My preference is for Kydex, specifically this holster. I have versions of it for 3" & 4" K frames and autoloaders from the Walther PPS to full-size M&P45s and 1911s. I find it conceals well and is comfortable. This past weekend, I did two 200-mile drives to a shooting class and home, and did...
Since I attended those classes as a student, I obviously don't have the lesson plans for them.
The first one I did was by Greg Ellifritz, his Snubby Revolver for Concealed Carry class. This link goes to his main page; he doesn't have a separate page for that class. The class description is on...
It makes sense if it's your primary carry gun or in a class. I've done a class each with my 642 and 49 with ~200 rounds fired in a day. If you have decent grips and don't just stand there and burn through your ammo as fast as possible, it's not a big deal.
As noted above, +P is safe in a M36.
Just as important is where your chosen ammo hits in relation to point of aim. Older J frames are typically regulated for 148-158-grain ammo, while newer ones seem to be regulated for lighter bullet weights. The only way to find out is to shoot your...
Standard practice for me is to check the screws and ejector rod for tightness after every range trip. One of the old silver-handle sight screwdrivers that came with adjustable-sight S&Ws works for this check, and will work until you get home and tighten the screw with the proper size bit.
Mine is SN: N58XX, and it has the same "H" on the rear of the cylinder. It's the only 28 I have, though I do have a 4" 27-3.
Maybe the factory did a big batch of cylinders, and designated some for 28s and others for 27s?
In general, I agree with you. But the right side of that gun looks like rust has already started up. If it were my gun, I'd try 0000 steel wool and oil and see how that worked out; if it took care of the surface rust and there was little pitting, I'd probably hit it with some cold blue and...