ID Inquiry for .38 Special with No Model Number

[CTGray]

Hello, I need some help identifying this .38 special hand ejector with no model number on the yoke. There is only a manufacturing/part number on the yoke. I don't know much about these at all. Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide! I truly appreciate it!

1. Type- Hand ejector

2. Serial number 278676, no letter marks.

3. Cartridge- .38 Special

4. Barrel length is 4"

5. Fixed sights

There is a strain screw on the grip, and the gun appears to be a "4 screw" gun. I'm not sure if I'm counting them correctly.

 

[Muley Gil]

Welcome to the Forum.

You have a .38 Military & Police, made before mid 1922. The stocks date from 1968 or later. it has been reblued.

 

[AudieMurphy]

It was made before the "made in USA" was stamped on the right side. I think S&W did that late 20's...also its been reblued

 

[Wiregrassguy]

As Gil said, it is a .38 M&P made in 1917. It is a 5 screw and the rear screw on the sideplate is covered by the more modern magna stocks. Original stocks would have been round top with gold medallions. This version of the .38 M&P was made from 1915 until after WWII. The only major difference was the extractor rod knob changed from the mushroom shape to a barrel shape in 1928.

 

[CTGray]

Welcome to the Forum.

You have a .38 Military & Police, made before mid 1922. The stocks date from 1968 or later. it has been reblued.

Thank you for the warm welcome and quick response. I figured it was an older one, but I didn't expect it to be that early. Is there anything I should do other than ordinary care to preserve its quality? Does the rebluing significantly decrease its value? Thank you again for all your help!

 

[CTGray]

It was made before the "made in USA" was stamped on the right side. I think S&W did that late 20's...also its been reblued

Thank you so much for your help!

 

[CTGray]

As Gil said, it is a .38 M&P made in 1917. It is a 5 screw and the rear screw on the sideplate is covered by the more modern magna stocks. Original stocks would have been round top with gold medallions. This version of the .38 M&P was made from 1915 until after WWII. The only major difference was the extractor rod knob changed from the mushroom shape to a barrel shape in 1928.

You guys have been extremely helpful! Far exceeded the depth of info I expected. I wouldn't even know where to begin without your help. Thanks again, and I'm glad to be a new member of the forum.

 

[JP@AK]

Welcome to the S&W Forum, CTGray.
You received good information from Gil and Guy. Stick around. Lots of interesting information on this site.

 

[Sevens]

Does the rebluing significantly decrease its value?

Not an easy question to answer for certain, but it kind of goes like this…

If the revolver were totally original and high condition, then YES, a reblue would damage its monetary/collectible value.

Chances are that someone had it reblued because it was not in extremely high condition.

It also makes sense to mention that you own a revolver that was such a fantastic design that everyone wanted one, and S&W worked feverishly to make sure everyone could get one. It has been argued that some six million of this basic frame, action and caliber model design were built and shipped. I think it's possible that the Glock has eclipsed it in production, but the basic S&W K-38 held the crown for many decades as the single most produced model of handgun in the world's history.

…of course, this means that the value of your gun in the market was never going to be in the stratosphere at any point.

So, you should not lose sleep that someone had it refinished.

Sometimes this question comes in the other direction. "I have this old gun in my family, I want to get it refinished!" And we will typically suggest that they don't do it.

 

[glowe]

Not an easy question to answer for certain, but it kind of goes like this…

If the revolver were totally original and high condition, then YES, a reblue would damage its monetary/collectible value.

Chances are that someone had it reblued because it was not in extremely high condition.

Welcome to the Forum. Looking at the barrel closeup, you will see rust pitting that was too deep to remove, so the pitting remained and is blued, which is always something to look for when determining original finish or not. Yes, in this case the refinish definitely reduces value, but this model and era M&P has a relatively low value if finish is worn. It will likely function like new and shoot fine forever.

There are ways to determine the era a gun was manufactured by looking for what some referenced above. The MADE IN USA stamp was ordered in May, 1922. The mushroom shaped ejector rod knob was ordered replaced with the barrel knob on January 22, 1927. These dates, however, are well after your gun was originally shipped from the factory, likely near June, 1917 and would have had gold medallion walnut diamond stocks that looked like these below. S&W did not ship guns in serial number order, but with WWI underway, sales were very high, so they went out the factory door as soon as manufactured in most cases. BTW, the revolver is known to collectors as a 38 Military & Police, 4th Change.

 

[CTGray]

Welcome to the S&W Forum, CTGray.
You received good information from Gil and Guy. Stick around. Lots of interesting information on this site.

Thank you! I'm glad to be here

 

[CTGray]

Not an easy question to answer for certain, but it kind of goes like this…

If the revolver were totally original and high condition, then YES, a reblue would damage its monetary/collectible value.

Chances are that someone had it reblued because it was not in extremely high condition.

It also makes sense to mention that you own a revolver that was such a fantastic design that everyone wanted one, and S&W worked feverishly to make sure everyone could get one. It has been argued that some six million of this basic frame, action and caliber model design were built and shipped. I think it's possible that the Glock has eclipsed it in production, but the basic S&W K-38 held the crown for many decades as the single most produced model of handgun in the world's history.

…of course, this means that the value of your gun in the market was never going to be in the stratosphere at any point.

So, you should not lose sleep that someone had it refinished.

Sometimes this question comes in the other direction. "I have this old gun in my family, I want to get it refinished!" And we will typically suggest that they don't do it.

Thank you for your reply! That makes complete sense with such a saturated market, but I think I'll hold onto this gun anyway. Knowing that it has been around for over a century holds more personal value to me than some small profit margin. It's my first S&W revolver, and now I have a feeling it won't be my last. The information available on this forum is priceless, and I'm stoked to be here! Thanks again

 

[CTGray]

Welcome to the Forum. Looking at the barrel closeup, you will see rust pitting that was too deep to remove, so the pitting remained and is blued, which is always something to look for when determining original finish or not. Yes, in this case the refinish definitely reduces value, but this model and era M&P has a relatively low value if finish is worn. It will likely function like new and shoot fine forever.

There are ways to determine the era a gun was manufactured by looking for what some referenced above. The MADE IN USA stamp was ordered in May, 1922. The mushroom shaped ejector rod knob was ordered replaced with the barrel knob on January 22, 1927. These dates, however, are well after your gun was originally shipped from the factory, likely near June, 1917 and would have had gold medallion walnut diamond stocks that looked like these below. S&W did not ship guns in serial number order, but with WWI underway, sales were very high, so they went out the factory door as soon as manufactured in most cases. BTW, the revolver is known to collectors as a 38 Military & Police, 4th Change.

View attachment 785688

Thank you for your help! There is no way I would have ever known any of this if it weren't for the knowledge shared here. Thanks for breaking down some of the determining factors for narrowing down the gun's age. I have already learned so much in such a short time, and I know I haven't even scratched the surface of info available here. I'm excited to be a new member, and I look forward to learning more from everyone. Thank you again for taking the time to break everything down for me!