ordered a second which was identical to the original so I could make changes to it, but still return the revolver if there were problems.

I took a fine sharpening stone and ever so slightly rounded the top outside corner of the hand. The originals were sharp and tended to bite into the softer brass rim of the case, causing the jam. I did not have to alter the depth of the hand.I reinstalled the new rounded hand, and the problem appears to be resolved.

Thanks to all who provided advice. I love this forum for that reason

Alls well that ends well!

 

[SWFan27]

I may end up going down this path since it is under warranty. There is a part of me that wants to understand how this new-to-me machine operates though and thus the inquiry here with those who know much more than me.

I sent a revolver to S&W for warranty work a few months ago. Pretty easy process and my Model 617 is working and shooting great now.

 

[rct269]

I'm obliged to recall an article, a photo essay--10 pages/60 photos in the 1954 edition of the Gun Digest (Raw Steel To Smith & Wesson-The Story of Revolver Making). Therein they note there are over 500 inspections performed along the way---on each and every gun. That was back when their philosophy was, We will be successful if we build the best possible product for the price.

Time passed, and things changed. Nowadays the philosophy is very clearly, We will be successful if we build the product at the lowest possible cost.

I wonder how many inspections are performed now? I reckon that's your job these days.

Damn shame too!

Ralph Tremaine

 

[pistolpete10]

An example of poor quality S&W has now days. It surprises me more if I get a good gun from them now days. Won't buy another new one.

 

[AudieMurphy]

You don't want to make the hand thinner in this case. It is just the front to back length of the tip that needs work. The hand is hardened tool steel, so a regular file will not work. You need either a diamond file or a grinder or disk sander for this job.

NO! no grinder or disc wheel....its a good concept BUT you take off too much and its off for a new hand....and possible void warranty....try stoning it a little at a time. It may take several tries but better to take to little than too much