Resizing 10mm Brass

I have experienced no problems with 10mm brass resizing (returning to spec, if you prefer) or any case bulges on brass from either the HiPoint (my 1st 10mm) or the XDM Elite. Although I, too, don't reload any real higher velocity (AKA, "Defensive-type") ammo in anything but new or once-fired Starline cases.

Just lucky, I guess?

Cheers!

P.S. I am still amazed as to just how accurate that HiPoint 10mm has proven to be. All that weight seems to negate any negative recoil effects, and it has become my test mule for both 40 S&W & 10mm reloading. Reliability has been 100%, although I did clean, lubricate & polish the feed ramp prior to firing it for the 2st time. (EDIT: Although a typo, I did shoot it once before I polished the ramp.)
 
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Chuke's (Outdoor Adventures) list of the "10 Best 10mms" consistently lists the XDM as the 2nd "Best"(?) 10mm. And this is in some very expen$ive company as well!

1st place is a $2K+ Dan Wesson (now CZ) 1911...

Cheers!

P.S. Love mine (& their 45acp Elite Compact)! Only SA firearms I have ever owned.
 
I did, but Lee clearly states that their die will remove the bulge but the weak spot remains a weak spot even after the die presses it out. And it's prone to fail at that spot.

So currently I'm unsure what to do with my Glock 20 brass. With my high performance bear ammo, leaving it on the ground might be a good option as SSBiggun stated.

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LEE is right,,,,,,,,You're creating weakened brass that could go boom...........I won't do it.
 
I have picked up 10mm brass fired through a Glock(apparently, it's got the bulge.)
Could not size fully.

I end up throwing them away.
 
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On a side note, I ran into my 1st EVER 9mm case with a very noticeable GLOCK "smile" the other day, to the extent that it wouldn't go through the pistol caliber LEE Ammo Checker. This was 1 out of easily way, way over 10K 9mm brass I've processed from various and sundry sources...

Don't have a clue from whence it came.

Cheers!
 
I bulge bust all my 40, 10mm, 357sig, 9x25 dillon prior to full length sizing. It straightens the cases out back to factory dimensions. Also makes fl sizing easier. Use that brass for range loads. Use new brass for full power. Never had a case blow out in a fully supported chamber. Only ever seen that happen in unsupported chambers.

If after running thru bulge buster i can still see a smile, then it goes in scrap.

Rosewood
 
On a side note, I ran into my 1st EVER 9mm case with a very noticeable GLOCK "smile" the other day, to the extent that it wouldn't go through the pistol caliber LEE Ammo Checker. This was 1 out of easily way, way over 10K 9mm brass I've processed from various and sundry sources...

Don't have a clue from whence it came.

Cheers!
Unfortunately, bulge buster won't work on 9mm because of the tapered case.
 
I did, but Lee clearly states that their die will remove the bulge but the weak spot remains a weak spot even after the die presses it out. And it's prone to fail at that spot.

So currently I'm unsure what to do with my Glock 20 brass. With my high performance bear ammo, leaving it on the ground might be a good option as SSBiggun stated.

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I suppose if the same case gets the bulge area resized a few times it would indeed become a weak spot.
 
So long as the cases only have a smooth bulge they should be OK!
I run all my 40, 10mm, 357sig, 9x25 Dillon cases through the LEE pass through sizer prior to full length sizing.
I also do all 45ACP cases through the LEE pass through sizer.
I also do all 380ACP cases through the LEE pass through sizer.
 
I have 10mm handguns from several different companies. The Springfield XDm provides the most support for the case, and the Witness is second best. Of course, the S&W 610 is the best, but it's a revolver. The Colt Delta Elite isn't much better than Glocks when it comes to an unsupported chamber in 10mm. I had two of the Colts, but sold one.

Before Magma Engineering closed their doors, they produced a Case Master Jr. for full length sizing of rimless straight wall pistol cases. It's based on a slightly oversized Dillon carbide sizing die in an arbor press. It has a manual case feeder so you can go through cases pretty fast, as long as your arm and shoulder hold out. The cases are fully lubed with spray case lube prior to sizing, but it's still quite a bit of work, but it does size the entire case, mouth to rim, since it pushes the cases all the way through the die, much like a Star bullet sizer/luber sizes and lubes bullets.

I have the 9mm, 10mm and .45acp setups for mine, but to tell you the truth, I haven't used it in awhile. With those setups I can size 9x19, 9x21, 9x23, 10mm, 357 Sig, 9x25, .40 and .45acp.

Hope this helps.

Fred

PS: Please don't leave your brass on the ground at the range. Someone else just has to clean it up.
 
The Colt Delta Elite isn't much better than Glocks when it comes to an unsupported chamber in 10mm. I had two of the Colts, but sold one.
Brother has an Auto ordnance 10mm that came with the standard 1911 throated barrel. We once had a case blow out, so we stopped shooting anything hot in it. A few years ago, we invested in a bench top mill and I used it to cut the frame for a Para/Clark ramped barrel. Installed ramped barrel and all is well. Full supported and no danger of blowing out now.

If I owned a Delta Elite, I might hesitate, but I would probably go ahead and cut it for ramped barrel so I it wouldn't have to be a safe queen.

Rosewood
 
Considering the discussion is focusing on poorly supported cases in a 10mm, how well do the S&W M&Ps support 10mm cases?
I'm curious as well, seems better than the Glock 20, but I can't swear to it. Haven't really investigated it.

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