Pellet rifles?

I agree with the others to look at an RWS or other Beman imported made rifle. I'd avoid the Spanish and Chinese made guns if you're looking for best quality. The RWS 34 is a good gun that won't break the bank. The Beman R9 is a great gun as well for just a little more money.

The fixed barrel guns (under and side lever cocking guns) normally hold a slight accuracy advantage, but I have several break barrels that shoot very well and offer more than enough hunting accuracy for my uses.
 
Break Barrel air rifles are very hard to obtain consistent accuracy, due to the barrel lock-up/movement, and, forward/rearward recoiling of the spring/piston. Proper hold (artillery hold) and trigger control are very important as well. After playing that break-barrel game over several years with some pretty expensive RWS's, Beeman's, and a few other break-barrel rifles, and, not wanting to get into the whole PCP world of air rifles, I opted for an under-cocker. With an under-cocking lever, the barrel is always in a fixed position, thus, enhancing consistent accuracy. Some of the best under-lever cockers are the Air Arms TX200, or, the Wiehrauch HW97K. Another top tier under-cocker (which is what I ended up with), is the Air Arms Pro Sport. It's not inexpensive by any means, but, if you really enjoy shooting air rifles, and, actually like hitting what your aiming at, an under-cocking lever (or PCP) rifle is the way to go. I still have my Gamo Black Cat .177 that stays in my barn for rodents and such. But, for some serious shootin', it's my Pro Sport!

Air Arms Pro Sport .177 with walnut stock, 2 stage fully adjustable target trigger, Lothar-Walther match grade barrel, built-in moderator.
BKL 1 piece mount, Weaver V-16 Classic 4.5-16x42AO scope.

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That is beautiful.

I didn't suggested it because it was said "break barrel" from the OP.
 
The world of air rifles can be a lesson in frustration. The ones really into it go so far as to buy pellet sizers, weigh their pellets, and the list goes on and on. For a decent, accurate, mid-range rifle look at the Diana 45 if your main focus is varmints. If you expect more, save your money, do some research, and buy the best rifle your money can buy. Just remember accuracy standards for an air rifle is 33 feet (10 meters) Beyond that it's a **** shoot.
Another thing to remember. With spring piston type air rifles if you are going to scope it, you MUST use an air rifle grade scope. I have seen these guns shake the guts smooth out of Leupold and similar quality scopes in a matter of a few shots.
 
The world of air rifles can be a lesson in frustration. The ones really into it go so far as to buy pellet sizers, weigh their pellets, and the list goes on and on. For a decent, accurate, mid-range rifle look at the Diana 45 if your main focus is varmints. If you expect more, save your money, do some research, and buy the best rifle your money can buy. Just remember accuracy standards for an air rifle is 33 feet (10 meters) Beyond that it's a **** shoot.
Another thing to remember. With spring piston type air rifles if you are going to scope it, you MUST use an air rifle grade scope. I have seen these guns shake the guts smooth out of Leupold and similar quality scopes in a matter of a few shots.

Just remember that in ISSF 10 meter air rifle competition the 10 ring is a 1mm dot, and you only score a 10 if you completey obliterate the dot.
 
With spring piston type air rifles if you are going to scope it, you MUST use an air rifle grade scope. I have seen these guns shake the guts smooth out of Leupold and similar quality scopes in a matter of a few shots.

Actually Leupold rates their scopes for spring gun used. I've used Leupolds on RWS 350's and 48's (both scope killers) with zero problems. Bushnell Elites will also hold up. Burris told me their scopes are spring gun rated, but I killed two Burris scopes on an RWS 350.

Some of the cheapo "airgun" scopes will work on low powered spring guns, but generally don't hold up on the magnums.
 
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I have been debating what to do for a new air rifle. With the money spent on a good springer, you could get into a nice PCP air rifle. I hate everything about springers and the violence of the piston when the trigger is pulled.

I am having a hard time spending the money on such because I “Need” another revolver.
 
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I have been debating what to do for a new air rifle. With the money spent on a good springer, you could get into a nice PCP air rifle. I hate everything about springers and the violence of the piston when the trigger is pulled.

I am having a hard time spending the money on such because I “Need” another revolver.

You can always get this.:D

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But it will cost you.:rolleyes:
 

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I have an RWS M34 in .22 caliber with a Hawke 4X mil dot adjustable objective airgun scope and Hawke mount. It's very important to get an airgun scope and mount with a spring air because they can ruin a good centerfire riflescope, even Leupold occaisionaly. The Mil dots really help with longer range aiming because those .22 pellets drop like a rock when they go past 30 yards. The only negative with my rig is, the elevation will get off sometimes after a lot of shooting because of the barrel droop at the hinge point. This is not a problem with iron sights since they are both attached to the barrel but it is a little annoying when using a scope. If I was doing it a again I would be tempted to get the RWS side cocker .22 pellet gun. Also a pellet pen is a must have item.

[ame="https://www.amazon.com/Pellet-Pen-Holds-177-cal-Pellets/dp/B07SD7H1XH"]Pellet Pen, Holds 20 .177-cal Pellets (New Version) - - Amazon.com[/ame]
 
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I have an RWS M34 in .22 caliber with a Hawke 4X mil dot adjustable objective airgun scope and Hawke mount. It's very important to get an airgun scope and mount with a spring air because they can ruin a good centerfire riflescope, even Leupold occaisionaly. The Mil dots really help with longer range aiming because those .22 pellets drop like a rock when they go past 30 yards. The only negative with my rig is, the elevation will get off sometimes after a lot of shooting because of the barrel droop at the hinge point. This is not a problem with iron sights since they are both attached to the barrel but it is a little annoying when using a scope. If I was doing it a again I would be tempted to get the RWS side cocker .22 pellet gun. Also a pellet pen is a must have item.

Pellet Pen, Holds 20 .177-cal Pellets (New Version) - - Amazon.com
I ask what is a pellet-pen?
 
I ask what is a pellet-pen?

It's a 'pen-like' looking tool that's also known as a 'pellet depth seater'. The tip of the tool fits into the 'skirt' of the pellet as you push the pellet forward (aka: 'seating' the pellet) into the chamber. With the use of the tool you can obtain consistent seating/depth of the pellet each and every time. You can buy them, or, just use an appropriate size ballpoint pen. They aren't anything fancy.

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It's a 'pen-like' looking tool that's also known as a 'pellet depth seater'. The tip of the tool fits into the 'skirt' of the pellet as you push the pellet forward (aka: 'seating' the pellet) into the chamber. With the use of the tool you can obtain consistent seating/depth of the pellet each and every time. You can buy them, or, just use an appropriate size ballpoint pen. They aren't anything fancy.

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I was just waiting to mention the ballpoint pen :). We used them for years to seat pellets.
 
That is beautiful.

I didn't suggested it because it was said "break barrel" from the OP.

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Thanks. It shoots a good as it looks. No, Better! I know the OP said 'break-barrel', but, if anyone is serious about getting a 'springer' that actually shoots well, an under-lever (or side-cocker), is the way to go. Just plan on spending around $600.00+ for a good one!;) Don't expect too much out of a break-barrel no matter how much they cost! Been there, done that.....
 
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The only negatives I find with fixed barrel spring guns is increased weight, which may or may not be an issue, and some are a bit slower to load which also may not be an issue outside of hunting.

I disagree about not expecting accuracy out of break barrel guns though. For pure target work like field target matches, the fixed barrels due rule, but I've owned some very accurate break barrel guns. I have a Finewerkbau 124 Deluxe that shoots extremely well. My R9 is also pretty good. MY RWS 350 wasn't a target gun (few magnum rifles are), but it shot as well as my RWS 48 side lever.
 
To me, cocking effort and the noise created upon firing are factors. I have used a match rifle in .177 for pest control and for that I think that .22 caliber is better. Greater velocity than the 560 fps developed by match rifles is a plus as well. I'm not spending several hundreds of dollars on an air rifle to be used for back yard pest control. A lot depends on the OP's intended use.
 
Knocking the front sight back on my new Umarex made substantial improvement on my new rifle's accuracy!

Just as important it seems is mastering the gun itself....like not letting the pistol grip contact the shooting bench(shoots high if I do). A tight grip on the thing seems to help too.

I believe I can cope with the accuracy now and I got the 'iron' sights dialed in good enough to hit a bullseye at 20 yards.

Looking over the supplied Umarex/Chinese 4x30 scope and it ain't much. The view is clear in the center...but distorted around the edges. I've heard spring/air guns can be hard on scopes...will a budget 4x30 scope like Tasco/Simmons etc hold together on an air rifle?
 
OK, I gotta ask: what's the "artillery hold"?

Re-reading this called to mind that I've seen forming dies to uniform your pellets. Can't recall where.....if Gil Hebard is still in business you might check them. Drop your pellet in the die, insert the spud and a more uniform pellet drops out. I expect it flares the skirts.
 
OK, I gotta ask: what's the "artillery hold"?

Since the piston/spring on springer air rifles recoil both forward and rearward, you do not want to pull the rifle stock hard into your shoulder, or, hold a tight grip on the fore end, like you normally would with a center fire rifle. You want the entire rifle to move freely. The 'artillery hold' refers artillery guns such as a Howitzer, where the barrel recoils in both directions.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kV7zqBcW83Y[/ame]

https://www.pyramydair.com/article/The_artillery_hold_June_2009/63
 
If it has to be a break barrel, I think that Weihrauch is hard to beat. My HW35E is running well since decades.



Just for fun, the old Chinese AK trainers are hard to beat. I paid $39 at Kiesler's a couple of decades ago and the rifle still shoots well.

 
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