In cleaning guns, do you use a solvent like Hoppe's No. 9 in the bore, or can one just use Break-Free CLP for both cleaning and lubrication/preservation?

I've usually used Hoppe's, but hate the smell of it, and wonder if I can just rely on Break-Free for the whole affair.

Will CLP remove copper jacket fouling from rifle barrels?

Thanks,

T-Star

I'm no gunsmith by any stretch of the imagination but BreakFree seems to be working for me. I wouldn't use anything else on the 637 anyway so I've gotten used to it all the way around.

You hate the smell of Hoppe's??? Sacrilege!!!!!

Hoppes will remove copper fouling, but it isn't very aggressive. Tjere are better cleaners for removing copper.

However, hoppes is just strong enough that you shouldn't use it with brass brushes.

Overall, CLP is good stuff, but it doesn't touch metalic fouling.

A friend tells me his wife thinks the smell of Hoppe's #9 is an aphrodisiac. I haven't asked her if she agrees although she might since she has stayed married to him. I've tried using Breakfree for both cleaning and lubricating but didn't think it cleaned as well as Shooters Choice ( I only shoot jacketed bullets ). I still use Breakfree as lubricant.

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I like Ike.

CLP is a good general purpose cleaner and does a great job of cleaning carbon deposits and light copper fouling. For heavy copper fouling I use Butch's Bore Shine which smells like ammonia but does a quick job on fouling. For lead I use a bronze brush wrapped with Chore Boy copper mesh. CLP is good if you are cleaning after every outing. I hope that helps.

Frank

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sona si latine loqueris .

"A friend tells me his wife thinks the smell of Hoppe's #9 is an aphrodisiac. I haven't asked her if she agrees although she might since she has stayed married to him."

My wife's favorite fragrance on a man.

Hoppes #9 is essentially relabled Kerosene. You could save yourself some money and just use regular Kerosene or Diesel fuel instead.

I use Hoppes #9 and Break-Free CLP on all my guns.

Hoppes #9 is ammonia based so is unwise for use on nickled guns. If the ammonia gets under the nickle plating it can destroy the copper undercoat and allow the plating to flake off. I use #9 for blued guns and Breakfree or "Miracle cloth" to clean the bore on nickled guns though it takes a lot more elbow grease than #9.

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Big bang, much smash'em.

After break in I only use CLP. But I don't shoot my rifles much any more.

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SC Army National Guard

I don't shoot mine a lot, either, but need to do well by them after I do. Handguns are more often fired, but the lower velocity seems not to create as bad a cleaning situation.

T-Star

I was thinking of slipping hoppes in my wifes perfume bottle. Love the smell. I use CLP for almost all of my gun needs. If Hammerli recommends it for their guns then it can't be too bad. Larry

I use traditional Hoppes # 9 as a general-purpose powder solvent and parts cleaning solution just fine cleaning rimfire crud &tc. Hoppes' new "Elite" field and gun cleaners seem to live up to their claim to not only clean up but also prevent build-up of carbon fouling &tc. Butch's Bore Shine seems to aggressively attack copper fouling, and CLP seems to do everything fairly well. BC's "Sheath" offers great rust protection, and a little lube, on parts that want rustproofing vs. lubrication...

Kroil and Break Free(which is also sold by Toyota in a repack, so its gotta be good)

For most of my cleaning needs, I use regular Hoppes #9 (for lead), Hoppes copper cleaning solvent (for the jacketed stuff) and/or Shooters choice, which works OK on both lead and copper.

After cleaning is when everything gets a thin coat of Breakfree CLP. I haven't had any guns rust in many years.

For the smokey BP shooters, it's hot water and Balistol. Sometimes I'll use weasel piss or mule snot as well!

Weasel piss:
1 part hydrogen peroxide, 1 part isopropyl alcohol, and 1 part Murphy's Oil Soap.

Mule snot:
1 part balistol, and 1 part water.

WG840

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Freedom above all else.

So, is there a possibility that #9 might be an aphrodisiac for men too? Hmmm. Chanel has a #5 and a #19, but maybe they should come out with a #9.
Back to the original question. I use BF CLP on my guns. Used to used Hoppes, but it wasn't recommended for my nickel plated, so I started using CLP. Seems to work well.

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Misty

I can't believe the effectiveness of homebrewed "Ed's Red". Google it for the recepie. About $10 to $12 cost per GALLON. Use it for all cleaning and Mobil 1 30 wt for lubing. Especially good lube for semi-auto slides. Thrown all the other little bottles out.

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Lost in Penn's Woods

I use breakfree for both a cleaner and lubricant with the exception of heavily lead or copper fouled bores. Then I use some Barnes CR-2 to clean, then wipe with breakfree for storage.

I've had great luck with Hoppe's "Elite," and there's no smell!

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LEO since 1981.

Before I retired from the NG "Breakfree CLP" was all that was used on unit weapons, M 16's, M 60's, whatever. It works.

Hoppes #9 does smell better!

I quit using Breakfree CLP after reading the ArmaLite president's "Tech Note 72". I believe LTC Mark Westrom knows his weaponry.

Will you share what he said?

Shooter's Choice powder solvent to clean, Clenzoil to lube and protect.

If you've got a lot of copper fouling, Shooter's Choice copper solvent or Sweet's.

If you want to know what is in Hoppe's No. 9 solvent, here is a link to the MSDS data sheet:

http://www.hoppes.com/au_msds.html

I have used Hoppe's for about fifty years for routine cleaning and think it works great unless you need more copper removing power than it offers and then I switch to one of the more powerful bore cleaners. I use CLP Breakfree as a lubricant, but it doesn't seem to be very effective as a bore cleaner in my opinion. It is OK if all you want to do is remove carbon rresidue, but it doesn't do anything to remove copper fouling.

IIRC, Hoppes No. 9 was never billed as a copper solvent, only as a powder solvent. I have found that both CLP and also Kroil will also remove powder residue, but have more lubricating properties than Hoppes, so I have tilted toward using those for routine cleaning. If I have to deal with copper fouling or leading, other measures need to be taken.

The Citronella ingredient is what’s giving the Hoppes #9 smell that people love or hate. I like the smell of Citronella. My wife and mosquitoes hate that smell!

http://www.armalite.com/images/Tech%...%20Rev%201.pdf

There is a lot of black rifle maintenance info contained in the ArmaLite Technical Notes.

Blaspheme!

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Don't need no stinkin' sigline

I'll tell my son. My only "black rifle" is a Howa 1500 bolt action with a synthetic stock. 7mm/08.

I've used Break-Free on all of my guns for quite some time. No problems. I just wondered if I was getting out all the bore mess that I should be.

T-Star

I have the same basic question, for cleaning/lubricating a Shield 40.

I have read, and re-read this thread and several others, and it is still not clear to me if using the Break Free CLP alone is the best solution.

The product description from Safariland.com would seem to indicate that it should be very good:

Break Free® CLP

Any new thoughts on this?

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Be safe. Live long & prosper.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
THIS!

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SWCA #2306
DAV in honor of POP

CLP for everything, when you let everything soak a bit, they clean up much easier. Used it first in the Corp and will always stick with it.

To answer the OP's question, yes, CLP will remove copper fouling. Bring a lunch. Soak, scrub, repeat...repeat...repeat.
There are many specific copper removers. I prefer the M-Pro 7 series products as a compatible "family" of products, but there are lots o'options. Many copper removers are ammonia-based, which is viable but have some issues, mostly smell, toxicity, corrosion, and (some say) ammonia crystals after cleaning...which should be a non-issue if the bore is cleaned and lubricated after the remover is finished. The M-Pro 7 stuff is non-toxic and readily available. fWIW.

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50 Years of Wish You Were Here

I'm in the CLP camp also. I clean and lube after each outing and CLP seems to work just fine. I do add a thin bit of Hoppes Elite lube to the rails and moving parts. That Eds Red at $10 a gallon sounds interesting though!

Thanks for the feedback from everyone on using the Break Free CLP.

It was a very hard decision, but for now I have decided to go with Break Free CLP. I really like that it combines all three functions into one product, and, based on many reports, has done an excellent job of it for many years.

Having said that, I think (based on research, not experience) that either Break Free or Hoppe's would do a great job. I'll try to remember to post back here in 6 mos or so to report on the results.

Thanks again to all.

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Be safe. Live long & prosper.

My dad used Hoppes, WD40, Singer sewing machine oil and the occasional dipstick. I don't ever remember a gun failing on him.

Just sayin'

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Music/Sports/Beer fan

I mostly use CLP, unless I'm breaking in a rifle barrel. or I buy a gun with a lot of copper fouling. In which case I use an old bottle of 7.62 copper cleaner. Lots of ammonia so do it in a well ventilated area. I wouldn't use Hoppes or any other solvent on a nickel gun though. Would not want to risk damage to the finish.

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Even older, even crankier....

I have a VERY difficult time believing that Hoppes #9 is Kerosene.

Post some supporting evidence Please.

Cleaning products, then lube.

I have a variety of cleaning products which all work pretty close to advertised. For lubrication I use Willson Combat.

Been using MPro7 for cleaning and Break Free for lube for years. Les Baer absolutely drenches his new 1911s in Break Free when he sends them out. I'm just another one that thinks it's great stuff.

I just prefer MPro for cleaning but definitely stick with the BF for lube.

A highly competitive IPSC shooter gave me a bunch of Break Free many years ago because he said he didn't want it to touch any of his guns. Don't remember the reason or if he gave me one. Most products that try to do everything don't do anything real well. WD-40 is great for many things but it is only "OK" as a solvent, lubricant, or rust preventer. I like to use Remington Shotgun Cleaner to quickly clean my guns and then spray on some Remoil as lubricant and rust inhibitor. If a gun really needs some slicking up on the internals I like a tiny bit of "Bear Grease" and for a real good cleaning I field strip and soak parts in Hoppes then scrub them.

For most users, plain old mineral spirits is good for general cleaning, including bores. Any light machine oil, even 3-in-1, is OK for lubrication. Some believe synthetic motor oil is an excellent all-temperature gun lubricant, and I wouldn't doubt there's truth in that. I have even used watch and clock oil, and it seems fine also, even though you are not likely to have any on your workshop shelf. STP is a great lubricant, but a little messy. It works very well as a case resizing lubricant, the only one I have ever used for the last 45 years.

Anyone who hates the smell of Hoppes is herby banned from all gun Forums worldwide!

Joking of course! If they sold the scent as a cologne I'd use it!

I distinctly remember when I was a kid in Grade School sometimes I'd get home from school and upon opening the front door the house had a strong smell of Hoppes pouring out of it. My Dad was on his Agency's shooting team and there matches and practices held regularly. I'd throw my books on the kitchen table and race down stairs to watch him clean the guns he shot that day. LOVE the smell and it is associated with some great memories to.

If you want a Cleaner, Lube and Rust protectant in one get some Rig #2 Oil. It comes in an Aerosol can and a 4.5 ounce pour can too. It is an excellent productt for routine cleaning, lubrication and protection. It will NOT harm any wood, plastic, paint, Nickel, Gold, Rubber or any other firearms related materials.

Not saying it's the strongest cleaner, but if you clean on a regular basis its more than fine! Been using this stuff for 35 years and I have never been let down by this product. Sold by Midway, Brownells, Mid South, etc.

The best part is that it is thin, gets into every nook & cranny, and evaporates soon after application leaving behind a wax protectant against rust, corrosion and fingerprints. Will not gum up or attract dust and unburned powder residue. PERFECT for carry guns as you won't get oil and grease all over your holsters and clothing after cleaning a gun. Works well on knives and any household applications also. Very mild pleasant smell won't stink up the house. Low on the toxicity list and they are even allowed to sell it in the PR of CA!!!

I use the USGI RIFLE BORE CLEANER and the USGI LIGHT WEAPONS OIL on the bores. Moly inside the inners with #96 gun silicone on the outside.

Breakfree is My most often used all around product,I do sometimes use Shooters Choice as a Bore Solvent

Been using Remington Bore Brite and Breakfree CLP for quite a while myself. So confusing with so many products out there. Good to hear other suggestions. Like the idea of cleaning and lubing at same time. Important to protect our investments today. thanks for tips.

While I've said this here many time I shall once again.............

UNLESS you live in an area with extreme heat, moisture and brutal storage conditions for firearms, just about ANY of the major brands that have been around for a while will work just fine. Yes, some are better than others and some will prevent rust for longer periods of time, but the MOST IMPORTANT THING here is to use what ever you like on a regular basis! If you buy the best best best and never or infrequently use it - guess what ..... it's not going to work and one day you will grab one of your guns and see the nasty brown stuff.

I usually use just CLP, I do however open the jar of Hoppe's 9 just to get the aroma in the room.

The smell reminds me of my childhood, my Dad, and everything that is right in the world.

Before proposing to my wife, I asked her if she cried when old yeller died? She had never seen the movie. She is younger than me, so I needed another test.

I put some Hoppes number 9 on my pants cuff were it wouldn't show, before a date, she said I smelled nice, so I figured I had a good one. So far so good.