Another Lubrication Thread

Not much of a mystery. From the Wilson Site...

Ultima-Lube II is available in five formulations:

Ultima-Lube II Oil: Thin viscosity penetrates hard-to-get-to areas. Ideal for cold weather use, 10° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Tightly fitted handguns of all types.
Item number 577-2, 577-4
Material Safety Data Sheets (60% Lucas Gun Oil # 10560, 40% Lucas Assembly Lube # 10559)

Ultima-Lube II Universal: All-purpose thin viscosity grease for all firearms, 30° to 200° F temperature range. It is recommended for service pistols/revolvers, broken-in custom handguns, long guns of all action types, and AR-style rifles.
Item number 1027-2, 1027-4
Material Safety Data Sheet (Chevron Multifak EP 00)

Ultima-Lube II Grease: Ideal for heavy-wear areas, it stays in place under extreme conditions, in the 40° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Full and semi-automatic rifles and carbines. It is Optimal in AR-style rifles at temperatures above 50° F.
Item number 579-2, 579-4
Material Safety Data Sheets (35% Lucas Gun Oil # 10560, 65% Lucas Assembly Lube # 10559)

Ultima-Lube II Lite Oil: A very low-viscosity lubricant, ideal for extreme cold weather use. Recommended Uses: Tightly fitted handguns of minor caliber.
Item number 621-2, 621-4
Material Safety Data Sheet (Lucas Gun Oil # 10560)

Ultima-Lube II Action Oil: Features a special blend of additives that make this oil perfect for all types of high-friction firearms while also ensuring it adheres well to metal surfaces without adding heavy drag found in heavy greases. Recommended for high-volume, high-heat producing firearms, with an operating range of -40° to 425° F.
Item number 968-2, 968-4
Material Safety Data Sheet (Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil # 10901)
 
Like most of you, I’ve been using some type of gun lube for many years.

I looked at my accumulation of lube. I have many to choose from.

Hoppes
Lucas
Wilson
Break Free
REM Oil
Pro Gold
Frog Lube
Tetra Gun
And a few others.

All have worked fine. Obviously I fell for the marketing hype. The cool names and manufacturers claims.

But I think back decades ago and I remember cleaning my father’s guns with Hoppes. It was all we had. It was all that was available as far as I knew.

A good cleaning and a light film produced no problems at all.

One thing I’ve noticed over the years is that oil will dissipate when the gun gets hot. What’s left behind is what counts.

So again, clean your guns after every session instead of putting it off. Learn how to completely disassemble your guns. What accumulates in amongst the parts may surprise you.

Ask me how I know. :rolleyes:
 
This is like the car forums I go to...motor oil...oil filters...car wax...gasoline...tires...nothing but everyone hawking their favorite.

There's no mom and pop oil refineries...all the lubricants come from the big boys under someone else's name. They all will work...there might be differences but they are minor and usually insignificant for all but the most extreme uses.
 
Lubes/oils are much like ammo choices. Find a good one, use it correctly, and practice with it. You know your gun, you know how you use it, and you should know what it needs. I have used many different kinds of oils and lubes. The only issue I ever had was with my 1911 and Frog lube. During quals I would drop a mag and then reload. The dirt in the mag caused some issues with the slide, nothing that a little cleaning didn't fix. That and I blew the dirt out of the mags.

A lesson learned under controlled circumstances and taken with me every day.
 
Years ago, prominent gun writer Warren Page, who received many complimentary samples of gun cleaning products, lubes, etc., was asked what his favorite cleaner was. His response: "Whatever's free!" That probably still sums up the differences in product results.
 
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All the new fads in the last 60 years are just boutique stuff. Go with the original.

9128_Hoppes_GunCleaner_Standard1.jpg
 
I have a most of a pint bottle of Shooter’s Choice bore cleaner. I can’t say if it is good or bad, only that it was free. Someone gave it to me about 10 years back.
 
Been using CLP for a long time and it works pretty well. I have been using TW25B for my semiauto slidey parts and it seems to work well too. I know lots of folks who have used Mobil 1 for a looong time and swear by it.
 
I have a most of a pint bottle of Shooter’s Choice bore cleaner. I can’t say if it is good or bad, only that it was free. Someone gave it to me about 10 years back.

Shooter's Choice remains a good solvent not only for general bore cleaning but for copper removal. It was very popular until newer, faster copper removers were marketed. Still works on copper but may need to be left in the bore overnight to do an effective job.

If you don't need a copper remover, the less expensive Hoppe's #9 or Ed's Red works fine.
 
I have my own favorites for firearms, and use some of my "gun" stuff for blades, and tools and reloading dies, and even on auto things. I can't really say that "new" concoctions work better than what I might have from years gone by. I just like my giuns to run and not rust. They all do well at that to some degree. I am not really a member of the "lube of the month" club. SF VET
 
I have some brand of copper fouling remover, do not remember the brand. I have only one gun, a Winchester 94, which seems to get its barrel fouled. Maybe the bore is a little rough.
 
My question has always been what do you do with all of the old bottles of oil and/or bore cleaner when you find something you think works better?

I can't really say I've found one that works better for me than the other, so I used them. When I used my last remaining RemOil, I have a gallon of Radcolube CLP that I'll start on next.

I once had someone ask me what gun oil I recommended. I told him "whatever is on sale".
 
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