Optics Ready M&P 2.0 Compact Striker Block Sticking

brettskywalker

brettskywalker

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I've only had this pistol a few weeks & put 350 rounds through it without a single malfunction. Cleaned it last night & after I was done, I pushed down on the striker block & it stuck down in the slide. I'm thinking either a piece of nylon bristle broke off the brush or I brushed a tiny piece of brass into the striker blocks channel, somehow, but don't really see how that's possible because of how tight the tolerance is. Anyone else had their striker block get stuck? Sucks because I have my red dot zeroed perfect for me & don't really want to remove it to inspect the block & channel. Is the Apex USB good to go on the 2.0 9mm compact? Appreciate any advice
 
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First - just try to clean it without removing striker block.
Remove striker from the channel, clean it. Clean striker channel and be sure nothing left there.
Reassemble and test it.

Regarding Apex USB - I installed this as a part of whole Apex set. Definitely their striker block plunger made trigger pull smoother. You can compare it with factory one to see how Apex's is rounded nicer.
 
Removing and replacing an RDS has never required re-zeroing for me.

Before you remove it, check your exact dot alignment with your irons, assuming they are co-witnessed. When you replace the RDS, your iron sights should not have moved, so just check your dot compared to the irons again. Should be exactly as it was when you removed it. If not, simply move the dot to where it was before dismounting. Easy peasey.
 
Clean the channel

Rather than you inducing something into the striker block channel, which is unlikely, I have found the the channel itself to be very rough on some guns.

Apparently the machining sequence of the striker safety channel being at right angles to the striker channel itself causes sharp edges at the juncture. A sharp edge can have a small amount break off and jam the block, IMO.

Having an RDS on your gun makes access to the striker channel easier than having to remove the rear sight on standard models. For me, accessing and polishing those two channels is SOP before shooting the gun and being disappointed with a gritty pull, or worse, your problem.

Adding a polished Apex Striker Block at the same time will improve your trigger pull noticeably. Polish other components while you are in there—especially the contacting surfaces of the trigger bar. Avoid removing the trigger bar unless you are replacing the trigger. Reinserting the trigger axis pin, even using a slave pin, is a challenge that typically takes more than one try (six).
 
I had this issue with the 5" CORE kit I bought for my 1.0. When I first dry fired it, I was WOW!! (still had the 1.0 trigger). Took it to the range and went through a couple of boxes. WOW again. When I stripped to clean I noticed the dome shaped striker block appeared retracted into the slide. Pressing on it did not make it pop out. I realized that the striker block was stuck.

I took the cover plate off to see the tear drop shaped plate that holds the striker block and spring in. I removed the screw to remove the block and check for any burrs. Didn't find any. Put back together and it was fine. My guess is that, when assembled, the spring was not seated properly and would bind up.

I didn't have my RMR at the time, but I don't think you'll affect zero by removing the optic.
 
Is the striker blocker plunger supposed to get stuck if you push it in as far it will go? I can push it in until it's flush with the slide, but push a little more & clicks, & is locked down. I removed the striker assembly, popped the plunger back up, put the striker assembly back in, re assembled the gun, cocked & dry fire about 20 times. The trigger felt normal & reset every time. That's why I am now wondering if I had been pushing in the plunger too far. It seems to function fine as long as I don't push it in as far as it will go. I guess I should try it on my 5inch 2.0 & see if it sticks when pushed as far as it will go. Also, Apex USB has been ordered
 
Yeah there is definitely something wrong the safety plunger. My 5inch 2.0 doesn't get stuck flush with slide when I push it in. It does get stuck partially depressed & as soon as I pull the striker back the plunger pops out. When I pull the striker back on my compact 2.0, the plunger remains stuck. Guess I'm going to pull the optic off & check the plunger channel. Maybe I can use this as a reason to go get the newest model with the updated trigger
 
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WTH?! So weird. Manually racking the slide & dry firing, with the plunger still stuck up inside the slide, the trigger feels completely normal. Take up, break & reset. After doing this 10x I looked at the plunger & it was still stuck up in the slide. Then I used the slide stop to hold the slide open, hit the slide stop to release it, tested the trigger, it felt the same, re racked it, checked the plunger & it had popped back out into its normal position. I just did this 5 more times, pushed the plunger in until it was stuck, dropped the slide using the slide stop, checked the trigger pull, & checked the plunger. It had popped back out to the normal position every time. Im still going to pull the optic off & check for debris in the plunger channel
 
brettskywalker said:
Here is a pic with the plunger in the stuck position
Click to expand...

As already posted - check if the spring isn't an issue. Once you remove the plate with optic, I'd suggest to polish outside of the plunger and check plunger channel for any imperfections.

And.. whos fur sits in the slide? :eek:
 
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Here are the slides from my FS. The one on the left is he 4.25" original slide. Note how far out the striker block sits.

The one on the right is from the CORE Kit. Note how far out it sits but it's rounded off similar to the APEX USB. Don't know if it is or not, but this is how it came from S&W.

IMG_0004_zpsswp1q1x0.jpg
 
@brettskywalker
When you push it into the slide and it sticks, can you push the striker forward past it? And if you pull the striker back against the spring tension does it pop back up?
 
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