Identification help

[terminator2]

Got this recently and wanted to know its date of manufacture and a ballpark value figure. Any help would be much appreciated.

I've attached pics of the numbers on the butt, frame/yoke, under the barrel and on the cylinder. I'm just guessing it was made before the 1940's? It's in remarkably good condition mechanically and I'd say 85% cosmetically.

 

[Muley Gil]

Welcome to the Forum.

You have a .38 Military & Police, made between 1910 and 1920. If you remove the grips, the serial number should be written in pencil on the inside of the right one. You may or may not be able to read the number.

You need to post pictures of the left side before we can give you a value.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

It's a Model 1905, round butt, 3rd Change, from around 1910. The gold medallion grips on it are from the 1910-20 era. I'll get pushback from the 1902 crowd but it doesn't have the Model 1902 action. That changed in 1905 with implementation of the rebound slide. S&W later called all these, round and square butts, the .38 M&P, as Gil states. It is valued around $450 +/- depending on condition.

 

[terminator2]

Here is the left side and the top strap:

 

[terminator2]

Thanks a bunch! You guys are great!

 

[Donald Paul]

... looks good.
And, how about that, a 'black powder cup'.
Cheers - Donald

 

[Oyeboteb]

View attachment 488714

View attachment 488715Here is the left side and the top strap:

View attachment 488714

View attachment 488715

Mighty good looking old S & W!

That time frame Stocks, the round Butt, and Barrel Length to me are a perfect confluence...everything about it is in harmony and "just right'.

 

[glowe]

There are not very many S&W Military & Police revolvers out there in better condition than your gun. Stocks are in near perfect condition and I might guess that the majority or that S&W may have bee spent rattling around in some drawer for much of its 110 year life.

The 3rd Change revolver was made from 1909 to 1915, in serial number range 146,000 - 241,703. It would have likely shipped from the factory in 1911 using the SWCA database and knowing my 150XXX M&P shipped in April, 1911.

As for value, knowing it is wearing the less common walnut service socks and all edges are sharp with solid bluing in place, I would suggest it would sell quite easily for over $500.

 

[terminator2]

Thanks again to all you wise men for your sage and sound opinions. I'm also amazed that a gun of that age is in such remarkable condition. There some occasional very light what looks like surface rust on the finish in the areas that would normally be in contact with the hand and I'm guessing the hand sweat and amino acids probably contributed to it. Also some of the same where it may have been in contact with the leather of a holster. Would I be crazy to think of having it reblued or just leave it as is for value sake? I removed the side plate and this thing looks new! I was expecting to see a transfer bar (I think that is what it is called) in there that I had on my model 19-2 but there wasn't one.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Take the grips off and immerse the gun in a 50-50 mixture of acetone and auto transmission fluid for several days in a chemically inert, sealable container. Lightly rub the surface with bronze wool or a copper Chore Boy scrub pad (all copper, no plating) to remove the rust. Spray it down thoroughly with aerosol carb/parts/brake cleaner then lightly relube the action, yoke stud and extractor rod. Wipe down the outside with an oily cloth and it should be good to go. Don't even think about refinishing that beauty. A refinish would kill the value and cost as much as the gun is worth.


Your gun predates the hammer block safety by about 30 years. It didn't get implemented on commercial guns until after WWII. Well, actually, the M&Ps had hammer block safeties but they were in the sideplate, not a cross bar.

 

[glowe]

Let's be clear that the first hammer block safety was supplied with the introduction of the 38 M&P, 4th Change. The design was patented in 1914, but prior to about 1915, there were no safety provisions offered for the K frame revolver, so don't drop your loaded gun on its hammer!

As Guy stated, soaking the M&P and spraying out the internals will not only help you clean up any rust, it will also dissolve sludge and/or varnish from the mechanism. If you plan on using copper scouring pads, use a magnet to make sure that the pad is all copper and not copper plated steel wool. I would not have the gun re-blued since it would ruin all collector interest, and would certainly cost quite a bit of money to do it correctly.

 

[terminator2]

Thankyou gentlemen for sharing all of that very useful information and insight. The depth and breadth of information from you guys is remarkable and invaluable. Bravo!