My theory, it's a tool that might save my life. Kydex or leather, a few thousand practice draws will mark up any gun. That confirms you might be becoming more efficient.
A coworker just picked up a 3-1/4 " with black grips and we dated it in the late 1930's. No box or paperwork but clearly it was bought, put in a drawer where it remained until it was sold. No turn lines or a mark on it anywhere. The gun looks unfired. $590.
If bears are even a little threat there is probably no need for a dot and a greater need for a bigger hole puncher. At least a 10mm and I mean a real hot 10mm load, or 44 mag.
My 2 ¢
There are far too many posts about S&W quality control issues. I work at a range and also see my share as well as having a couple myself with PC guns no less. When asked, I switched my recomendations to Kimber and Ruger both of which have never given me issues.
Ran my new Hamre Forged grips on a 642 PC today. Great shape but recoil was hard on the hands and that is coming from a guy that has thousands of rounds through a 340pd with LG 405 laser grips. I may go back to the factory rubber or the wood that came on this gun.
Thanks for the heads up on Hamre Forged grips. I have a set of Spegel grips on an L frame and have been waiting for years for Craig to call for my J frame. I received a set of Hamre Forge's without the hook, and they work perfectly on one of my 642's. These are a great option and hopefully...
I have a PC 642, 340pd, gave my son in law a 642 cut for moonclips. Of the three I much prefer the 340pd just based on the longer extractor rod in the 357 version.
I have a Mod 17 6" 1971 mfg with stock grips. I teach ladies to shoot and the grips are just too large for someone with small hands to handle. Any suggestions as to a smaller profile set of grips for a K Frame square butt?