M&p 9C striker spring needs replacing.

Steve912 said:
Sounds like your heart is set on keeping non-OEM
parts in there...

On the chance that it's not the aftermarket stuff,
no one's mentioned cleaning out the striker channel
AND the bore of the striker safety.

Both areas accumulate brass/primer shavings, carbon,
and miscellaneous gunk. Accumulation of said gunk will
cushion and/or retard forward movement of striker, and
result in light strikes.

If both areas are clear, go back to the beginning...;)
Click to expand...

Yep.

An interesting (to me, anyway) bit of trivia picked up in one of my earlier M&P pistol armorer classes ...

The reason S&W engineers decided to locate the striker block plunger at the rear of the striker channel was to help prevent fouling being channeled into it from the firing pin hole in the breech face.

Unfortunately, this put the block/plunger close to the rear slot opening, where inattentive owners/users might mistakenly introduce excessive liquids during cleaning & lubrication practices.

If the introduction of liquids (which can also attract fouling and form "goo") can be prevented, the rear location of the safety block does tend to remain cleaner than if located right behind the front of the firing pin/striker hole, where hot gasses can push fouling into the channel via the breech face hole.

Well, when owners/users decide to slather cleaning solvents and CLP's all over the breech face for cleaning (and not keeping the breech face pointed down, so gravity helps keep liquids from flowing into the channel), and studiously brush wetness down into into the breech face hole, liquids and other contaminants carried by the liquids can find their way into a forward-located safety block/plunger, too.

These are just a couple of the many things inattentive or uniformed owners/users can do which may cause functioning issues, and which keeps armorers scratching their heads wondering how something got so dirty and/or wet inside the slide. :confused:

Actual gun problems pale compared to problems caused by owner/user practices, modifications, etc.

Keeps the gun plumbers and aftermarket companies in business, though.
 
Last edited:
changemyoil66 said:
So opened the trigger loop from 5000ths to 24000ths and still same problem. At 24, trigger was also dead (no click/reset). Then opened loop more and total dead trigger.

Called apex and they said to close the loop more when it was at 5000. They said i should have closed it instead of opening it. Idk if i can close it less than 5000th. As in loop closed and touching.

Will call apex tomorrow. Entire apex kit is installed. Trigger, springs, sear, block, etc...(part 100-155)

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Click to expand...


Just as a FYI, it may not be applicable to your case at all, but after changing my stock Shield 2.0 9mm trigger to an Apex action enhanced trigger, and then experiencing some light strikes, I had to adjust my trigger bar loop "closed" by .005, down to .016. My original gap was approximately .021. It's been flawless since.
 
Turq said:
Just as a FYI, it may not be applicable to your case at all, but after changing my stock Shield 2.0 9mm trigger to an Apex action enhanced trigger, and then experiencing some light strikes, I had to adjust my trigger bar loop "closed" by .005, down to .016. My original gap was approximately .021. It's been flawless since.
Click to expand...
That was an option, but mine started at 0.005 and it wont close any further.

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I was getting more and more FTF as the gun heated up. turns out the striker was dragging on the plunger and it got worse as the heat built up. I removed the plunger (I have a CORE so it was easy) and no more FTF. So, a plunger/trigger bar timing problem. I do have Apex Triggers in all 3 of my M&Ps. I cut down the slide/striker plate (spare) so I can get a dowel inserted to check the travel of the striker. It was dragging and not moving freely when trigger depressed. I had to adjust my pre and over travel to make sure the timing was correct. For those with M1.0 its the loop adjustment. This is also a good way to make sure the plunger is not prematurely being depressed, not safe.

If you are getting FTF with a stock pistol then send it back to S&W for repair.

YMMV.

IMG_5554.JPG
 
pmc847 said:
I removed the plunger (I have a CORE so it was easy) and no more FTF. I do have Apex Triggers in all 3 of my M&Ps.
Click to expand...

And don't drop it with a round chambered, EVER---and you're
good to go!

Apex triggers, mmm K!
 
changemyoil66, I installed the Apex Forward Set Sear kit in a customers M1.0 M&P9 fullsized and ran into a similar problem. I adjusted the loop, replaced the trigger bar with a newer version and no matter what I tried, I still got periodic light strikes. Tigger would reset but it was apparent that the striker was dragging on the striker block just enough to retard forward movement. Re-installed the factory striker block and with more adjustment of the loop, finally got the gun firing 100%. I worked on this gun for weeks and had it apart so many times I was worried about wearing out the roll pin holes in the frame. Returned the gun to the customer and thought all was finally good and then I got "the " call. Damn gun was light striking again. I suggested he talk to Apex about letting one of their smiths take a look at the gun and he finally gave them a call. Apex e-mailed him a list of photos they wanted and of various sub assemblies. Customer brought the gun over and we got all the requested photos & he sent them off to Apex. Within a short period of time Apex forwarded a replacement set of parts that were spec'd out to address some frame, sear block and slide tolerance issues (stacking of tolerance issues). All provided parts were installed and finally the gun worked as it should. So there is hope, some are just problem children. I've installed dozens of the Apex kits without any issues but this one gun about caused me to lose my mind.
 
I got a list of pics apex needs. Been on vacay, so havent had time to send them to them yet. Carried my vp9 IWB.



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Apex sent me the 7 dot sear. Hope this helps. Will post after next range visit.
bb4f15de9a2713d89cea5f01811e389d.jpg


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That's the sear they sent to try in the problem gun I referenced above. It did the job and got the gun running. Trigger pull was a little harder than a "normal" Apex FSS M&P trigger.
 
mckenney99 said:
That's the sear they sent to try in the problem gun I referenced above. It did the job and got the gun running. Trigger pull was a little harder than a "normal" Apex FSS M&P trigger.
Click to expand...
They said the sear and spring combo will add 1lb to the pull. In fine with that because the lighter one was a little too light for ccw carry comfort.

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This thread hurts my head... the aftermarket striker spring weights (if you changed them) don’t reliably ignite rounds which is bad, or you have messed with the striker block safety system which is bad, or aftermarket dimensions of the trigger bar (if you changed them) have prevented proper function of the striker block or striker assembly...which is bad.

At this point, my only advise is that you have rendered your handgun unsafe and need to stop. Have S&W return your pistol to factory specs or, if you’re only looking for range/competition shooting, get a competent smith to look at it.

Please don’t carry this gun for serious work... even if you “think” you solved this problem.
 
So finally got to test the 9c with the new sear and spring. 200rds and no malfunctions. Seems to be fixed.

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