2 inch Pre-10, s prefix

dacoontz · Oct 11, 2010

Here's a little beauty that I picked up at a local show here in Utah this last weekend. I was able to pick it up for $350 OTD. I would say it's about 93% with a little finish missing on the top strap and random spots on the cylinder. Grips are numbered to the gun. The only downside is that it is very difficult to open the cylinder. It looks like the ejector rod doesn't want to release from the ejector pin that is seated under the barrel. Most that I have seen look filed on both sides to a point where as this one looks like it is only filed on one side so when the end of the ejector rod is seated then it is latched too well and doesn't want to release. I hope I am making some sense here. What's the fix for this?

Anyway, it was a nice little show put on by the UGCA. I was very fortunate to meet up with a couple from Florence, Oregon that are members of the SWCA and had a great display of pre 1900 top breaks that he had also displayed at the recent SWCA Tuscon show. I had remembered seeing the display in the pics posted by Dan M in the SWCA section.

kennethg · Oct 11, 2010

That is very nice. I was able to pick up one just like yours some months back but not as nice as yours. They are great shooters.

pace40 · Oct 11, 2010

Nice gun...
Great Hammer!

Take it apart and soak it. Might just be some caked on gunk in the springs.

H Richard · Oct 11, 2010

If the ejector rod holding pin is really not beveled on one side it could cause the problem you describe. The part can be replaced, or it could be removed, beveled, and reinstalled. Replacing is easier. Nice gun.

DCWilson · Oct 11, 2010

Dan, congratulations. I got one last month that I like a lot. Like yours, it is a S-prefix postwar model. I paid somewhat more than you did, then had to pay shipping and FFL fees here in California as well. All in all, you got the much better deal.

It wasn't too long ago that I realized two-inch M&P revolvers even existed. I just assumed M&Ps were all 4, 5, and 6-inch guns. The two-inchers aren't plentiful, to be sure, but they are out there. SCSW gives them a 25% value upgrade.

Excellent score.

dacoontz · Oct 11, 2010

I did give it a really good cleaning. Completely dismantled and then cleaned and put back together. The action is perfect but just as H Richard described that the holding pin is not beveled on both sides and it is just getting caught. I'll have to see where I can find a holding pin for this gun. Any ideas on where to start? Thanks for the insight.

dacoontz · Oct 11, 2010

DCWilson said:
Dan, congratulations. I got one last month that I like a lot. Like yours, it is a S-prefix postwar model. I paid somewhat more than you did, then had to pay shipping and FFL fees here in California as well. All in all, you got the much better deal.

It wasn't too long ago that I realized two-inch M&P revolvers even existed. I just assumed M&Ps were all 4, 5, and 6-inch guns. The two-inchers aren't plentiful, to be sure, but they are out there. SCSW gives them a 25% value upgrade.

Excellent score.

Dave, I remember you posted one just awhile back. I think that was part of the inspiration to acquire this one when I saw it. I just really like the way these short barrelled M&P's look. They aren't always the most valuable guns but this model is starting to become a favorite of mine. The SCSW also gives a 25% upgrade on the S prefix also so I was glad to see that for what I paid for it. I had seen it 2 weeks ago at an earlier show and figured since it came back that it was meant for me. Plus, I just had to find something on 10/10/10 to add to my collection. I look forward to what Roy has to say on the shipping date.
One thing I noticed about this gun that I hadn't noticed before, and it may be obvious to others, is that the serial number is stamped on the crane as well as the other usual places. I just don't recall seeing that before on these pre-10's. Do you see that on yours? I'll have to take a look at my 4" pre-10 and see if it has the serial number in that location as well. Anyway, thanks, and I agree that I scored on this one especially since I had two shots at it.

DCWilson · Oct 11, 2010

I just checked mine and it has only the soft-fit numbers on the yoke and facing frame surface. So in January 1947 and at serial numbers near S870000, they were not yet serializing the yoke in that location.

On the hard release problem: remember that when the thumb release is pushed forward, the front end of the center pin is supposed to come flush with the end of the ejector rod. If that happens, no part of the front retaining pin will impede the opening of the yoke because it has been pushed completely out of the way. Check the length of the center pin. With the cylinder open, use a punch to push the pin and see if it gets flush with the end of the rod. And while the cylinder is open, check the end of the bolt in the recoil shield. Is it flush with the face? Possibly there is a rough spot in the bolt channel that keeps it from moving all the way forward. That would affect the movement of the center pin to a position of complete disconnect.

The front retaining pin is not supposed to have a V-profile as you look at it from underneath. There is a 45-degree slope on the outside face of the pin, which is struck by the tip of the ejector rod on closing, and the other side has only a slight 10-degree (est.) bevel so that as the pin enters the end of the ejector rod it pushes the rod and yoke assembly tightly against the frame. If that side looks unbeveled I would just lightly stone the edge to knock off any spurs that might be affecting its performance. But I really believe the problem is going to be in the movement of the center pin, not the front retaining pin.

mikepriwer · Oct 11, 2010

I agree with David - the center pin is maybe a bit too short. The test
you want to do is to open the cylinder, and then press the recoil-shield
end of the center pin with the side of a screw-driver. The idea is to
simulate the pressing that it gets from the thumb-release - and not
go any further. Then look at the other end of the extractor rod, and
see if the center pin has come flush to its end.

The other thing to do, with the cylinder open and the hammer pulled
back, is to push the thumb release forward, and see if the end of the
bolt comes flush with the face of the recoil shield. If its not coming
all the way forward, then something is impeding it in the lockwork.
Not likely since you cleaned it thoroughly, but something to check.

Mike Priwer

SDH · Oct 11, 2010

Great revolvers, I sure like mine. It's in the S9359xx era and doesn't have the serial number in the yoke cut.
Before you do Anything else, make sure the extractor/center pin is tight, if they come even a little bit loose it will bind-up the opening.

dacoontz · Oct 11, 2010

I think between what you guys have mentioned that I should be able to find something. I need to take a closer look in the morning. It seems like the problem is at the front end where the retaining pin meets the front of the ejector rod. It seems to be having a tough time releasing the extractor rod. Although, this sounds like it could also be the fault of the back end not pushing forward enough to allow it to release. Well, I need to take a closer look at it and put it up next to my easily opening 4" pre-10 and see what is different. Thanks again.

Oh and mine is S 963080. So somewhere between SDH's and mine the SN in the yoke began.

wundudnee · Oct 11, 2010

O.K., You guys got me curious and I had to go to the safe for my 2" M&P.
I got this one last year at a gunshow, FTF from an older gentleman. He had a bunch of guys looking at it and I heard him say, "I won't take less than $275.00 for it." They handed it back to him and I asked to see it, it never left my hands after that. And I didn't argue the price. I was ignorant at the time about 2" M&Ps in the S serial # range. But I knew I had to have it. I'm not sure it was ever fired until I got it.

The serial# on it is S 973659 in all the normal places, but the crane and yoke are marked S 2711

DCWilson · Oct 11, 2010

Well, darn it, if all you guys are going to show off your guns in response to Daniel's completely righteous brag, I'm not going to sit on the sideline!

Here's mine, S868055 (Jan 1947).

Who actually carried these short-barrel pieces? Were they Bank messenger guns? Post office guns? Plainclothes LEO guns? Railroad and port guard guns? At the time these were coming out, they would have been the most powerful snubbies in the S&W line. You could get less powerful I-frame snubbies in .38 S&W (the .38/32 Terrier) and in .32 (the ordinary .32 Hand Ejector). The only more massive guns that you could get would have been cut-down 1917s or .44 HE/Second Models. Colt made snubbies at this time, but they were smaller frame guns. I don't know if Colt was making short barrel revolvers on their larger Official Police frame, which is sort of similar to the S&W K frame.

If anybody has any knowledge or thoughts on that, I'd be glad to hear. (Dan, apologies for taking your thread sideways.)

dacoontz · Oct 12, 2010

Dave,
No worries at all. I love seeing all these 2 inch M&P's. Let's keep it going and see what all we can find out about these guns. Although, i now may have to find me a grip adapter like yours to dress mine up a little.

JayCeeNC · Oct 12, 2010

SDH · Oct 12, 2010

Who actually carried these short-barrel pieces? Were they Bank messenger guns? Post office guns? Plainclothes LEO guns? Railroad and port guard guns? .)[/QUOTE]

No mystery about that...
Dick Tracy!

Malysh · Oct 12, 2010

Very nice 2" MPs, gents.

Most probably the culprit is the center pin or it's bolt.
I have a cherished '74 Mod 38 that does it, too. I don't think extreme gunk is the most likely problem. The pin could be too long or the end of the bolt could be too short.

It's going to be sent back to S&W this fall. I hate to be apart from it

dacoontz · Oct 15, 2010

Some more pics of that sn on the crane

Okay, so maybe I wasn't quite clear, but I added some pics of the serial number stamped in the crane. You can't see it unless you have the cylinder and crane off the gun. Anyway, maybe more common than I thought as my later premodel 10 with SN C142,XXX also has the number stamped on the crane.

Also there is a pic of the end of the extractor rod, that is how it looks when the extractor pin is pushed all the way forward and also a pic of the release pin that may need some filing on the one side. What do you guys think? Same diagnosis as before?

dacoontz · Oct 15, 2010

Some more pics

Also some pics of my two pre-10's sharing a few frames. Also have a picture with the two cocked, is this the difference between short and long action? It's cool seeing these two together and seeing the differences that only a few years make on the same model.

ladder13 · Oct 15, 2010

Run of the mill "C"

2 inch Pre-10, s prefix

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