Simple question which do you think is a more efficient lubricant for a pistol Oil (Generic Gun Oil) or Grease (Generic White Lithium Grease)

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Retired Career Security Guard

Rem Oil for me, has Teflon in it.....

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Only difference Fool/Mule-ears

I tried a few different greases on Auto's but dislike all the crud & unburned powder the grease picks up while shooting. I went back to my tried & true Rig #2 Oil. The only place I still use grease is on my M1 Garand.

If it spins, oil it, if it slides, grease it.

At this risk of fostering misinformation:

Here's some more commentary on this subject

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

My bad, yes the pistol in question is a semi auto handgun.

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Retired Career Security Guard

CS9 Chiefs Special slide recoil issue

Got my answer, post 8 this^ thread

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Retired Career Security Guard

Hold on while I get some popcorn and a beer.

I have a tub of white grease from any auto store and put it in an infant medicine syringe I use on my Sigs and Glocks. White grease on a black gun makes it easy to tell if you've missed a spot, just use sparingly in the right places.

A little dab 'll do ya.

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Isaiah 41:10

I would use both, each in the appropriate location.

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Can my S&W Mdl 10 shoot +P

Neither one..

It's easy to see why "lube threads" keep showing on the board...
because you haven't used the best.

Oh, well..
For those who demand the best... and know the difference...

T.S. Moly Lubricants Inc.

The "best" sure doesn't come cheap!

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No good deed goes unpunished.

Crisco always worked for me

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Forum consigliere

Hair, food, guns...what's not to like?

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No good deed goes unpunished.

Moly paste or moly anti-seeze because both have a higher percentage(%) of only in them over the moly grease. Example you take the 1911 bare slide and frame and apply only on the frame rails now run the slide by hand to burnish the only into both moving parts. I apply only on the barrel and barrel bushing, full length guide rod and recoil spring. On the barrel lugs. On the trigger sear. The trigger pull will lessen up to 50% and more as the only burnishes into the pores of the metal. I lube everything with only

Buttered popcorn? Awesome....

Butter is undoubtedly the best popcorn lube.

Show me an owners manual that says "Grease lightly"

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Still Running Against the Wind

General rule, if it slides, grease it. If it pivots, oil it.

Though of late, I have discovered an interesting powder coating.
Teflon slip black.
I coated my barrel, bushing, guide rod and railways in the slide of my 1911 with it.
It took some wet sanding to refit the coated parts, but I have since run the top end essentially dry of grease and oil.
The result is a tight action with a liquid smooth operation.
It's also consistent.
Start to finish, it remains tight and fluid first mag to the last piece of brass in the bucket.

This was one of my odd experiments. It turned out better than anticipated.
If you have the means to powder coat, and the skills to refit the parts.
Try it.

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it just needs more voltage

Ok let me go back and give you all of the information that I should have given in my first post.

First, I'm on a budget, I can't afford "the best" what I have to work with is White lithium grease from NAPA and Starrett light tool oil or motor oil. Those are my options

The gun is a semiautomatic (M&P shield FWIW)

My primary concern is that this gun is exposed to a lot of sweat and I don't want rust to even get a foothold.

I carry this gun 6 out of 7 days so every week it gets at least a wipe down and a lube. (So if I choose grease it won't sit there for a month and get hard)

Most of the time I carry this gun in my pocket; sometimes in my shirt pocket when I'm riding my bike (sweat) Most of the time in my back pocket while I'm walking around at work after riding my bike (sweat) and the rest of the time in my hoodie pocket while I'm walking the dogs (not as much sweat but almost no airflow)

In the winter the gun will be in my inner coat pocket for most of the day while I go indoors to outdoors (condensation).

I almost always carry the gun with the muzzle straight down (oil will creep because of gravity where grease wouldn't).

As far as I can tell those are all the relevant facts.

Have at it.

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Retired Career Security Guard

I'm not an authority on lubricants but what is "only" as a lubricant? I take it this is an additive to a grease type lubricant?

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Quando omni flunkus moritati.

Oil or grease when it wears out you'll replace it any way.

Using moly my great, great, great, great, great grandchildren will enjoy the seed that great, great, great, great, great grandpa planted.

What does this mean? I've used molycoat as a lube on Strippit Turret Presses before and it got funky after a day or two

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Retired Career Security Guard

Ditto!!!!!

I use both oil and grease.

I have several "special" firearm lubricants, they all seems to work well.

After several years I've found that a quart of Mobil 1 10w-30 (If I remember correctly) and a tube of inexpensive lithium grease will do the job just as well, cost you less money (more ammo!), and will last forever!

Of course, your milage may vary.

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Molon Labe!

I use Lubriplate Gun formulation on the rails of my semi's and Hoppe's every where else.

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Lounge Lizard Extraordinaire

My thoughts?

I've used a number of different oil (and CLP) & grease type lubricants on firearms over the years.

Still do, depending on application and the conditions in which the gun is going to be used. Besides, I've got a bunch of different products I've accumulated over the years. I've probably got products on my bench, or downstairs, which have been re-formulated or changed by their manufacturers (or the company may not even be in business any longer).

Oils/CLP's can run, wick off & evaporate (usually the carrier liquids). They can migrate to places you don't require them to be, or they shouldn't be (especially if applied in excessive amounts). I dislike having pants or car seasts stained by migrating/wicking oils. On the other hand, they can also spread along friction areas as may be needed.

Greases tend to remain in place. This usually means you have to deliberately apply them to everywhere they need to go. It can also be handy if you're going to be carrying the gun in changing weather conditions, such as in fluctuating temperature & humidity conditions.

Greases don't seem to require "refreshing", under some conditions, as often as oil-type lubes.

Personally, I dislike using any greases that can burn off or harden under heat and heavy usage, or too easily congeal in colder temperatures.

I dislike when some greases accumulate grit and try to turn into lapping compounds. Some environmental and operating conditions may favor another type of lube, or at least a different level of lube & lube and lubrication practices. Mission-specific, so to speak.

I'll sometimes use a "slurry" of a lightweight grease and oil/CLP. (It can be messy if you overdo it, but it'll keep some guns running under hard use.)

I don't shill specific makes/brands of lubes.

I do tend to prefer to use lubes of either type that have been specifically branded and sold for use on firearms, and I like how some of the newer products are less toxic (especially if I'm going to be spending a lot of time inspecting, cleaning & lubricating not only my won guns, but those belonging to the agency and other owners ).

I won't get in to denigrating specific product brands, but I've not been particularly surprised when I've started to hear how some guys have fallen for some advertising and tried some super product, and then discovered it wasn't the be-all, end-all ... and didn't eliminate the need for the user to actually know how to clean, lube and maintain their guns.

To sum up, I use different lubricants - and lube practices - depending on the guns involved, their planned usage and the conditions in which they're going to be used.

I also tend to follow the gun company's recommendations for lubrication, and I read the labels of the products to make sure I'm using them in the correct manner.

READ THE LABELS folks.

Oh yeah, before someone may ask ... WD-40 isn't among my gun lubricants. I used to use it in one of the rinses (to remove water) when sparingly using a sonic cleaner for some really dirty work guns, but I save it for door hinges and other household or automotive uses. I've seen it seemingly cause more problems than it solved on some handguns, but that was probably due to the manner and amount of it being used by the individuals.

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

Scroll down to the bottom of this thread (yes this one)

There are but a few of the many, many lube or snake oil threads

Gather up your popcorn and beverage of choice and read on. The longest one is this one:

Best gun lubricant

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Still Running Against the Wind

Garand's get grease, everything else gets oil. Nuff said

James

What he said!

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Music/Sports/Beer fan

I'm a big fan of Break Free CLP (Cleans, Lubricates, Protects) for all of my firearms. I was introduced to this product while in the Army, and I figure if it's good enough for Uncle Sam, it's good enough for me. By the way, I also use a little bit of RIG (Rust Inhibiting Grease) on the recoil slide of my revolvers.

Regards,

Dave

Moly coat is different. I use the moly anti-seeze.

My spell check changes moly to only.

I like Hoppes gun oil or 3in1 oil.

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Carpriver.

I use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil, works better than anything else I've used in 40 years. I've tried them all. The second best would be Amsoil.
Stay away from anything Remington. My friend wipes down all his guns with RemOil. wipes..they've all got rust on them. Buy one quart of Mobil 1 and you and all your guns are set for a lifetime.

I'm not sure what constitutes "hard use" but I'm pretty sure my guns don't see it.

My biggest concern is more rust protection than anything else because this gun in particular gets sweated on a lot.

I'm concerned that any oil that I used ( I mentioned Starrett because that's what I happen have) would evaporate due to the heat in my pocket and leave the gun unprotected against rust.

I guess the real solution would be to clean and lube more often than once a week.

That said I used the white lithium grease tonight with a drop of oil on top as Fastbolt suggested.

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Retired Career Security Guard

Grease is oil in a soap solution to hold it when cycling of a machine becomes too fast and operation gets too hot. Oil is best for a pistol.

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Front sight and squeeze

Spell check or predictive text? No blaming the software allowed. I too had no clue what you were talking about. Edit, edit, edit.

Given the slide rails on a semiautomatic pistol are the same as the ways on a mill or lathe I wonder if way lube would work.

(Just hypothetically I'm not going to go out and buy way lube)

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Retired Career Security Guard

You can use it on your gun but don't ever use it on your "GUN" (it's shortening)

I use any cheap non detergent oil. I never had a firearm fail because I used cheap oil. I do not see how Mobil 1 would benefit a firearm unless it is a firearm that fires numerous rounds constantly like a AR15 and gets hot due to friction. Me personally I think it is a waste of money but if some of you like it and think it works then I guess keep using it.

James

Moly, moly, moly, moly. Is an extreme pressure lubricant.

Eliminates wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
Doesn't attract dirt
Stays were you put it.

Mobil 1 failed in the rocket motorcycles the camshaft wore out when using it.

The name of the way lube your looking for is Mobil Vactra. It's very tacky. It's the best ever chainsaw bar & chain oil. We used vactra in building cnc machines. During assembly and for living them. It might be too tacky for guns and not for cold weather use.

When hunting/camping you can use some grease from your homefries.

Huh??????????

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Retired Career Security Guard