Well everyone whats the best set up to get from keeping your doors from
Being kicked in? Dead bolts? Lexan triple locking storm door. Etc. ??

While they are not pretty, a steel door with steel frame from places like Lowe's or Home Depot helps. Take the screws that come with it to mount it to the house and throw them away. Get a dozen six to eight inch screws and put them deep into the frame of the house...all three sides.

Then, regular keyed door lock that is a deadbolt and another deadbolt at least 18" away [higher] from the first. It means you have to positively lock your door every time you leave but it is worth it. And from the inside, you just flip it locked. Don't get the cute vertical side windows next to your door...that just helps someone reach in and open your door.

You can do the same with Oak or Mahogany but it requires building up the frame really, really well so the dead bolts have a good, solid bite. Not as good as steel on steel.

A good solid core door or steel door. Good strong deadbolts. Ninety percent of the locks sold at big box home centers are NOT strong enough.

Your locks should be American made. Use a steel strike plate with three inch wood screws that reach the stud.

Someone, not sure of the company makes a storm door that has a security laminate film on the glass to prevent breakage.

Your local locksmith has items available that most people never even thought of. And most of these products are not that expensive and are well worth the money. But only if installed correctly!

Ask me how I know.

Someone wants in your house bad enough, steel door wont stop them. what will you do for the windows?

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Aim small miss small

I plan on getting steel doors and making them kick proof somehow. I'll have to modify them in my shop. Something like cross bolts on a safe door, 4 or 5 per side.

Windows are a problem. I don't really want to do burglar bars but probably will.

For now my bedroom door is kick proof, so I sleep well at night. Alarm to alert me if someone enters the house while I'm asleep.

As I'm sitting here typing this I have my model 58 at my side, and an STG-58 FAL about 4 feet away.

I'm not paranoid, I just have them out to admire them. I promise.

True. But there is a myriad of ways to slow them down long enough to arm and or retreat. We've discussed it many times here. Time is your friend.

Security Window Film in Stock - ULINE

Window & Glass Protection Films By ShatterGARD ShatterGUARD. Available In Your Hometown!!

If you have the cash, this is what you need.

Padlocks

https://www.pro-lok.com/p-700-ewp-120.aspx

Products

You can get Multi-Point Locking Systems for your door if you specify such from the higher end door manufacturers. These locking systems are of German Design and like those you see on a bank vault. They are produced in Wisconsin by HOPPE North America. These systems are very secure. I work with them frequently...

http://www.us.hoppe.com/gallery/file...oot%2016mm.pdf

This system is used in areas where Hurricanes are a problem and / or Forced Entry Resistance is required.

BTW, there is an ASTM / AAMA Standard for Forced Entry Resistance (FER) of doors and there is a rating level for those doors so listed.

Drew

No offense Drew, while they are strong, they are unrealiabe. I just replaced one of their locks a while back that was only two years old and saw very little use.

I've worked on these multi point locking systems many times. They are very expensive and don't hold up.

The biggest problem is with any settling or sagging of the door and or frame. Then the muli point locking system becomes a liability because it doesn't work properly.

And in many cases the workmanship is substandard often made in Asia but imported by way of Europe.

A good old fashion deadbolt is better because it is stronger and more reliable provided you buy a decent one.

Put doors up like you would find in county jail? Automated, steel, thick.

Being that I own a glass coating/tinting/security films coating business I feel that I can lend you a few words of advise from 23 years of experience.

1) Glass is the weakest point of entry to ANY structure.

2) If you have glass in your doors/next to your doors, at least have two (2) double dead bolt locks on your doors.

3) WHEN you install your new doors make sure to install new metal doors with metal frames and anchor your new door frames with AT LEAST 3" (4" is more than 50% stronger) stainless steel screws. Make sure to anchor the hinge side as well as the strike side. Anchor points should be no further apart than six inches.

4) If you MUST have glass in your doors then you MUST have a double dead bolt locking SYSTEM. One low and one in the center, minimun.

5) Pardon the plug, GET YOUR WINDOWS COATED WITH A SECURITY FILM. ALL OF YOUR WINDOWS, NOT JUST THE DOORS AND SIDE LIGHTS.

6) Don't scrimp on the security film for your glass. INSIST on a film that is of a micro layered construction and an anchoring system that uses a collagen based silicone structural adhesive (Caulk) that is installed a MINIMUM of 1/2" from the frame into the glass and a MINIMUM of 1/2" from the glass edge on to the frame (Think of a triangle wedge of caulk). Expect to pay AT LEAST $2.25 per linear foot of glass edge area (Width + height x 2 per window) plus the cost of the caulk for installation of the anchoring system. The film installation should run anywhere from $6.00 to $12.00 per square foot of material used to cover the glass being coated, depending on if you select a sun control security film or a strictly security (AKA Clear) security film.

If you have any questions about security films for your glass feel free to PM me.

Class III

I agree . A german shepard or two dont hurt either I live in Missouri, stand your ground is our right and i will do just that.

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Aim small miss small

Sad to think we have come this far.

Steel grates on all the windows in the house, ten locks on every door, the Ghetto look is heading your way.

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Doesn't hasta call me Johnson

At night I use bar jams I bought at Home Depot for about $20 each. If they can kick my door down now they deserve what they can get.

Three large dogs who hate the sight of people who do home invasions clawing viciously at the window next to the door seems to work well.

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Forum consigliere

Google "Residential security doors" and you will find many options.

Here is one: Door Acorazada at Eurosteel Solutions Ltd.

Lexan can be had in bulletproof thicknessess sufficient to stop a .44 magnum. So you can have side lights with the door too.

Damn the torpedoes break the windows. My house or for that matter most Florida houses the windows are so easy to get in through probably without breakage, sliding glass doors, heck with the front door. The only time mine is safe is during Hurricanes with 3/4" plywood bolted to the concrete walls.

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Still Running Against the Wind

During the construction of my house, I insisted on much heavier and thicker wood in the door frames. Then I added oak hardwood in the trim area where the deadbolts go, and longer screws throughout the door frames.

You can also mount the doors backwards, so they open out, rather than in. This makes them almost kickproof.

If the frame isn't properly anchored though, it won't matter

Our company makes door frame anchors for steel buck doors. For commercial use we use 0.187" diameter galvanized wire. For the detention industry (prisons) we use 0.250" diameter stainless steel wire.

The point is, that when it comes to intrusion, the detention industry has it all worked out.

Google "detention doors and frames". I guarantee that you will not be able to kick in any of those doors.

See: Detention Doors and Frames - Chief Custom Products

As said, the strongest front door wont matter if:

1. you have any windows in the house (who dont)
2. you have a sliding glass door (most of us do)
3. you have any sort of other door to the exterior (french door, etc)
4. you live in a wood frame house (you would be amazed how easy it is to break through a wood framed home)
5. you have a roof
6. you have a garage with a garage door

If someone wants in, they are coming in. You may be able to delay them a little, but a chainsaw and/or an axe is all they need to gain entrance through your roof in a surprisingly short amount of time.

No offense taken.... but obviously you must have been dealing with my competition...

I am actually contracted to Hoppe as an Architectural Specifier and Manufacturing Engineer. One of my many tasks is to integrate the Multi-points into existing door systems that previously did not have this capability. As such, I get to see first hand the side-by-side, before-after improvements in performance such as Forced Entry, Missile Impact, Air Infiltration, Uniform Structural Load. I see literally thousands of doors built per year with Hoppe's multi-points.

While it is true that the system is more complex than a simple mortise lock, I do not see widespread issues such as you describe. I have test doors in Bermuda and Winnipeg that I personally built in the 90's which are still soldiering on.

Actually, setting of the door and frame is a good reason to use a multi-point. But if the basic door system is not made with adjustable hinges to compensate for this, you can get into trouble with lighter weight door designs.

We produce nothing in Asia. In fact, most of our gear is built in the USA. That is not true of all multi-points however, that I admit.

Drew

I have a buddy who used to make doors. Big, thick mahogany doors for not just homes but business applications. He had all kinds of views on the subject. His favorites were the ones where they let him specify the frames. His biggest complaint was people expecting a 3/4" strip of softwood to resist someone kicking at it. A nice 2 1/4 or 2 1/2" door weighs a bunch. Cheapo hinges won't do the job. HE preferred ball bearing hinges, saying the punks who can't get a door to give on the lock side just start kicking at the hinge side. Its a tossup as to which is weaker.

And he had some Lexan panels that were supposed to be strong. One weekend he wanted me to come up to his place and see if "my" gun would puncture them.. Of course I told him it would, so he laughed. It was about 1" thick and pretty darn substantial. Interesting that the little Jet would do as well as other handguns. But he didn't expect the spectacular results of a handload in a .30-378. It was just your run of the mill milsurp AP projectile, moving at maybe 3500+ fps. When you get enough speed and energy, even Lexan gives. Pretty spectacularly.

But then punks aren't usually going to have exotic calibers at their disposal. They think they're well armed with a "nine" or a "foe-tee".

Every house has its weakness. I once saw a demonstration where a guy used a box cutter to get through a stud wall. Nothing there except the studs. Vinyl siding cuts away, as does the insulation board on the outside. The insulation in the stud cavity just pulls out, and the wall board inside kicks in. Modern home construction is mostly engineered to ease the building process, not make a home particularly secure. You can't paste on a secure door and expect to cover all the other sins of construction.

One of my buddies grew up in a house not far from here. In a former life it was a dairy barn. The walls are 3' thick stone. Go ahead, kick away and see where it gets you.

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Dick Burg

Slate siding and lath and plaster walls here.... I can sleep pretty soundly sometimes but the sledge hammer or axe coming through the wall may have me reaching for something that reaches out a little farther

Securing doors is important... but I agree with everyone who says windows. Why chance someone having a drop bar across their door when you can just throw a brick through the window or knock the sliding glass door off its track?

Anyone ever watch this show????????????

It's not real hard to break in, even with so called security.

Discovery Channel :: It Takes a Thief

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Still Running Against the Wind

Thanks Everyone. Its sad that we have to prepare ourselves this way. I know they can get in im just wanting to slow them down enough to be able to shove the shotgun down there throat and pull the trigger.

Good to know Drew. Thanks.

The one Hoppe lock I worked on failed. It was a mulitpoint cassette but wasn't being used as such. Just a deadbolt.

I called Hoppe and got a replacement but it wasn't covered under warranty which was a little disappointing. And to be honest the lock looked like every other one I've ever worked on. But this one didn't use a profile cylinder like others.

I like the concept. Especially the doors with the adjustable hinges to offset sagging or shifting. If I could only figure out how the adjustments work!

Whatcha gonna do when "whatever" is breached?

Plan, practise plan, repeat. Relax......wait for it calmly.

Hopefully it will never come.

But you're prepared!

It's simple... take a look at these links....

Installation:

http://www.us.hoppe.com//gallery/fil...nstall0809.pdf

Adjustment:

http://www.us.hoppe.com/gallery/file...stment0809.pdf

In fact, I'll share the super secret trouble shooting page with links to all sorts of interesting stuff on Hoppe Hardware:

HOPPE - Handle of excellence.

Sounds like you got a Frankendoor set up... I don't mind if you want to PM me for help. I might have a solution for you.

Drew

Thank you sir.

Glad to do it!

in southern states for windows use prickly pear cactus on exterior and smaller flying cacti on interior. Probably not a good thing for small children or nosey pets.

And this puts your hinges on the exterior making it a 10 second job to pop the hinge pins. If you splurge and get the "no-pop" hinges they're still on the exterior and a small angle grinder will make quick work of them. Let's face it...locks only stop lazy criminals, and thankfully most of them are lazy. As stated repeatedly, time is your friend when attempting to thwart a break in. In order to gain time, you have to add multiple layers of security. This means beefed up locks, reinforced structure around door frames, reinforced or protected windows, electronic security/surveillance, 4 legged security/surveillance, and overall target hardening.

All of this means different things to different people, as all situations vary. In my case living in a suburban environment near a city with well documented crime issues, I've taken the steps to make my house as difficult as possible to get into so that when the dopehead has to work for at least 2 minutes to get in, he either gives up and moves to my neighbor with little/no security, or bypasses me entirely for my neighbor with little/no security. The best fight you can ever be in is the one you never have. A friend in the security biz did an evaluation on my home and figured I have about 90-120 seconds of time before someone forces themselves into my home. More importantly, in that time the bad guy will be forced to make a LOT of noise. Bad guys hate noise and time. If someone is willing to spend the time and risk alerting a neighbor to get in I have additional measures in place, but this will protect me from all but the most determined bad guy.

As always, YMMV. Good luck, and be safe out there.

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I don't do serious very well.

There is nothing that will absolutely keep them out but there is something very simple I do that makes defeating the frame by human powered force incredibly hard. On an ordinary steel or better yet fiberglass clad door the week link is the jamb. Typically the door stays intact but the wooden frame splinters with the grain. When I install a new door or repair one that has been kicked in I attach a 4" x 48" strip of 3/8" CDX plywood to the back side of the jamb on the striker side using glue and screws. Plywood is flexible and equally tough in all directions. The simple 3/8" combined with tough 3-1/2" deck screws into the jack studs at the hinges and striker plated make the door frame incredibly tough. I have never had one of these door defeated through manual means though I have seen evidence of battering. In one case in a high crime area I repaired a previously kicked in door in this manner using the shattered jamb that I glued back together then reinforced with the plywood strip. Two days later the apartment was hit again. This time they did not gain entry even though there were batter marks all over the face of the door and the knob was sheared off the entry lock but the double cyl dead bolt held. They even used a 4 ft long pry bar we found and by evidence of the gouge marks but finally managed to break the backbone of the door itself but apparently cut themselves before they could manage to bend the door enough to gain entry. Why they choose not to use the window just two feet away is beyond me. We still had to use the key to open the door. I replaced the entire door unit this time with a fiberglass clad insulated door and a reinforced wooded door frame. They have had no further break-ins. Most burglers and invaders are not interested in working that hard to get into your house. A prolonged entry attempt exposes them to detection and high likelyhood of ingury or even apprehension. If they can't simply kick it in and enter they will opt for easier targets.

All you really need is this
36" Jumbo Pry Bar
Or this
MPXS-20 Twenty Piece Lock Pick Set - Metal Handles - One of our Best Sellers!

The fancy doors and so called security locks do not mean much. Locks only keep honest people honest.

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Livin’ Life From The Blindside

Here's my dead bolt. Well not actually a bolt but a 12 gauge "dead semi"!

Move to a better neighborhood.

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Dennis
He's got a gun!

I would put security screen doors on the outside.Shop Gatehouse 36-in x 81-in Gibraltar Black Steel Security Door at Lowes.com

Then a good quality deadbolt on the inner door. On a sliding door you can drill one or two holes in the frame of the sliding door and install self threading screws to keep the door from being lifted off the track. Also cut a wooden bar and lay it in the track.

On double hung windows you can drill through the lower into the upper where they overlap. (Don't go all the way through). Put a nail in the hole and no one can open the window from outside. If you want to open the window, pull out the nail.

There are prickly things you can plant in front of windows to make walking there uncomfortable. As others have said a loud dog is a big help.

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Luke 22:36

Bear and Skunkhome covered it pretty well for the average house.

I wanted to improve my security after two kick-ins, didn't have the budget at the time for expensive solutions.

I reinforced the replacement front steel door, which was installed in a wood frame, using the plywood/glue/long screw method.

The third kick-in took them over 6 minutes to get through the door, which actually bent inward, four linebacker sized guys, all tried the lock side, then one started on the center of the door and it sprung out of the frame.

We weren't home, between my neighbor that they woke up and the alarm, the PD arrived minutes after they fled, the neighbor said they weren't inside more than a minute (we got the 6+1 minute time frame from the 9-1-1 tape).

That door was replaced with a similar one, this time I replaced both apartment door (two family house) with solid cores and reinforced the frames the same as the front door.

After that we took the hint & bailed out of JC.

Cheap throwaway cameras are nice. Several years back I bought one with a flash attachment that I used to get pictures by lowering it down into air vents into old gold mines.
Use a weight to trigger it. Be creative.

When someone enters illegally and flash bulbs go off they might leave?

Man traps that injure or confine someone would be illegal. So far, we can still take pictures.

And put a strong cable across whatever doors you are concerned about. Connect some bungee cord to some slack in it. Basically brittle things break. You want it to give and spring back a little when they kick past the cheap lock.

Think what would be cheap and easy to replace. Spend the money you save on a big gun safe. Put bricks in the safe and put valuables in the attic.

Usually when police look at the dopers picture - they already know him.

If replacing the doors, would it make sense to have them open "out" like a commercial building instead of "in"? Harder to kick in a door that opens out. I wonder why residential doors are historically inward opening.

Save your money, sell your house, and move to a better neighborhood. If you need to sell your guns to make that happen, then do that too.

I have decorative double doors on the front of my house, and double doors are a real weak point for home security. I found the "Door Club," which are removable devices installed into your floor with one drilled hole. I have them installed on all four doors leading into my home. The double, and two singles.

We primarily use one door daily, so we leave the "Door Clubs" installed almost all of the time. The combination of the "Door Clubs, good deadbolts, extra long screws, reinforcement in different areas around the doors make for some real good added security for very little money. I feel much better at night, and when I am gone from home. It is a little inconvenient to lift the "Door Club" out to open the door when someone comes, but I have gotten used to it, and it is no big deal. You can reverse the "Door Club" if someone comes that you don't know, so that the door opens just a few inches, and the door remains "kick proof."

If you are interested there is a site on the web, and they are also sold on Ebay. I am really glad that I found them.

Best Wishes,
Tom

Japanese Fighting dogs.

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UNDER THE CONE OF SILENCE

Seems simple to add some passive deadbolts to the hinge side that engage the door frame when closed. And again, all commercial doors open "out" (I imagine for life safety reasons in the event of a fire) but this "obvious" security flaw doesn't seem to surface.

Remember - most break-ins do not occur through the front door (according to our PD). Thieves usually enter a window or sliding door usually located in the rear of your home. Just saying...........

El Cheapo solution:
a 50# bag of sand in a second plastic bag (to avoid leaking) sat at the bottom of the door.

I installed fiberglass over steel doors, double Medico dead bolts and extra steel door framing with hardened ball bearing hinges. You can pay alot of money for stuff but its best to work with professionals when it comes to security. The guys I had do my work usually did follow ups to break-ins, they learned alot. One of the little tricks someone learned in the Ghetto was that if the door failed to give to a firm kick at the lock side, go to the hinge side...often quite easy to kick one in from that angle. The fix is to install a couple of bolts with good sized heads, 1/2" is good. You just drill into the frame of the door, run the bolts into the frame, then mark where the bolts interfere with the closing of the door at the jamb, using a 5/8" drill bit, counter sink the area where the bolt heads contact the door, so that the door will close. Makes it nearly impossible to kick a door in at the hinge, a weak link in many wooden doors.
You need to beef up the door frame because the intruders often use a bottle jack and steel bar, placing it between the door frame near the dead bolt, even with a little 1 ton bottle jack can easily force the door jamb open enough to allow entry.
If they want in bad enough you can't keep them out, you wont be there, your dog will die...all you can do is keep the honest people honest or slow down somebody hell bent on destruction.

I hate it when they use a forklift to raise one side of the house.
(attempt at humor)

I did read about a guy who had his expensive sports car stolen a couple of times.
He started chaining the front bumper to a large tree in front yard. He walked out a few mornings later to find the front bumper unbolted, with both car and bumper still there. A note on windshield said they will come back for it when they want it again.