Gun Safe Question

Racer X said:
Unless it is a Duracell. Seriously. Just use Ray O Vac or Energizer.
Click to expand...

Last summer I had a set of electronic hearing protectors ruined by leaking Duracell batteries. Then I had a low primer sensor on one of my Dillon 550s trashed the same way. I was out in the shop this afternoon powder coating bullets. While they were in the oven I decided to remove the battery from a two month old Chinese knock off ACOG that I put on my AR22. (This is still a $400 sight). I had unexpected difficulty removing the cap from the battery compartment. After getting it loose with a pair of pliers I saw why. The fresh Duracell Optimum AA that I had installed as a temporary had leaked in the sight and made one hell of a mess.

I had already sworn off Duracell and gone to Energizer after the hearing protector and the primer sensor were ruined. My wife came home from Sam's one day with a 4 pack of the Optimum AA's and said they were free. You paid for them at checkout and the cost was deducted from the total. I figured it would not hurt to use one for a short time to get the rifle sighted in and then swap it out. I was wrong. I will not only never buy Duracell again, I will never use them if someone gives them to me.
 
VaTom said:
My Liberty has a back up key access. The electronic lock has not been a problem in over 7 years. Changed 9volt battery once. Easy to do.
Click to expand...

I forget who the safe guy is on the forum, but he’s addressed those backup key access locks in the past by stating that you don’t have a safe, you have a locker . . .
 
Years ago I bought an LED lamp assembly that mirrors the round top of the dial combo lock assembly. It has a magnet on the back to attach to the safe door. Walk up and push the button and the light shines on the combo numbers at the 12 o'clock position. Works pretty good.

My first safe was purchased new over forty years ago.
About a year ago I started to get concerned over the resistance the dial was exhibiting.

I had some communications with a gentleman here on the board and he instructed me on doing maintenance on the lock set.

My life's work has been taking things apart and repairing 'things'.

But, I was feeling a bit of trepidation over tackling this.

I really knew I could do it... But, one failure and you know the rest.

So, I called a local locksmith. He was referred to me by someone that enlisted their services frequently.

Best money ever spent.

I emptied everything out before he arrived.

He got in there and accessed the internals. There were very small particulates of metal in the bottom of the lock enclosure. I knew there would be. I could feel it working the combo.

He dusted and cleaned out the tumblers and applied the proper lubricants.

I test drove the opening and closing and anything I could do to generate a hiccup in the action.

It turned out absolutely wonderful.
Smooth as silk. Just the way it was over 40 years ago.

I can't recall, off the top of my head, what the actual cost was. I believe it was around $125.00 for his complete service.

Money well spent. I would not hesitate to do it again and pay that price for the insurance he afforded me.

That is my experience.
I personally would not buy a safe with a digital keypad.
I have to go with what I know.

bdGreen

 
If you have any safe that uses a barrel (tubular) key as a back-up entry mechanism, that point is the weak link in your security. I watched ONE YouTube video, bought a set of three tubular lock picks on eBay for $25, and went around my house and opened EVERY barrel-type lock I owned - including the ignition on my Harley! :mad:

Regardless, I have no easy solution to this issue. Frankly if you believe ANY keyed lock is secure then you don't want to watch the videos from "The Lockpicking Lawyer"! :eek:
 
Racer X said:
Unless it is a Duracell. Seriously. Just use Ray O Vac or Energizer.
Click to expand...

Agree, I have been using Duracell Procell batteries for years. Lately I have had batteries leaking, AA, and still measured 1.455 volts, far from dead. I called Duracell and they sent me a coupon for 20 bucks toward their batteries. Disclaimer, I used the coupon.
 
You can still get a Liberty safe with dial lock, at least on their entry level Centurion line.
 
My KODIAK safe came with the battery powered lock and an option to upgrade to a nice S and G old school rotary dial lock.

I think you can convert about any safe to whichever lock you prefer.
 
Johnnu2 said:
I would wonder if, after many years of use, would the key pad show enough signs of wear, and facilitate the smart kids in opening dad's safe.....?

J.
Click to expand...

My safe is 14 years old. I don't see any discernable wear on the key pad.
 
ghawke said:
Agree, I have been using Duracell Procell batteries for years. Lately I have had batteries leaking, AA, and still measured 1.455 volts, far from dead. I called Duracell and they sent me a coupon for 20 bucks toward their batteries. Disclaimer, I used the coupon.
Click to expand...

Cheaper to send out those coupons to the few that complain than to make the batteries the way they used to.
 
I bought a Fort Knox safe with an S&G dial lock almost 35 years ago. I accessed that safe every work day twice a day for almost 20 years and the combo dial started to develop slop that would result in the combo not working properly and it kept getting progressively worse.

When I moved I bought 3 additional vaults and when the dealer was delivering those electronic combo vaults I mentioned to him about the problems I was having with the S&G combo lock. He took one look at the guts and told me the mechanism was seriously loose and it was a good thing we caught it when we did or it could have been an expensive access and repair job. Moral of the story, even dial combo locks require maintenance by someone who knows what they are doing.
 
For those that don’t know me, I’m a professional locksmith of close to 29 years. I currently work for the DOD.

We use the most expensive digital safe locks available. And they fail. I’ve seen it hundreds of times.

I would only buy a rotary lock and ask the sales person to convert it. I wouldn’t pay much to do this because rotary locks cost less. But then there’s labor which shouldn’t cost much if anything at all.

Digital locks are much more convenient but unreliable. And gun safes are not designed for quick access.

I recommend Liberty.
 
I personally would only buy a conventional dial safe - but that's just me. I simply don't trust the electronic ones. I know a few guys that have had multiple problems with electronic locks and have had to replace them after much aggravation. For the few times a week most people might open it - I see no big deal about dialing a few numbers.
 
chief38 said:
I personally would only buy a conventional dial safe - but that's just me. I simply don't trust the electronic ones. I know a few guys that have had multiple problems with electronic locks and have had to replace them after much aggravation. For the few times a week most people might open it - I see no big deal about dialing a few numbers.
Click to expand...

Hey, I still have some dial telephones in my house.
 
I should add that any safe that has a key override in case of battery failure is not nearly as secure. The key override is a major weakness that can be easily bypassed.

People say that gun safes are not safes but residential security containers. This is incorrect. Residential security container is a safe classification.

People also say that if they really want to get in, they will. This is true. I have yet to come upon a lock that can resist power tools. But don’t make it easy. Thieves don’t usually bring power tools and safe moving equipment with them.

Harden the perimeter doors of your home. Bolt down the safe.

Consider the fire rating of the safe. The longer the fire dept response the higher the rating you need.

Keep the safe in an area where the temperature is constant. The frequent rise and fall of ambient temperature is not good. Mine is in the garage which is not heated.

Keep in mind that in the event of fire, the fire dept will hose down your house. This causes a lot of condensation. The fire seal on the safe door will expand when exposed to heat and contract when cools. This allows condensation to form inside the safe. Use gun socks. Dehumidifiers are great but not when there’s no power. I use both.

Have the safe delivered and installed. They have the equipment as well as liability insurance.
 
I have a conventional combination lock on my Liberty. I don't like the electronic locks for one reason . . . electro magnetic pulse.

The recent winter weather, especially as it impacted Texas, shows how vulnerable our electrical grid is and an EMP would be an cheap and easy way for enemies, foreign and domestic, to take out the grid. I don't think electronic safe locks would fair well pursuant to an EMP event.
 
Last edited:
Golddollar said:
Hey, I still have some dial telephones in my house.
Click to expand...

I've got 13 phones and 5 of them are dial phones. :D You would be shocked just how much younger people fumble to dial one - and many of the kids are blown away when I give them a 1905 Candle Stick phone to answer a call with - still works! :)

The two single best tone quality comes from two of the Western Electric 1950's - 1960's cradle phones.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

jscheck
Safe moving
2 3
Replies
43
Views
972
AJ
AJ
tlawler
Well, this isn’t safe!
Replies
12
Views
707
GypsmJim
GypsmJim
R
fireproof gun safes
Replies
11
Views
631
Skeet 028
S
chief38
QUESTION REGARDING MECHANICAL GUN SAFE LOCKS
Replies
6
Views
709
BigBoy99
BigBoy99
B
Ladders for Ladies - Keep them SAFE $29.99
Replies
7
Views
553
SMSgt
SMSgt

Latest posts

Back
Top