Recent content by kle

Hey, if you wanna trade, I've got an extra old-style, stainless-steel K/L/N thumb-piece that I'm not using.

and would a harder bullet help with that? I'm shooting some Missouri Bullet Co. 158gr LSWCs, with a Brinell Hardness of "12". I assume a harder bullet (Missouri Bullet Co. also has a 158gr LSWC with a BH of "18") would do better to counter leading at higher velocities...

maybe factory nickel-plated? Well, the thumbpiece and the gun will both be shiny, sure, but I've found nickel to be a bit...warmer?...in its luster (a little more yellow) than stainless. But at any rate, yes, the thumbpiece should fit your gun. ETA: please post pictures, if you would; I want...

I've shot almost 10000 rounds through my own 17-8, 10-shot. The aluminum cylinder has held up well in the year that I've had it. Most of my extraction problems come from ammo with thinner case-walls, usually Winchester Xperts, though sometimes Remington Golden Bullets and Thunderbolts are...

It will fit, though it won't be the same finish (the 65 is stainless, the 29 is blued).

Well, I tried my batch of 3.2gr W231 under 158gr LSWC bullets, and it seemed to go a lot better: when I do my part, I can hold the aiming black of a B-8 target at 25 yards, although my 50 yard scores are still abysmal--it's probably me more than anything. I still might try the hot loads, just...

how to fix it: 0: ensure your gun is unloaded 1: remove the grips 2: remove the two sideplate screws and the yoke screw and put them in a safe place, ensuring you know which goes in which hole (draw a picture of the sideplate on a piece of paper and stick each screw through the correct holes...

The part that is broken is called the "Hammer Nose". It's a $10 part, and it's a fairly simple fix, requiring a punch, and a mallet. In my experience with my own 10-6, not all hammer assemblies will "drop in" and fit exactly; I broke the nose on my 10-6, and just like you, I didn't want to...

Hmm...maybe I've been going the wrong way with my 158gr loads--I just assembled some at 3.2gr W231 tonight after 3.8gr, 3.7gr, 3.6gr, 3.5gr, and 3.4gr had barely any accuracy at 50 yards. I oughtta try 4.0gr of W231 (which should be roughly equivalent to 3.5gr Bullseye) and see how that goes...

I had the same problem with the bigger grips--I solved it by going to slimmer grips: all of my target S&Ws wear Ahrends Tactical Fingergroove grips, which are really slim near the top (the grips only add about 1/4" of width) and direct all of the recoil into the webbing of my hands, rather than...

My only Model 10 is a 10-6, with the heavy barrel. At the time I bought it (last year), the dealer had a bunch of Model 10s on the table, some with the standard barrels, some with the heavy barrels, so I got to handle both types. I felt the heavy barrel balanced more naturally for me, but then...

Sure, if you're using something like .357 Magnum or greater. .38SPL, even +P, shouldn't burn too much if at all... Well, maybe with slower powders...

you're welcome; hope you've found some inspiration through the pictures. Good luck!

Alrighty, here you go: I changed the grips (these have a rougher, more grippy texture) and the trigger (I like the .312" smooth forged trigger).

S&W 617-4, Weigand scope base, Tasco AccuDot: The same S&W 617-4, Weigand scope base, Tasco 2x20 scope: The 617-4 now wears a 1" UltraDot (no pictures of it; I just made it dirty at a match and I still need to clean it up).