Which trigger for 15 Sport?

Me, too, on the RRA 2-stage trigger. Excellent trigger, and the best value on the market, bar none. I found mine on eBay, $79.95, shipping included.
 
Do your research.

Buy the trigger that best fits the type shooting you do.

I would reconsider trying to saving money on a trigger. Take your time learning about what's available and what folks have to say about their triggers, then when you have $250 to spend click the buy button on the right one for you.

I have a Wilson Combat TTU 4lb single. Best trigger there is as far as I'm concerned for what I want. But it may not be for someone else.

Happy trigger hunting.

I have this same trigger, a Wilson Combat TTU 4lb single and it is simply awesome in the way it fits, the design, ease of installation, function, trigger pull, very short reset, no slop, no creep and smooth as glass. I did a lot of research and this one people picked a lot even when they had tried others they stated this on was the best an I now understand why, you won't be disappointed, and I got it on sale at Christmas so I saved about $70.00 but it's worth the full cost as far as I'm concerned. Also there's no need for anti-walk pins because of the design you don't need them, great design, really.
You can fire extremely fast with this trigger and could probably bump fire if you held the stock just right, haven't tried that yet but I'd bet it work with such a short reset.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9VS-NbSYZU"]Wilson Combat TTU installation Video[/ame]
 
Last edited:
I had an ALG in the first AR I built. It is a nice trigger, a lot nicer than the factory triggers on my other two AR's (Bushmasters).

I found a Geiselle SSA on sale for $168.00 at primaryarms.com last Christmas. I installed it in place of the ALG trigger. The Geiselle SSA is so much better than the factory trigger, and even the ALG that the Geiselle SSA has to be experienced. They are definitely worth the money.
 
Last edited:
The factory trigger on my M&P 15T is surprisingly smooth and crisp. Not sure if they use a different trigger on this model, or if I just got lucky....

Same here.
I switched out the factory trigger for a JP Enterprises match trigger, but ended up going back to the factory parts.
 
Geisele SSA-E

I have an M&P 15 MOE mid Length and installed the geisele SSA-E trigger. It's a breeze to install. Yeah, it's a little more expensive, about $225, but its worth it in the long run. It's a 2 stage trigger. The 2nd stage breaks like glass...no mushiness at all. I recommend it.
 
Look, unless I'm reading the original poster incorrectly, he just wants a decent pinker trigger.
Everyone seems bent on spending $200+ of his money.
I'm telling you, JP "yellow" springs are almost as good as 200-400 dollar trigger groups. I have a $400 trigger group x TacCon (3MR) which is better than "fantastic" - BUT that is NOT what he wants!
Question: has anyone put in a set of JP "yellow" springs into their AR's? No? I have & so have some of my buddies I shoot competition w/. Everyone (read: everyone) is astonished x the difference they make even when that is all they do to the MilSpec trigger group.
Hey "pdblue" - I'll send you $10 so you can buy a set. Seriously. My email is "[email protected]". Shooters have helped me in the past, so now it's my turn.
 
I run a Rock River Arms 2-Stage Varmint trigger in my rifle. It's a nice 2-stage that doesn't break the bank. I bought mine for around $85. Otherwise if you're happy with a single stage combat trigger, check out the ALG defense Advanced Combat Trigger.

Advanced Combat Trigger (ACT)

https://rockriverarms.com/index.cfm...tegory_id=434&CFID=485909643&CFTOKEN=67786521

The ALG one, buy directly from ALG. The RRA trigger, shop around. You can find them for less than the $120 listed on the RRA website.


This is the correct answer.

I've been around these guns a while. The RRA NM is not the best trigger, but it is the best trigger value for the money for a casual shooter hands down. It is clean, crisp, and of significant quality. You can buy better for three times the price, but it wouldn't be a significant improvement. RRA onows what they are doing with target and match rifles and components.
 
Let him decide

Look, unless I'm reading the original poster incorrectly, he just wants a decent pinker trigger.
Everyone seems bent on spending $200+ of his money.
I'm telling you, JP "yellow" springs are almost as good as 200-400 dollar trigger groups. I have a $400 trigger group x TacCon (3MR) which is better than "fantastic" - BUT that is NOT what he wants!
Question: has anyone put in a set of JP "yellow" springs into their AR's? No? I have & so have some of my buddies I shoot competition w/. Everyone (read: everyone) is astonished x the difference they make even when that is all they do to the MilSpec trigger group.
Hey "pdblue" - I'll send you $10 so you can buy a set. Seriously. My email is "[email protected]". Shooters have helped me in the past, so now it's my turn.

Nobody here is spending his money for him or trying to sell anything. We're just letting him know our experiences. When I decided to re-trigger my M&P 15, I did my research, like he's doing, and read all the user ratings on midway, brownells, etc then made my choice. I plink and shoot 3-gun with my M&P. i couldn't be happier with the SSA-E...and it didn't cost $400.
 
Why don't you first try taking the old one out and do a bit of polishing? Get yourself an Arkansas Stone and polish all surfaces, who knows you might be satisfied with the parts you have tuned up a bit. Otherwise you cant possibly be disappointed with a Geissele SSA-E Super Semi Automatic Enhanced Trigger, Geissele SSA-E Super Semi Automatic Enhanced Trigger AR-15 LR-308 Little pricy but worth every penny,


Because most people don't know what they are polishing or when to stop.
 
The factory trigger on my M&P 15T is surprisingly smooth and crisp. Not sure if they use a different trigger on this model, or if I just got lucky....


If you look closely with a loupe, you may notice that some AR triggers / sear surfaces are ground front to back, and some side to side.

Most S&W's are front to back. (As well as Stag Arms). The result is usually a better pull.
 
Do your research.

Buy the trigger that best fits the type shooting you do.

I would reconsider trying to saving money on a trigger. Take your time learning about what's available and what folks have to say about their triggers, then when you have $250 to spend click the buy button on the right one for you.

I have a Wilson Combat TTU 4lb single. Best trigger there is as far as I'm concerned for what I want. But it may not be for someone else.

Happy trigger hunting.
I'm happy with the Wilson Combat TTU and their service is excellent.
 
I own 3 M&P 15's and all of their triggers are smooth and crisp with no discernible creep. A little bit of polishing of the sear parts can only help but I can't justify additional cost as they shoot better than I can hope for from a factory configuration
 
Geiselle SSA-E

I have one in my Sport. No adjustments, solid, simple install, 3.5lbs candy cane like break. It will tighten your groups up.
 
Look, unless I'm reading the original poster incorrectly, he just wants a decent pinker trigger.
Everyone seems bent on spending $200+ of his money.
I'm telling you, JP "yellow" springs are almost as good as 200-400 dollar trigger groups. I have a $400 trigger group x TacCon (3MR) which is better than "fantastic" - BUT that is NOT what he wants!
Question: has anyone put in a set of JP "yellow" springs into their AR's? No? I have & so have some of my buddies I shoot competition w/. Everyone (read: everyone) is astonished x the difference they make even when that is all they do to the MilSpec trigger group.
Hey "pdblue" - I'll send you $10 so you can buy a set. Seriously. My email is "[email protected]". Shooters have helped me in the past, so now it's my turn.

Yes, I have.

Here is what a JP spring set will do. It will change a heavier creep ridden gritty lousy trigger into a lighter mushy creep ridden gritty lousy trigger that may now have reliability problem with harder military primers. Polishing the FCG can get the gritty part out.
 
I would add my vote for Geissele -- I have their SSAs in two AR platform weapons -- a varmint 5.56 and a .308 for larger game. Installation is pretty straightforward -- Geissele provides excellent drop-in instructions ... took less than 10 mins. to remove the old trigger and install the new SSA.

No question as to their quality, but will grant they are a tad more pricey. I chose the 2-stage, which fits the application in both platforms. I'll point out Geissele has come out with their G2S, a lower-price 2-stage: Geissele 2 Stage (G2S) Trigger

I also concur with other posters who advise to weigh your end-use needs.
 
Last edited:
Yes, I have.

Here is what a JP spring set will do. It will change a heavier creep ridden gritty lousy trigger into a lighter mushy creep ridden gritty lousy trigger that may now have reliability problem with harder military primers. Polishing the FCG can get the gritty part out.

Nope! Enough of my friends have used them that I can safely say it isn't my personal opinion . . . & my offer still stands: I'll buy him a set so it'll cost him zero to see for himself. I'm that sure . . . & of course you're right about a little bit of polishing on the FCG is always a good idea.

ps I love Timney's: 3# for the AR's & 4# for the .22, but the JP's will work just fine
 
Last edited:
In order to understand the limitations of reduced power springs, one must understand a little about the mechanics. The below is a good animation of how the trigger, hammer and disconnector work together.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xh2FjzVVIZY[/ame]

As you can see, to take the creep (trigger movement required to release the hammer) out of a single stage trigger requires changing (reducing) area of engagement between the trigger sear and hammer. Reduced power springs don't do that. What springs do is reduce the amount of force between the parts. Now that does reduce the amount of friction between the trigger sear and hammer making trigger pull lighter, but at a loss of force the hammer strikes the firing pin. That's why you'll hear lots of complaints about the JP reduced weight springs and light strikes with harder military primers. You might be asking why my Wilson trigger at only 4lbs doesn't suffer light strikes too. Wilson changed the trigger geometry. Reduced power springs don't do that.
Creep remains the same with just a reduced power spring.

Now why aren't all triggers made with less creep? Safety. Here's the problem with near zero creep triggers. There is such little engagement area between the trigger sear and hammer, that a rifle falling or being slammed up against something, even with the safety engaged, will fire if the hammer slips off the trigger sear. How to prevent that? Bill Wilson, the 1911 genius, incorporates a 1911 style half-cock notch. So no matter what, if the trigger is not pulled the hammer will not fully slam forward and engage the firing pin. Safest AR trigger on the market. See pic below. Your trigger won't do that. Try it. Keep ahold of the hammer so it doesn't freely slam up against the receiver, just let it out slow. It will keep going forward until it is stopped by the receiver.

There are other considerations, but that's enough for now to understand how hopeless the notion is that a reduced power spring can magically transform a trigger into something it is not,"closed eyes" or otherwise. That said, a lighter mushy creepy gritty trigger that may be less reliable with hard primers might just be what someone wants. If that's the case, enjoy.

 
Last edited:
+1 to Chattanooga Phil

Well said. Weakening springs is not a panacea to turn a so-so trigger into a great trigger. Sometimes it helps; sometimes it reduces reliability (light strikes on the primer). Great triggers are the result of great design and manufacturing precision.
 
Thank you all very much for your opinions. I decided that for me and my wants I would be best served by a CMC 3 1/2 lb flat trigger. It fits my needs and I like it.
 
Back
Top