Range day "Why that is?"

Most outings I drop a Ruger MKII in the bag because they are great guns. A couple outings ago, after cleaning a MKII Standard, I wet up the bolt with Castrol 0-20 full synthetic oil from a bottle on top of my safe. 2 outings later the gun is choking badly, not ejecting/chambering. Peeked inside and it was dry, like no slip at all. On top of that there were chunks of "charcoal briquets" in the action. The stuff seems to absorb the soot into chunks unlike Breakfree which forms a "dark emulsion" but keeps on ticking. Just wanted to share this. (Pic is old but shot this pair again). Joe

Gun oil is gun oil. Automotive grade engine lubricating oils aren't gun oils. There is a a reason for this. What kind of temperatures have you been having in south Florida?

Perhaps because it doesn't work like break free. Have been using full synthetic on my Mark 2 for a very long time. It gets put on clean parts, then wiped all off. The pistol can go 6 months without needing cleaning again. Put on an excessive amount, and it may float off grime from all the hard to reach places, but not dissolve it.

"...I wet up the bolt..." - Firearms --- If you think you're not using enough lubricant you're probably already using too much.

I put automotive oil in my crankcase, not my firearm's, I have been using Break Free for longer than I can remember. For long term storage I have a cotton rag saturated with Rig that I wipe my firearm's with before I put them away.

I've been using mobil-1, I'm - on the same quart for 15+ years. I don't put that much oil, so...

The version I heard in my Army days is too much lubricant on a firearms attracts and holds grit and debris.

I just used what was in reach, won't happen again. I always try to use "just enough" Breakfree. This gun needs pretty wet to reliably cycle bulk pack Federal .22's. Powder charges go from almost squib to bright flash violent.

Oh yeah, I'm not in South Florida, 62* on the firing line this morning. Joe

I've used both (Mobil-1 5W-30 and CLP), in different applications, and have never had an issue with either. Interesting result from your lubing. Is this the first time you've used the Castrol? Could it have all run off since you lubed it? Gonna try it again, just for science ;-)?

pharmer said:

I just used what was in reach, won't happen again. I always try to use "just enough" Breakfree. This gun needs pretty wet to reliably cycle bulk pack Federal .22's. Powder charges go from almost squib to bright flash violent.

Oh yeah, I'm not in South Florida, 62* on the firing line this morning. Joe

Click to expand...

Is the Federal ammo you used particularly dirty?

1) Not gonna try again, have a pint bottle, a 10oz aerosol and a 2oz spray BreakFree in the range bag. None in reach that day and I'm lazy.
2) Bulk Federal 36 gr plated HP seems to be dirty although it does have less duds in the 525 "commercial" box as opposed to the 550rd WalMart boxes. I'm getting them right at $.06/rd dropped on the porch. Joe

Been using Break Free for decades .

I must have over 40 different oils on my shop shelves. At least 15-17 are "gun oils" but have used BF CLP and G96 Synthetic pretty much exclusively as of the last few years. BF CLP is excellent! G96 Synthetic (yellow, red and white bottle) lubricates & protects just as well as BF however I find the G96 Syn. actually does clean a bit better and therefore just ordered a 1 liter bottle of the G96.

I have only used motor oil on a gun when no gun oil was available at the time I needed it. In a pinch I'm sure it will work but as I am not a chemist or oil engineer, I would think the two type of oils are different so I use gun oil on guns and motor oil in cars.

With black powder firearms petroleum by products are a no-no. Mineral oil is acceptable, and I know is considered by many to be a petroleum product. Water soluble mineral oil is a super patch lubricant and is the foundation of my cleaning solution used between each shot. I used to lubricate my black powder locks and actions with Ballistol or on occaison Breakfree, an old friend left behind a can of Sperm Whale oil, I use that only on locks and actions, a little goes a long way. Old timers used to render bear grease down to a fine oil, Ive done that as well. Its about as effective as mink oil. Most of the natural lubricants fall short in very cold weather, I have not noticed any problems with Sperm Whale Oil.
All of my modern firearms are lubed sparingly with modern lubricants like Breakfree and Ballistol as well. I have a super duper synthetic called Zero Friction that does wonders on a finicky semi auto .22, a touch on the rails and points of metal on metal does wonders to reliable operation. I brush all the exteriors of firearms with Ballistol on a shaving brush before putting away and just setting in the racks, never any issues. Some folks object to Ballistol's smell, I kinda like it...right up there with Hoppes, which I still use frequently, even in my muzzle loaders.
A friend of mine shoots quite a bit but only cleans his firearms when they start to exhibit an issue. I told him once that he didn't like cleaning his firearms he ought to take up knitting. To me cleaning firearms is personal time and when its been cleaned I know there is nothing to stop it from operating as designed. When someone on the range has a fail to fire issue and asks for help or obviously needs some assistance I often intervene as a range officer and club rep. The first thing I notice is usually the firearm is filthy, I politely ask when the last time it was cleaned and its amazing the number of times I get "You mean you have to clean them?" I usually am polite and ask if they have the manual and it would be a good idea to get a cleaning kit for each firearm or enough tools to take care of the job. I know many people hate cleaning firearms, it shows.