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Old 06-01-2015, 12:35 PM
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Default Spark plug cleaning

Reading another posting reminded me of something. I clean spark plugs with a propane torch, and have for a long time. About the only thing I change spark plugs on is my lawnmower. When it starts running a little rough, or gets difficult to start, I remove the plug, clamp it in a vise, get out the propane torch, and turn the flame on the electrode area for awhile. It burns off all the carbon and it works like new. I have two spark plugs I alternate, and I suppose each has been torched dozens of times. Does anyone else do this?
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:38 PM
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No, plugs are cheap
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:42 PM
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Propane is much cheaper, and I don't have to go to the auto parts store.
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:53 PM
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Wire wheel.. on an old Sears washing machine motor
Check the gap and good to go..
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWalt View Post
Propane is much cheaper, and I don't have to go to the auto parts store.
You may end up doing the job twice, and going to the store anyway. Around here they do not limit me to buying one plug at a time, so I always have at least one new one in my box.

A carbon fouled plug indicates a problem. Either a bad plug (internal short or crack) or a poorly adjusted fuel system. Either needs to be fixed. On a properly tuned engine, plugs do not carbon foul, and rarely foul from gas additives with the new EPA approved gas now being sold. This is the same gas that runs new cars for over 50,000 miles without changing the plugs .
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Old 06-01-2015, 02:50 PM
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Interesting idea, DWalt.
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Old 06-01-2015, 02:57 PM
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Just a folded piece of emery cloth gently over the electrode, a squirt of CRC spray on the 2-cycle plugs and good to go.
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Old 06-01-2015, 03:11 PM
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I use a spark plug cleaner. Had one since forever.
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Old 06-01-2015, 03:17 PM
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I use a spark plug cleaner. Had one since forever.
The problem with a spark plug cleaner using abrasive dust is that some remains behind on the plug unless you flush it well or blast it out with compressed air afterward. If any remains when you screw the plug into the cylinder head, it can damage the piston and cylinder wall.
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Old 06-01-2015, 03:36 PM
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As someone who owns and uses several British Seagull outboards I own and use a 12 volt spark plug cleaner.
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Old 06-01-2015, 03:42 PM
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I have never used a propane torch to clean plugs.

I usually use a small stainless steel brush, point file or emery and re-gap.

If that doesn't solve the problem, I reach for a replacement.

I'll think about propane for a while. . then probably forget to try it.
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Old 06-01-2015, 04:34 PM
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I have a air powered one that my Dad gave me years ago.

I also have a collection of fouled plugs that one day I might get around to cleaning. Probably not though. I quit cutting my grass some time back.

I've been thinking about running my mower out to the curb. I need the space plus it's a 1979 and has taken to oil fouling. That's one of the reasons I quit cutting. The other is, I'm to lazy.

My neighbors guys can do it in minutes where as it takes me most of the day. I can think of better things to do.
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:10 PM
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Yes, I absolutely do use a torch to clean spark plugs. Interesting that someone finally brought this up...it has been a while since I worked as an auto mech, but back in the day I had this gal I was dating with a T-Bird. Thsi was in the 80's. She flooded the thing and it would not start. I fooled around with it for about two days and finally asked one of the older mechs for help. First thing out of his mouth was "did you put new plugs in it???" Nope..."Well, once you flood these newer plugs they are no more good and have to be replaced."
I followed that rule for several years until finally one day I flooded my 3 wheeler and it wouldn't start. it was an odd ball plug that had to be ordered so I tried "drying" it out with a propane torch. It worked, and I been doing it ever since. As I understand it, they changed something in the porcelain insulator and it absorbed gasoline and this causes the plug to short out and not fire.
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:21 PM
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Then there's this:
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:23 PM
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Spark plugs seem to last a very long time on my lawnmowers. I can't recall the last time I replaced them, but it was not much of an expense.

As for automotive spark plugs, I have never tried to clean them. My father and grandfather did, having lived through the Great Depression and all. IIRC, they used a small file and / or some sandpaper. This was back in the days when you were supposed to change plugs, points, and condenser every 10,000 miles. They would even file the points until they wore away all the contact material!
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:47 PM
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My generator will foul a plug once in a while. Usually after I have let it sit unused for a while. I have a bead blast cabinet, and it only takes a few moments to clean it up. Flush with carb cleaner and it's good as new.
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:43 PM
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Well, this discussion got me started on an internet search. Appears the idea has been around for a long time, going back to the Model T days (but with a blowtorch). One of the more complete discussions in one of the car forums follows. And I thought I invented the propane torch trick.

"Here is how I clean sparkplugs. I know it is effective because it has worked time and time again on old motorcycles with marginal energy inductive ignitions.

A "fouled-out" sparkplug usually fails to light off the charge in the cylinder due to conductive carbon deposits that have formed on the center electrode's insulator. If the ignition system powering the sparkplug is inductive, rather low energy, AND the high-tension side is connected to the center electrode (no air gap like in a distributor), then plug fouling can be an issue due to conduction between the coil secondary and ground (through the conductive carbon fluff).

Simply roast the center electrode's insulator - no plug disassembly required, with the flame of a propane torch (NOT an oxy/acetylene torch!) until the carbon deposits burn away. Hold the sparkplug with needle-nosed pliers on the threaded end where the plug wire attaches. When the hot carbon begins to burn away, you'll see yellow/red flames and the center insulator will lighten. If the sparkplug is a very cold one like you'd find in a motorcycle engine, by the time you get the center electrode insulator hot enough to burn off the conductive carbon the threads will be glowing red and the plating may be discolored somewhat.

Allow to air cool for one hour on some non-combustible surface, like your driveway. Use no brushes or solvents except for cleaning up the threads if you had not done that before the torch roast. Check/regap plug, add anti-seize to the threads if you are so inclined and reinstall.

This has worked great for me - your results may vary.

Seth"
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:59 AM
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If my thread on changing the bike is what made you think of how you clean your plugs ,the ones that came out of the bike we're not worth cleaning. For normal low compression stuff like the lawnmower or Tue weed eater,some Emery paper folded over has always worked well for me. The plugs for the bike are dual electrode and the center section was pretty worn out. Ill try to get some pics of them tomorrow...
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWalt View Post
The problem with a spark plug cleaner using abrasive dust is that some remains behind on the plug unless you flush it well or blast it out with compressed air afterward. If any remains when you screw the plug into the cylinder head, it can damage the piston and cylinder wall.
I agree with this and that is the reason after I use my spark plug cleaner I wash out the spark plug with either Berryman B-12 or Brake Clean and blow dry. Never a problem.
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:18 PM
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So here are the plugs I took out of the bike. $15 a plug was the best I found..but to me it's better to spend the money than leave them in and have a head come off an electrode and destroy the engine.

project small 6.jpg
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:04 AM
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i bought a lawnmower in 1976 from k mart. 3.5 briggs motor. i change the oil every year and it's a 3 pull starter. the original plug is still in it and it's never had a spark plug wrench on it. if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Old 06-03-2015, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
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i bought a lawnmower in 1976 from k mart. 3.5 briggs motor. i change the oil every year and it's a 3 pull starter. the original plug is still in it and it's never had a spark plug wrench on it. if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Lawn mower engines were probably made better back then. The lifespan of my lawnmowers is usually about 10 years, and I change oil every spring. I now have two (at two different locations, both with B&S engines), the older one dating from 2003, the newer one from 2010. Not that they wouldn't run all season on the same plug, but I usually clean the plugs of each at least once at the start of the season and also when they become difficult to start or start running a little rough. The plugs will have fluffy carbon deposits on them in the electrode area every time. The propane torch burns all that off.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:15 AM
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I let mine soak in gasoline overnight and use a little steel brush and a little fine sandpaper on them to clean them and they are good as new. I usually have a spare to use while I am cleaning the old one and use it as my spare and keep switching them out.

More often than not it is a dirty air filter and not a bad plug causing the erratic running and difficulty in starting.

Plugs these days are much better than the old plugs, and keeping a clean air filter will make the plug last a lot longer also.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
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Lawn mower engines were probably made better back then.
Amen. They had THROTTLES back then.

I bought a new mower around 2010 as well. It has never run right. Too lean and too low rpm.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:18 AM
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I used to take them to the wire wheel brush and clean it, to iclude the threads. Then a folded piece of emory cloth to clean the contact and the electrode, then back in.
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