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Old 03-25-2012, 02:33 PM
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Default How to remove bluing.

What I have is a pre was 32HE. Some one many years
ago thought it was a good idea to blue the hammer and
trigger. Need to know how to get the blue off. Would like
to do it myself. Thanks for helping.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:45 PM
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I've used white vinegar to remove bluing. Just soak them and then you should be able to wipe the bluing off.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:51 PM
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thank you sir!
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:40 PM
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They'll be 'in the white' when you get done. No case colors or anything. Maybe a little grey in color depending on what you use.

Naval Jelly Rust Remover works good too. I use it all the time to de-blue parts. It has phosphoric acid in it to do the job,,same as PesiCola which is why it'll work too though very slowly.

I also use a very dilute mix of hydrochloric acid in the form of Muriadic Acid (Pool Cleaner stuff) in water.
Room temp,,maybe a tablespoon to a quart of water. Parts come out grey but can be quickly burnished up bright with steel wool. Hot blueing comes off in a few minutes. Rust blue takes a little longer but should be able to be wiped off in 15 minutes or so.

No it won't pit anything. I put pistol bbls right into the stuff to strip them w/o damage. Just don't leave them overnite!
...Or over a weekend like a certain expert I know did with an annealed LC Smith Crown Grade to remove the heat scale.

With any of these including the vinegar,,neutralize it afterwards with at least a good scrubbing in hot soapy water and a brush. Then flush with hot water and wd40,,then oil with good stuff.
I've never had any rust problems doing it this way in 40yrs. Sometimes the in the white parts set around for weeks before working on them.

You don't want acid residue (which is what's doing the work in every one of these) to grow rust out from small crevises and pin holes after it's back together and you haven't looked at it again for a week.

Last edited by 2152hq; 03-25-2012 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:23 PM
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Naval jelly or Birchwood Casey Bluing Remover.
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:36 PM
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To neutralize any of the acids after rinsing with fresh water, use some water with baking soda dissolved in it.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:08 PM
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If I may ask - once the blue is removed and the parts are white (lets say) do you then heat treat them to try and get case color?

Pete
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:15 PM
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Wink Blue Remover

Hey George...if you can get some blood somewhere, it takes bluing off beautifully...I know that from deer hunting...do you have a slaughterhouse near you? Maybe prick your finger with one of those testing strip lancets? Good luck! See you at OGCA...
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:29 PM
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Whenever I've left my guns out in the rain the blueing seems to come right off.
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:07 PM
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I once read that ketchup works great at getting rid of blueing.
The poster said you did not want to know how he found that out.

Probable grabbed the barrel of his trap gun and a hamburger with the same hand.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:14 PM
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Blood works nicely.In fact, there's a WW II Luger at the LGS with a blood etched thumb print.
If you want to get artistic. Put a new gun in a pistol rug with a spider. It's a lovely pattern.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete99004 View Post
If I may ask - once the blue is removed and the parts are white (lets say) do you then heat treat them to try and get case color?

Pete
Pete, I think you need a pro for that. It is a tricky process, from what I read. Doug Turnbull's shop does it, as does Dave Chicoine. There are others out there, too.

Last edited by Onomea; 03-26-2012 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:53 PM
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Never tried it, but what about a lead removing cloth that is used on stainless steel. It is advertised not to use on blued guns.
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pharman View Post
Hey George...if you can get some blood somewhere, it takes bluing off beautifully...I know that from deer hunting...do you have a slaughterhouse near you? Maybe prick your finger with one of those testing strip lancets? Good luck! See you at OGCA...
thanks everyone for the info. the post above is one of the best still laughing. I have made that mistake during deer season,hand print is still around my dads shotgun boy was he mad!! thanks bud i needed a good laugh first thing this morning. make
sure you look me up in May at the OGCA should be in row I.

Thanks again everyone!
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:22 PM
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Another way to remove bluing is to let a kid with sticky fingers handle it and then stick it away before you find out. Don't ask how I know this...
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:52 PM
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George: The best and fastest way to totally remove all blue from metal parts is to use...........50% warm water and 50% "The Works" a common disinfectant toilet bowl cleaner. Try to not breathe too much of the vapors. Wear gloves, swish around, wipe down in the bath using a small piece of white t-shirt material. Rinse with running cold tap water and dry metal part with a hair dryer. Your part is now 100% free of blue even in deep crevices. Production re-bluers have been using this product for years. .......... Big Cholla
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:20 PM
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Naval Jelly (the same stuff in toilet cleaner) works but, like Thiokol, I've found vinegar does just as well with none of the hazards the more acidic stuff presents, not to mention it's quite a bit cheaper.
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:38 PM
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I had good results (ahem) with REPEL 100 concentrated bug repellent. You know the kind where you squirt it in you hands and smear it every where? Works on wood finishes, too.
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:22 PM
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Be careful, some of those strong ones like blood and drano or sewer cleaning stuff will actually "etch" the metal and you do NOT want that.......
same goes for the coca cola (pepsi) they also remove chrome plating.......
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:41 PM
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Please send any blue you remove to me.
I'll pay the postage.
I'm always encountering stuff that needs it.......
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:53 PM
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it's in the mail Lee.
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:13 PM
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Sandblasting is the sure fire method of blueing removal.
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