Anyone fix their own mechanical watches?

They will not do just a mainspring replacement. To do the broken spring, they require doing a full service as well to the tune of $450-500 (estimated) which this watch is just not worth. I understand their position, but I don't need nor want a full service on this watch at this point.
 
My Seiko had a winding stem come off. I sent it to their repair facility in NJ. Cost $189.00 to fix it. Was worth that to me as my wife had bought it for me as a Christmas present about 15 years ago, she paid $500.00 for the watch back then.Seiko Wristwatch 1.jpg
 
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I collect watches, just got a F1 Honda Racing Team, Seiko Sportura, full kit NOS. I love these old Sportura's. I was a little disheartened to find out they use steel and plastic gears though-ugh.
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My dad and his brother were watchmakers, my uncle more so than my dad. I have all the tools and watch bench. Chocked with parts. One box is a wide variety of mainspring. Unfortunately it's in storage 1000 miles away. And my eyes and hands don't really allow me this type of work anymore.
 
I send my pocket watches to Glenn White in Wheeling, WV. He is very reasonable. They come and go by US Mail.

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I wish I knew how to work on watches as my mechanical Omega gains three minutes a day. I could buy a new Apple watch for what most places charge to clean and adjust them.
 
Rebuilt my Seiko Chronograph 6139 including changing the crystal with an OEM replacement. Bought in Japan in 1974 while in the Navy. Still have the original box, papers and receipt ($64.00) Worth many times that now days. Still runs and keep great time.
Rebuilt Accutron's for many years, had a seller in Chicago that sent me watches he bought on eBay for cheap, rebuilt them then he sold them for many times the amount he paid for them. Lots of 14K and 18K models.
Still have about 150 Accutron's in my collection and all the tools and parts to rebuild. Losing vision in my right kind of messed up my depth perception and my rebuilding days.

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I wish I knew how to work on watches as my mechanical Omega gains three minutes a day. I could buy a new Apple watch for what most places charge to clean and adjust them.

Before you get to the watch repair place - I'd recommend to check if it is magnetized. There are apps for the phones to do it.
If it is magnetized - Google "how to demagnetize watch" or similar query. It's very inexpensive comparing to the shop prices.
This is how I fixed my IWC when they started running ahead 2+ minutes/day.
 
I've been repairing and collecting watches for about 30 years now. There are two types of mainsprings, blue steel and white-alloy. The steel ones were what was used until the late 40s early 50s. They were fine when the watches used lubricants made with animal products like neatsfoot oil which typically lasted for only a couple of years before turning into a wax-like goo. The watch needed servicing that frequently. The blue spring would be discarded and a new one fitted. Synthetic lubricants changed all that. They lasted for decades and were terribly expensive. Enough to cover your thumbnail would last for years and cost about $25-50. At the same time companies like Hamilton invented an alloy that would be non magnetic and be immune to heat and cold, Elinvar. This alloy work carried over into mainsprings. Alloys that were unbreakable, immune to "Setting" or staying into a spiral forever and would be used over and over for a lifetime were developed. Get a new whitealloy spring and the problem will be solved. While a Pocket watch is easy to work on compared to a vintage automatic, they still are not like a firearm. The jewels are frequently cracked and rubbed into the plates. These watches did not have any shock resistance and frequently have broken staffs. It is folly to expect them to just shoot a spray of WD40 and wind it up. Reality is you'll use enough of the proper synthetic oil to coat your little finger nail. Maybe less... If you don't know what to use, (there are several types) where to put it and how to clean the parts, you will be wasting your time. You can buy a new alloy spring for an Illinois for about $25. I have hundreds of old new blue springs. PM me what size and jewel count maybe a photo of the watch. If I have a new blue spring, I'll send it to you. Illinois Watches were very good watches, especially their 60 hr Bun Specials. They are worth a few hundred bucks to have it done right. I just acquire a Hamilton US Navy comparing watch and it will bring a tear to your eye just looking at what we could do in this country at that time. US made the finest pocket watches in the world in those days. Nothing else came close. Right now these watches are the best bargain in collecting. Look at a Waltham Riverside Maximus, 23J with faceted diamond end stones. It is a work of industrial Art.
 
I've been repairing and collecting watches for about 30 years now. There are two types of mainsprings, blue steel and white-alloy. The steel ones were what was used until the late 40s early 50s. They were fine when the watches used lubricants made with animal products like neatsfoot oil which typically lasted for only a couple of years before turning into a wax-like goo. The watch needed servicing that frequently. The blue spring would be discarded and a new one fitted. Synthetic lubricants changed all that. They lasted for decades and were terribly expensive. Enough to cover your thumbnail would last for years and cost about $25-50. At the same time companies like Hamilton invented an alloy that would be non magnetic and be immune to heat and cold, Elinvar. This alloy work carried over into mainsprings. Alloys that were unbreakable, immune to "Setting" or staying into a spiral forever and would be used over and over for a lifetime were developed. Get a new whitealloy spring and the problem will be solved. While a Pocket watch is easy to work on compared to a vintage automatic, they still are not like a firearm. The jewels are frequently cracked and rubbed into the plates. These watches did not have any shock resistance and frequently have broken staffs. It is folly to expect them to just shoot a spray of WD40 and wind it up. Reality is you'll use enough of the proper synthetic oil to coat your little finger nail. Maybe less... If you don't know what to use, (there are several types) where to put it and how to clean the parts, you will be wasting your time. You can buy a new alloy spring for an Illinois for about $25. I have hundreds of old new blue springs. PM me what size and jewel count maybe a photo of the watch. If I have a new blue spring, I'll send it to you. Illinois Watches were very good watches, especially their 60 hr Bun Specials. They are worth a few hundred bucks to have it done right. I just acquire a Hamilton US Navy comparing watch and it will bring a tear to your eye just looking at what we could do in this country at that time. US made the finest pocket watches in the world in those days. Nothing else came close. Right now these watches are the best bargain in collecting. Look at a Waltham Riverside Maximus, 23J with faceted diamond end stones. It is a work of industrial Art.
Guess I am lucky as three of the watches in my post are Illinois watches and one is a Bunn Special. One is a Hamilton Railway Special. Then there is the foreigner in the bunch made by Longines.
 
An update on this. Dave Haynes was kind enough to send me some springs for my watch.

I was so close to complete success and then I created another problem for myself.

I got the watch apart, old broken spring out and the new spring in and reassembled. I thought something wasn't lined up quite right after initial reassembly (which it was not) so opened it up again and in the process of the second reassembly I managed to knock a jewel out of the bridge. I found it, and I think I can get it back in, but I do not have a jewelers screwdriver small enough to get into the screw slot. Time to buy some more tools.

To be continued!
 
I contacted the Illinois Watch Company (Thanks, H Richard for the info) and decided to take a gamble. Unless there is some additional damage I am unaware of, I'm 90% certain I know exactly what my Elgin watch needs. I've sent the watch to them in their pre-paid mailer and am just awaiting the estimate. The repair should be a broken balance staff and possibly a chipped jewel or two so I am hoping the cost won't be too prohibitive. If it is too outrageous then it should only cost me $35 to have the watch shipped back unrepaired, and I believe that to be reasonable.

I will post progress reports as I get additional information.
 
Success! With some more guidance from Dave I got the jewel back in. I can't believe how SMALL the jewel screws are.

Watch went back together smooth after that and I now have a running watch again!
 
First, I was going to note that there are good watch repair shops that you can find online. You could call Time Tech in Dallas at 972-644-1774 or Sergio's at 214-320-2007. Those folks can assist.

As for this:

Having confidence in your doctor helps. Never been a fan of the partial knee replacements. I figure one and done....

I do have a friend who got a partial knee replacement a few years ago, and he's doing great. In 2020, I had bilateral knee replacements done at the same time; I thought total replacement was a good plan, and both knees needed it, so done and done!

Secondary note on mechanical watches - if they are not used for a while then after you wind them they might not run and you will think that they'e broken. It's unlikely*. You need to get the internal parts to begin to spin, and it's easy. Hold the watch securely in your fingers and flip it outwards in the same manner as you would throw a Frisbee**. Throw it hard BUT DO NOT LET GO!!!! :D

If the watch is not broken it will begin to run. A jeweler taught me that trick.

*Make sure you do not overwind the watch.

**If the Frisbee trick fails after a couple of attempts, then you can conclude the watch is broken. I probably have a dozen vintage watches, some might already be antiques, and I rarely use them so it's typical for them to need the Frisbee spin, and the Frisbee trick gets them started every time.
 
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