Can I use Break Free CLP as a penetrant for a water shut off valve for my toilet, or should I use WD-40?

Thanks!

Wd 40 is cheaper

If whatever you try first doesn't work, try PB Blaster.

__________________
Not in jail.

I recommend replacing the valve.

Both of the previously mentioned PB blaster and WD40 are my choices too because they're readily available.

Two other choices that you may have in your gun cleaning supplies are Kroil, and a product that you can make, called Ed's Red. Do a Google search for Ed's Red.

To paraphrase the DUKE some one should pilgram --someone should --But i won't


Yes I will
WD -40 is not a penetrating solvent ...
it is a Water Displacement fluid
Get Kroil --PB blaster ,or make ed's red
let it soak in -once in a while tap with a hammer, backing up the opposite side with another hammer
GOOD LUCK

Liquid wrench, has loosened a few frozen nuts and bolt's for me..Never tried it on your situation...

PB Blaster works great,We called it liquid Torch at work.
But I would just replace the Valve with a quality one to prevent future problems.

Use the Liquid Wrench and loosen the packing nut a bit.

I like Kroil first and PB Blaster second. If I did not replace it with a well made unit, that is what I would likely try. WD-40 is not really a good lubricant. WD = Water Displacement..... I know people love the stuff, I use it too, but there are some uses that are much more suited to the product than others.

Ed's Red is amazing. All I use for a gun cleaner and I have a jar in the garage to use as a penetrant and parts cleaner.

__________________
Dave

Is this valve an angle stop? If so, I recommend you replace it with the new style that's only 1/4th a turn from full open to full off. You can cycle this once awhile and have no more trouble.

That's a ball valve and it's available in straight as well as angle and the compression one works great, no need to get involved soldering in a tight space like behind a toilet.

Careful Googling Ed's Red, you might end up putting hot sauce on your valve.

__________________
Back to back World War Champs.

and if its a good sauce, the valve will be corroded away, making replacement easier.

seriously .... cough up the $10 - $15 for a new valve.
Water damage is several orders of magnitude more costly.

__________________
it just needs more voltage

I thought those solvents were for rust.

Your problem is probably from calcium deposits, so just replace the valve. You may be able to re-use it if you soak it in CLR for a few hours, but I can't hold it that long.

Allow me to elaborate, I need to turn off the water shut off valve that supplies the Toilet.

We will replace it, but I need to rotate it to turn it off. I can't rotate it because it is frozen, and I don;t want to force it.

The Valve to the Toilet is leaking onto the water supply valve, and I think that is what has frozen it.

So we will probably need to replace both.

My Plumber told me to spray it with WD-40 as he said it will take the moisture away and it will loosen up the crud.

I will try that, along with a (Very) light tap from the hammer AFTER the WD-40 has been on there for a while.

I will also add that many folks have mentioned Ed's Red, and I will look into what that is all about too :-)

The easiest solution (assuming there's enough pipe to work with) is to cut off the old valve with a tubing cutter and go with all new parts from there.Saves a ton of time and aggravation

How about shutting off the main?

__________________
Back to back World War Champs.

Might have to do that.

Buy the best water shut off valve. the Shark bite & replace it... it easily connects to copper, CPVC, PVC & will have a fitting for your supply line to the toilet already there. You might have to replace the little chrome line & upgrade to CPVC or copper to join the shark bite too, but there is one set up already to hook up to the existing water supply line. The Chinese made cruddy water valves that are commonly sold at hardware stores & lumber yards wear out/go bad in 2 or 3 years...... so far none of the shark bites we've put in need to be replaced in any rental home we have. Cost is about #.00 per fitting over the import Chinese crud. big deal. Most better hardware stores & lumberyards now carry the shark bites here.

__________________
be safe,enjoylife,journey well

Do what the rich folks do-call a plumber.

__________________
Forum consigliere

Stole my thunder, JH. Others might work, these two will work.

I've got a similar problem brewing and thought about lubing the valve. But if there's anything rubber or plastic in the valve the petroleum in the lube will attack it. NO/YES?

there's a pair of washers in a gate valve style shutoff.

I heard a long time ago WD 40 would make plastic soft and pulpy. Don't know first hand, but I do not use it on anything that has a plastic component.
If you are replacing that cut-off anyway, you may as well go straight to a main valve.

If you live in a city, some do not allow non-plumbers to kill the water supply at the city property, and for many older homes, like mine, have no other main cut-off.

Perhaps I should say SOME cities DISCOURAGE the practice by homeowners.

As the "lawing" man from Cajun country said, sometimes it is time to call in old "Joe" the plumber.

Joe, upon handing his plumbing bill to a Doctor was met with the huffy retort,...."good heavens man,I'm a DOCTOR, and I don't make that kind of money"! Joe said, "yeah,well when I was a DOCTOR, I didn't either".

__________________
wanna do right-- not right now

There should be a main shutoff where the line enters the house and one preceding it at the street/meter.

After you get through this repair make it a yearly habit to exersise all the valves in your house once a year. You'll thank yourself later.

I'm a plumber but not your plumber. Or at least your kind of plumber. I mostly do filtration,

I've never seen a penetrant that will free up an old valve. Some of the better old ones can be repacked. But not to often. Usually the gaskets are rotted as well as the internal metal and once you mess with it you have a leak. Be prepared.

That said call a licensed plumber that is willing to do that you don't want to do or shouldn't be doing. While he's there have him check the rest of the valves and fix what's needed.

It's cheap insurance. You really don't want water damage.

__________________
Dum vivo cano

WD40 is only good for the retailer because people are attracted to the pretty colors. WD 40 will gum up.

Think about PB BLAST
after you think about it, buy PB BLAST
after that always keep PB BLAST on your shelf
after that if you run out but another can of PB BLAST
I use PB BLAST

I'll work on anything, except plumbing! I hate leaks, and I hate getting into one of those projects and getting stuck or making things worse.

Most plumbers are worth every penny you pay them in saved aggravation. Now, those flat rate book plumbing companies are another story...

Hi How I would handle it is if you have a basement or crawl space Turn off the main where it enters and install gate or ball shut offs in the branch lines So you can turn off the water to a bathroom or kitchen completely then replace the separate valves as needed Most are threaded on a sweat to IPT fitting look carefully for threads where pipe is attached to valve use Teflon tape on the threads when installing new one Where the 3/8 supply lines attach are a compression fitting and you maybe be able to reuse old 3/8 supply lines [check to be sure threads are the same No experience with the shark bite but hear that they simple install if you have enough pipe and room to cut into branch lines That way you put new valve before old ones and don't have to turn off the old ones Only replace the ones that leak on the floor Best Keith

still say to get the Shark bite with a 3/8" supply compression fitting , install that (after turning off either main house valve or another valve) & reattaching the toilet supply line, I like the braided stainless supply lines, the valve is about $6.00, same for the stainless toilet supply line, as stated above, if you care to use Teflon tape. This set up will last for years & years longer than anything else... never cheap out on plumbing, electrical or natural gas......... you only need to do it correctly 1 time if you go 1st rate...... on any of the 3, especially gas & electric it's dumb to cheap out, on plumbing it's inconvenient.. like putting in cheap controls in bathroom sinks or showers. you'll just have to replace them in 2 years..........if you go with the cheap.

__________________
be safe,enjoylife,journey well

I think it's critical that you find the main and have the ability to shut the house off in the event that the toilet valve replacement goes bad. This might be a good time to test that the main holds too. A call to the local water department might be in order for a replacement.
The joy of home ownership.

__________________
Back to back World War Champs.

My vote is with Kroil. It's what most power plants use.

__________________
Memory of Randy Freas-Rimfired