HaveSmithwillTravel
Well-known member
Got a second gun safe that is now on a wood floor. What is the best way to anchor it to the flooring and sub floor? There is a 3' crawl space with supports under the safe. Thanks
Gun safe anchor
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Hillbilly77
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If the above menioned lag bolts won't work, if you can get to the space under the subfloor, it's hard to beat regular old nuts & bolts with fender washers. I'd say at least 3/8" bolts.
doublesharp
Well-known member
If you could straddle a floor joist with the holes in the floor of your safe and then put some long bolts into a crossways 2x6 that would secure it.
mkk41
US Veteran
Get some long strips of steel , say 3ft long by 6 to 8 in wide and at least 1/4in thick , and use them under the floor boards. Maybe some lengths of 3in wide structural channel. Use at least 1/2 dia , Gr.5 or 8 bolts. And use Nylok nuts so they cannot be turned without a wrench holding the opposite end.
I simply bolted my 3 Sentry safes together with 8 bolts each. Ya simply can't get it outta the room or down the stairs now.
I simply bolted my 3 Sentry safes together with 8 bolts each. Ya simply can't get it outta the room or down the stairs now.
This ^^^^^
I have installed a few for customers using this method. And I've done it myself.
Position the safe were you want it. Drill holes through the safe holes all the way. Put the bolts in. Then use Vice Grips and lock them onto the bolt heads. Go under and put the nuts and washers on. When you turn the nut the vice grips will hold the bolt head in place.
TWO THINGS:
When drilling through carpet, the carpet may RUN in any direction and can do so for several feet! The only way to prevent this is to mark the holes, move the safe out of the way, drill a SMALL hole through the carpet into the floor and STOP. Use a razor knife to cut a patch out of the carpet where your hole is. Then finish drilling the hole all the way through at the desired size.
And use lock washers and or Loctite. I saw one safe that had the nuts come loose. The owners didn't know why but we speculated that simply walking by the safe or vacuuming may have caused it.
Much easier with two people. But I don't always have that option.
Hillbilly77
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This ^^^^^
I have installed a few for customers using this method. And I've done it myself.
Position the safe were you want it. Drill holes through the safe holes all the way. Put the bolts in. Then use Vice Grips and lock them onto the bolt heads. Go under and put the nuts and washers on. When you turn the nut the vice grips will hold the bolt head in place.
TWO THINGS:
When drilling through carpet, the carpet may RUN in any direction and can do so for several feet! The only way to prevent this is to mark the holes, move the safe out of the way, drill a SMALL hole through the carpet into the floor and STOP. Use a razor knife to cut a patch out of the carpet where your hole is. Then finish drilling the hole all the way through at the desired size.
And use lock washers and or Loctite. I saw one safe that had the nuts come loose. The owners didn't know why but we speculated that simply walking by the safe or vacuuming may have caused it.
Much easier with two people. But I don't always have that option.
Also, as was posted above, an extra piece of 2x6 placed perpendicular to the floorboards adds more strength and support.
I forgot to mention that in my first post.
Also a good call on Loctite and/or lock washer/locknuts.
mkk41
US Veteran
Or weld the nuts to the back-up plate?
Hillbilly77
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jaykellogg
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Has the safe got provisions to bolt it to the wall? Easier to fix a wall later than a hardwood floor
OP
HaveSmithwillTravel
Well-known member
This safe has the option to also use a lag to a wall stud. I thought I might locate the stud and safe hole first then anchor to the floor. I like the suggestion of a plate of wood or steel under the floor between the joist. Starting to get a good idea of what I want to do.
mkk41
US Veteran
With enough time and planning and the right tools , any safe can be defeated. A friend had his cleaned out when the thief went thru the side of his very expensive safe with a portable plasma cutter.
Yes but that's not the point. Why make it easy for them?
mrsmithfrompa
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i would go below ans cut a steel plate the size of the bottom of your safe, pre-drill the holes the same as whats on the safe and bolt straight through the floor and the steel plate. if the safe is tall and you just lag or bolt it in the wood, the leverage of the safe alone will make it easy to tear the whole floor up.....ideally you want to set into concrete with the floor plate studs concreted into the pad, then mount the safe.
riverrat38
US Veteran
The stronger the installation, the more force that will be required to defeat it. The greater force will cause more extensive damage to the structure. Lag bolts into the floor joists hold well if they are 3/8" by full length to get nearly through the joists. Just make sure that you are not weakening the joists too much in the area where they will get the highest load, from a heavy gun safe. It helps if the safe is near a wall or support post. Or, the joists can be doubled in the area of the install. You might need more support under the safe. They can be much heavier than the floor is designed for.
Best,
Rick
Best,
Rick
Alnamvet68
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I use carriage bolts and tighten them up tight enough to pull the heads up into the the plywood. It is most important that the safe cannot be put on its back. Thats how crooks break the doors open. Good luck!
