Who has this scope? UTG 3-9x32 Bug Buster? What do you think about it?

I've been considering both of these scopes myself. Other than the magnification differences, do you have a preference one way or the other for either of them?

Actually, the UTG 30mm SWAT 3-12X44 Compact on the Rock River LAR-15 is for 100 yards +. The 3-9x32 is on the 15-22 and typically for 25 yards (length of the indoor range!). Both suit their purposes well. I guess it's a toss-up.
 

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I don't see how this scope would be intended for use out to only 25 yards! Two of you have stated that is what you use it for. At 25 yards the irons are more than sufficient for a 2" target. I hope to zero it to 100 yards and be able to get used to hold overs for out to 200 yards. Am I asking too much?

Anyway, the thing looks sick on my rifle and feels pretty damn solid. But judging by the comments I should zero it at full 9x in case it changes zero with zoom.
Pic:
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I don't see how this scope would be intended for use out to only 25 yards! Two of you have stated that is what you use it for. At 25 yards the irons are more than sufficient for a 2" target. I hope to zero it to 100 yards and be able to get used to hold overs for out to 200 yards. Am I asking too much?

Anyway, the thing looks sick on my rifle and feels pretty damn solid. But judging by the comments I should zero it at full 9x in case it changes zero with zoom.
Pic:

Check out this link (if it works). Set up Your Scope for Success - Rifle Shooting Technique - NSSF Shooting Sportscast - YouTube Just about at the end it might help explain some. There are other video links off to the right that might help too. Some video's tell about adjusting your scope at "what power" for different zero's too.
 
I have this scope as well, the bug buster that is. One thing I think I would like is a riser(like Johnr43 has in his pics)? I have mine put on like you have yours, straight on the rail, which is really low. There have been times where I had to get very uncomfortable to be able to see the through the scope. I got it over others because I though it looked the coolest. If you are wanting to be most accurate at a distance I think you should go with the other scope. If you want it to look cooler and save $10 go with the bug buster. You talked about shooting at 100 yards, I was shooting at Amazon.com: Do-All Outdoors .22 Auto Reset Target: Sports & Outdoors this at 100 yards, it was taking me 5 or 6 shots to hit them but I didnt get to adjust the scope from I think a 50 yard zero.
 
Sick or Slick?

I don't see how this scope would be intended for use out to only 25 yards! Two of you have stated that is what you use it for. At 25 yards the irons are more than sufficient for a 2" target. I hope to zero it to 100 yards and be able to get used to hold overs for out to 200 yards. Am I asking too much?

Anyway, the thing looks sick on my rifle and feels pretty ... solid. But judging by the comments I should zero it at full 9x in case it changes zero with zoom.

I suppose a lot depends on how old you eyes are! ;) But, I agree 100 yards should work.
 
I have this scope as well, the bug buster that is. One thing I think I would like is a riser(like Johnr43 has in his pics)? I have mine put on like you have yours, straight on the rail, which is really low. There have been times where I had to get very uncomfortable to be able to see the through the scope. I got it over others because I though it looked the coolest. If you are wanting to be most accurate at a distance I think you should go with the other scope. If you want it to look cooler and save $10 go with the bug buster. You talked about shooting at 100 yards, I was shooting at Amazon.com: Do-All Outdoors .22 Auto Reset Target: Sports & Outdoors this at 100 yards, it was taking me 5 or 6 shots to hit them but I didnt get to adjust the scope from I think a 50 yard zero.

With a 50-yard zero, the drop at 100 yards is approximately 3 inches. With a 25-yard zero, the drop is approximately 6 inches. With either zero, it shouldn't take more than a couple of shots to figure the holdover.

I currently use a 33-9x32 Simmons with a 2-minute dot and have no problem hitting clay birds at 100 yards with a 25-yard zero. It's called practice. :)
 
With a 50-yard zero, the drop at 100 yards is approximately 3 inches. With a 25-yard zero, the drop is approximately 6 inches. With either zero, it shouldn't take more than a couple of shots to figure the holdover.

I currently use a 33-9x32 Simmons with a 2-minute dot and have no problem hitting clay birds at 100 yards with a 25-yard zero. It's called practice. :)

My wife was nagging me that everyone was waiting on me for lunch. So I did not have much time to shoot at 100 yards. I only get to shoot when we visit the inlaws who live out in the country. Dont judge me to harshly! I have only shot the gun 4 or 5 times I think and the first couple was without scope.
 
My wife was nagging me that everyone was waiting on me for lunch. So I did not have much time to shoot at 100 yards. I only get to shoot when we visit the inlaws who live out in the country. Dont judge me to harshly! I have only shot the gun 4 or 5 times I think and the first couple was without scope.

No judgement, just passing along information. Have fun and find some additional places to shoot. :)
 
Well, I definitely have some work to do to get this thing zeroed. I also found that the eye relief at full zoom is pretty tight. I would like the scope to be slightly higher, maybe an eighth inch or so. I was trying to zero at about 50 yards but think I will be restarting the process closer. All part of the fun I guess.
 
Well, I definitely have some work to do to get this thing zeroed. I also found that the eye relief at full zoom is pretty tight. I would like the scope to be slightly higher, maybe an eighth inch or so. I was trying to zero at about 50 yards but think I will be restarting the process closer. All part of the fun I guess.

Try higher rings for the height change; it comes with medium rings and tall rings are about 1/8" higher.

As for zeroing, one should always start NO FARTHER than 25 yards. I start zeroing at 10 yards, in most cases, to make sure I'm on the paper, and then rezero, if necessary, at 25. BTW, I always bore sight the scope to the rifle first, using a laser bore sighter.

My practice is to always shoot from a SOLID rest and take one shot, then, without moving the rifle, adjust the scope to center on the hole in the paper, no matter where it is. I then take another shot and re-adjust the scope, if necessary. It seldom takes me more than three shots to zero any scope.

I don't have any scopes that, noticeably, change zero with a power change. I zero at whatever the mid power setting is.
 
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So I got the scope dialed in this past Saturday. I started off about 10y and moved out to 100y. I shoot kneeling behind a wooden spool and rest my left hand on top of an ammo box. So it is not the most stable position.
At 40-50y I was just enlarging the hole of the first shot. Out at 100y I was probably getting a group of 4"-5". But in the process of trying to find a new spot on the target to hit, I clipped the edge wire and spun it pretty good. So I am happy with how well it was able to dial in. All above shooting was at 9x magnification.
My feeling on the scope: I think it was well worth the money. I did not have the issue that many have mentioned on amazon with the cross hairs not lining up with the axis of windage and elevation adjustments. The illumination works well and the picture is pretty clear. The magnification nob and the illuminated crosshair nob are both very stiff. My biggest complaint is that I have not found a way to lock the ocular adjustment and it is not nearly as stiff as the other adjustments.
All in all I happy with my purchase. I can readily ring 2" steel at 50-100y without a hiccup.
 
Very similar, the UTG has an illuminated reticle as well. Have you used this before. Does the ocular adjustment lock? If so I would consider that a leg up.
 
Very similar, the UTG has an illuminated reticle as well. Have you used this before. Does the ocular adjustment lock? If so I would consider that a leg up.

Have it, own it, won it in a contest :) For what it is - a budget scope of course - I have been pretty impressed with it. Small & compact and I have had great luck with it, holds zero. The illuminated reticle - 5 levels of brightness for each color - can go red or twisted in other direction and go green, so good night and day possibilities.

But no, the ocular adjustment does not lock.
 
I've never had that exact scope but, I have had other 3-9x32 scopes and maybe it's just me but, it can be a little hard to see a small target at 100 yards and the image was blurry at that distance.
For my .17 rifle, I ended up going with a BSA mil-dot 6-24x40 with paralax adjustment (allows me to focus the scope with it zoomed all the way in).
 
I looked at the UTG 1-4X for my 15-22 but will probably go with a Primary Arms. They're a little more expensive but I've run their Aimpoint T1 clone on my M&P 15T, put over 1000 rounds through, shooting nearly every day, casing and uncasing it to shoot, tossing it in the back seat of my vehicles, bumped, knocked and run the weapon and optic hard and it hasn't lost zero in a year. For the money, I haven't found a better optic at the higher end of "budget priced". They also have an iron clad lifetime guarantee so should I ever manage to damage it, they'll replace it.
 
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