Richard Simmons
Member
I've used Corrosion X for probably 10-12 years with no issues. I also use high temp bearing grease on the rails of my semi-autos.
Frog Lube
- Thread starter bassoneer
- Start date
Sigsavvy
Member
Was checking out this topic because my LGS got some FL in and he was trying to sell me some. I was tempted but passed. I was wondering what others thought. I do really enjoy reading about everyone's favorite method for cleaning and protecting / lubricating their guns.
My method is Hoppes 9 solvent and Militec-1 oil and grease. Never had any issues. In fact, my guns were in my father in law's gun cabinet for over 4 years after we moved out of state and I got too busy to worry about getting them out to me. When I finally did have them shipped to me I was really worried about what condition they would be in. They ended up looking like the day I put them away and functioned just fine. That put enough confidence in my method to keep using it.
My method is Hoppes 9 solvent and Militec-1 oil and grease. Never had any issues. In fact, my guns were in my father in law's gun cabinet for over 4 years after we moved out of state and I got too busy to worry about getting them out to me. When I finally did have them shipped to me I was really worried about what condition they would be in. They ended up looking like the day I put them away and functioned just fine. That put enough confidence in my method to keep using it.
flintsghost
Member
Unfortunately, despite all the press to the contrary, firearms should use oil. Sig recommends a very thin white grease that comes with their guns and I've used it. CLP was developed for the M16 due to failures in RVN at the beginning. Colt used to sell a Colt lube in tubes. From an armorers standpoint, the two best lubricants are still Rem oil and Singer Sewing Machine oil. Singer oil is the cheapest and best in my opinion. It's available at Sewing Machine and Fabric stores. It it will keep high speed gears and motor parts lube at as high a rpm's as sewing machines run, then it's good for guns. I've used it for 30 years. It's slightly thicker than Rem oil but not by much. It's also cheap at $1.29 a bottle which holds 4 times what a Rem Oil bottle holds. If it was gun oil it would cost $10 a bottle.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
USGI LIGHT WEAPONS OIL on firing pins just a light film.
USGI LIGHT WEAPONS OIL in the bores
TS-70 moly for all metal to metal contact areas.
USGI LIGHT WEAPONS OIL in the bores
TS-70 moly for all metal to metal contact areas.
What I don't understand...
Ok, this threads been around for a while, but anytime the subject of "who's lube do you use?" I see a lot of kudos for 'Frog Lube'. It seems word would have gotten around, but I still hear people saying they use it.
Personally, I use products that have some description like 'gun oil' and 'gun cleaning solvent' and have no desire to delve into the lube business as to what interestingly labeled product is best for guns.
Some of my gun manuals plainly say, "oil" but people insist on finding some secret lube that is better than any gun oil.
Ok, this threads been around for a while, but anytime the subject of "who's lube do you use?" I see a lot of kudos for 'Frog Lube'. It seems word would have gotten around, but I still hear people saying they use it.
Personally, I use products that have some description like 'gun oil' and 'gun cleaning solvent' and have no desire to delve into the lube business as to what interestingly labeled product is best for guns.
Some of my gun manuals plainly say, "oil" but people insist on finding some secret lube that is better than any gun oil.
Harrison
US Veteran
I think that Ballistol Oil has been in use for about a hundred years, or slightly more. I think it works great.
I bought a big can of Ballistol last week. Read a bunch of positive reviews and it was a reasonable price for a big can. In my case it was a big mistake, if I had known it was so stinky I would have not got it. It stunk up the house bad.
CAJUNLAWYER
Member
I'm no marketing guru but I suspect they would sell more Frog Lube than Toad Lube.
Yeah, Ballistol smells like dirty socks... I used Ballistol for quite a while, but have moved on. I found that it did a nice job as a general cleaner, good with removing carbon deposits, but it is not useful with copper. Always had to use other solvents to truly get a bore clean. I did like using it on the exterior and to clean the gunk out of the frame and slide. I also liked that it is mild, and non toxic.
However, and most concerning, I found that guns treated with Ballistol for longer term storage resulted in mild surface rust. Fortunately, I caught it early, and it wiped right off, but I was not impressed with Ballistol's corrosion resistance! This is in a climate controlled room, in a safe , with a Golden Rod.
YMMV, but I've found better products.
Now that it is cooler I use gun oil - mostly CLP when I'm at the range but Ezox when I'm cleaning em up afterward at home. During the summer when it gets to 100F+ I often switch to TW25 grease or lithium grease of some sort. Stays put but does need more cleaning afterward. Got some slide Glide to try this summer. Tried Slip2000, RemOil, ProGolld100 and many many others (never could pay the FL asking price though).
Henry24
Member
Well...another one who found out the hard way about the gummy/syrup problem with FL. I did NOT use an excess of it - but it was obviously too much...evidently. Couple guns that sat during colder months now have had to be completely taken down, cleaned in and out, etc. What a mess!
I tried this product because I have a wife with extreme allergic-reaction/sensitivity to strong smells...so you can imagine the chore gun-cleaning is for me! Hence why Hoppes and such are an issue. Not because they don't work - but because they stink.(and yes, she can smell it from the garage!) So, I gave it a shot - what a waste of money. If some have had luck wit h it, great. But I have had none, and would seriously caution anyone against this product...or at least be very aware of this tendency to turn to syrup under various circumstances.
I have had really good luck and clearly should have stayed with m-Pro 7 products. I've also had really good results lube-wise with Breakthrough "Battle Born" oil.
Ah well, we live and learn...sometimes the hard way. I was suspicious of this product, and really should have gone with my instincts.
I tried this product because I have a wife with extreme allergic-reaction/sensitivity to strong smells...so you can imagine the chore gun-cleaning is for me! Hence why Hoppes and such are an issue. Not because they don't work - but because they stink.(and yes, she can smell it from the garage!) So, I gave it a shot - what a waste of money. If some have had luck wit h it, great. But I have had none, and would seriously caution anyone against this product...or at least be very aware of this tendency to turn to syrup under various circumstances.
I have had really good luck and clearly should have stayed with m-Pro 7 products. I've also had really good results lube-wise with Breakthrough "Battle Born" oil.
Ah well, we live and learn...sometimes the hard way. I was suspicious of this product, and really should have gone with my instincts.
Safestuffer
Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2014
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If you are a fan of frog lube, but are a little put off at the price,
It's easy to make your own.
Coconut oil, and a bit of mint extract, and a bit of green food coloring if you want the authentic frog lube look
I have never tried frog lube,
but now that it looks like that's all it is,
I might work up a small batch and see if I like it.
https://www.northeastshooters.com/v...g-Lube-is-Coconut-Oil-You-heard-it-here-first
It's easy to make your own.
Coconut oil, and a bit of mint extract, and a bit of green food coloring if you want the authentic frog lube look
I have never tried frog lube,
but now that it looks like that's all it is,
I might work up a small batch and see if I like it.
https://www.northeastshooters.com/v...g-Lube-is-Coconut-Oil-You-heard-it-here-first
I was going to ask if anyone else used this besides me. Being a new shooter myself, i decides to try it after watching so many Hickock 45 episodes! Works nicely. I clean my revolver, then hand dry it, then use the product lightly where i need it. Today i opened up the side plate and gave it a deep cleaning!
Whitwabit
US Veteran
I've used Frog lube for 2 years and no problems .. if firing pin was sticking you must have gotten some down into it .. or it was dirty in the first place and then some frog lube got on it and gummed it up .. I've heard of that happening ..
Did you heat the metal after applying and then wiped it off .. you don't say how you applied it !!
you don't leave it wet wipe it off after applying one of the slickest things I've used ..
Guess each one of us cleans ours differently ..
Did you heat the metal after applying and then wiped it off .. you don't say how you applied it !!
you don't leave it wet wipe it off after applying one of the slickest things I've used ..
Guess each one of us cleans ours differently ..
OLDSTER
Member
Hoppes and 3-in-1 sewing machine oil for nearly 50 years 
cmj8591
Member
Actually, it's soy based. No one other than the people making it and the FDA who tested it know the exact composition.
Apparently a lot of people using this stuff have an aversion to following instructions. The thing is that after you apply it to a warm gun, once the gun cools you have to wipe the excess off. The gun should be DRY when you are done. If you can feel it or the gun has syrup oozing from it you need to wipe it off. I use this stuff on a duty gun that I carry every day in all climate conditions and I have found it to work very well. Anyone who carries a gun day to day knows that oil is a magnet for dirt, dust, lint and all manners of flotsam and jetsam that you might come in contact with. With properly applied Frog Lube, my gun stays clean in my holster. My advise to those of you who are not having good results is, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!
Targets Guy
US Veteran
I was just about to pick up some Frog Lube. Hmm.
I have used Hoppe's since about 1950 and it has not let me down. My '47 K-22 just keeps on turning and turning. Tried some ballistol a few years back and like that as well. It is also great for leather. Haven't tried CLP but hear nothing but good things about it.
Just lately gotten into semi's. So I'll store this info up in case I start having problems.
I have used Hoppe's since about 1950 and it has not let me down. My '47 K-22 just keeps on turning and turning. Tried some ballistol a few years back and like that as well. It is also great for leather. Haven't tried CLP but hear nothing but good things about it.
Just lately gotten into semi's. So I'll store this info up in case I start having problems.
hogblue
Member
I've found M Pro 7 to be the best carbon solvent so far. Mobil one 5w30 is my choice for oil.
model70hunter
Member
Frog lube instructions;
#1, remove the frog before application.
#2, after removing the frog, set the rest on the work bench,
#3, apply Breakfree, Hoppes, Rem oil or othe similar gun oils
#4, take froglube back an trade for a bottle of Hoppes.
#5, take the legs from the removed frog, see step 1, Heat
a skillet to 275 degrees add oil, dip the legs in flour and enjoy.
#1, remove the frog before application.
#2, after removing the frog, set the rest on the work bench,
#3, apply Breakfree, Hoppes, Rem oil or othe similar gun oils
#4, take froglube back an trade for a bottle of Hoppes.
#5, take the legs from the removed frog, see step 1, Heat
a skillet to 275 degrees add oil, dip the legs in flour and enjoy.
It seems a lot of people here don't understand the proper use of lubes and oils. For the most effective protection and desirable lubrication properties, there is no 'one size fits all' solution. All springs require is a light coating of thin oil and should never be greased unless for storage. Thin oil is Rem Oil, Hoppes oil or Singer oil, not motor oil. For wear surfaces, such as slides, a thin coating of light grease provides more protection against wear. For short term, motor oil can be substituted for grease, but a thin coating of grease will last longer and provide a better metal to metal buffer. Note in both of these sentences, the use of the word 'light'. Heavy oils and grease are not needed nor desired in hand guns, rifles or shotguns. We aren't talking rocket science or use of machine guns, tanks or bazookas. For proper lubrication to be effective, other conditions must be met, such as cleaning periodically. All oil is subject to the effects of gravity, and therefore will eventually leave the surface it is applied to, requiring cleaning and reapplication. Additionally, all oils and grease, synthetic or natural will hold or trap dirt particles. While dry lube avoids this condition, it does not offer the same lubrication properties as oil and grease, not matter what the manufacturer may claim. Other substitutes for the above mentioned products will work, such as motor oil, bearing grease, bear fat, etc,. but they are not the proper lube to use. It's a case of just because you can doesn't mean you should. As a parting note, WD40 in not a lubricant. The WD stands for Water Displacement. After using it, the surface will eventually dry and very little lubricant will be left, offering almost no protection to moisture, and very poor lubrication properties.
