Recent content by terminator2

Thanks sceva and Mr. Jinks.

Thank you all for the good info. Much appreciated!

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. If it was a '72 I could get it into California, but as a '73 it's still not a C&R yet so no joy. :(

Can anyone of you wise sage 41 aficionados tell me if a Mod 41 I'm looking to buy was made in 1972? The serial # is A191230. Is this old of a 41 have any issues I should consider? Thanks in advance.

Thankyou gentlemen for sharing all of that very useful information and insight. The depth and breadth of information from you guys is remarkable and invaluable. Bravo!

Thanks again to all you wise men for your sage and sound opinions. I'm also amazed that a gun of that age is in such remarkable condition. There some occasional very light what looks like surface rust on the finish in the areas that would normally be in contact with the hand and I'm guessing...

Thanks a bunch! You guys are great!

Here is the left side and the top strap:

Got this recently and wanted to know its date of manufacture and a ballpark value figure. Any help would be much appreciated. I've attached pics of the numbers on the butt, frame/yoke, under the barrel and on the cylinder. I'm just guessing it was made before the 1940's? It's in remarkably...

Thanks to all of you who took the time to offer your opinions/suggestions to my question. This site and forum is truly a treasure trove of experience and knowledge and I really appreciate being able to participate in it. Now it's time to crank out some .38 target loads for my 686!;) Frank

I'm going to start reloading .38 special target loads and have 5 boxes of magnum SPP's that I'd like to use up. I plan on using 148 gr cast HBWC bullets and Bullseye powder. Would there be any issues in using up my magnum SPP's until I get some standard SPP's?

Thanks Bill, mine didn't have the "M" in the number on the butt. Yours looks gorgeous! Love those grips. Thanks for sharing.

The serial # is on the butt. Thank you Jack!;)

Thanks in advance.

I tried Judge's suggestion, and after filing off some material from the non-knerled end of the new tube it still did not open easily, so I carefully bent the original tube back to true and now it works fine.;)