My M28-2 .44 SPL Conversion Got Derailed

Murdock

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Okay, the project was not truly derailed, but has certainly been sidelined. This post went longer than intended, but you can skip past the angst and rage and just look at the last few paragraphs to cut to the chase.

As a Skeeter Skelton acolyte I always wanted a handy S&W .44 Special, but when I was young in the 1970s and early 1980s they were rare and commanded prices that were too high for me. Smith just wasn't making them anymore, and everybody wanted a magnum of some sort, which soaked up all of the new N frame production for years.

When Smith finally produced the M24-3 in the mid eighties they sold so quickly that I missed my chance at a 4-inch. Deciding that I once again would have to make my own if I was ever gonna have one I was able to get a new, 4-inch 44 Special barrel and cylinder from S&W while they still had some. Then, because life is unpredictable, a brand new 6.5 version that I could afford on a very tight budget popped up before they, too, were all gone. Forty years later I stil have it and enjoy it. Shot alot of field pistol silhouette with it using the classic, heavy Keith loads.

But I still wanted a 4-inch. Maybe 25 years ago I was in a LGS that had a 28-2 for $199 and I grabbed that sucker. It was the perfect host for the .44 parts in my stash, as it was mechanically excellent, finish-worn, but without rust, pitting, or signs of abuse. I waited until my head was in the right place a few years later (after finding another, 5-screw, S prefix, HP that I liked even more). I got to work on the conversion, using the Kuhnhausen shop manual, and taking my time.

Everything was going well. With the Special barrel mounted, I used my drill press to chase and clear the pin hole in the frame to prep for tapping the original barrel pin back into place. Using a small ball peen hammer to set the pin in, somehow the pin broke about halfway into the process. I attempted to remove the broken pin with a punch, but found that the punch was getting bent, yet the pin wasn't moving.

That's when I made a serious mistake: I used judgement, stopped what I was doing, and went to a professional.

Telling the gunsmith what the problem was, I asked him to simply drill out the pin remnant, and replace it with a new one. If that enlarged the original hole slightly I expected a new pin of appropriate size to be inserted. Simple. Just the stripped frame with the new barrel were left with the Smith. In fairness, this smith has done superb work on some nice shotguns, and other work.

A couple of weeks later I called to check on the job, and was told it was ready to be picked up. I said fine and started over on the 45 minute drive to get there. When I arrived the smith had a really embarassed look on his face. Apparently he had waited until I was on the way over to start the job. Somehow the frame came loose in his milling machine or drill press, spun around, and broke off a carbide drill bit in my frame. The entrance and exit of the pin hole were both bunged up, and there was a nasty scratch across the top strap and rear sight. Since he couldn't get the broken carbide bit out, let alone whatever was left of the barrel pin I had wanted replaced, he tried to cosmetically cover the mess by inserting short pins in from either end of the pin hole. It looked like the stuff that comes out of the southern end of a north bound cow. The smith had the grace to volunteer that he had performed a poor job. He didn't use the word "poor." I agreed.

I have no desire to revisit the remainder of that conversation. He was not paid for his services. I was hot enough that I very nearly flung the gun into a deep snow bank on the way out of his shop , but restrained the demon attempting to claw its way out of my chest, and drove home observing the speed limit. I put the gun into the back of the safe and tried to keep the whole thing out of my head forever. Kind of like having voted for the wrong president. It has remained there for about ten years.

Recent threads on 44 Special conversions have reminded me that I have an unfinished one in my safe, and that as I have aged I have embraced a measure of stoicism.

So, after venting and whining, how can I fix this gun? The last photo is of my other HP, showing how the barrel pin should look on a S&W of that era. I want to somehow get the junk and wreckage out of the pin hole and get a pin properly installed, so that it looks, when finished, like an original. So I seek advice and recommendations. My ultimate goal is to get the gun refinished in a decent blue job, and then use it until it or I wear out completely.

The photos show the current state of the project. Note the crappy pin holes, which I have tried to clean up. The gun shoots well. In single action one of the cylinders carries up a little stiffly, but I'll fix that. The balance and handling are everything I have wanted. It's a good gun that deserves being worked up to its potential. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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I’ll opine that it doesn’t look as bad as I expected after reading the story (and I feel your pain!).

I’m not an expert, they will be along shortly, but it strikes me that the slightly larger pin you mentioned would probably be a reasonable solution; so far as removing the mess (including hider pins in now-blind holes, jeez!) what is coming to mind is EDM machining, which I believe can do a pretty good job in this situation, given an expert operator.

Good luck, looking forward to hearing other suggestions.
 
So is that broken drill bit and broken pin in the hole that we’re looking at?

I agree with the poster above that it doesn’t look nearly as bad as I was expecting from the post. I suppose if I were you, I would be upset, especially if my original plan was to get it nicely reblued. As an outsider looking in, I would probably look at it as a fun beater and enjoy a gun that was mechanically sound and that I didn’t have to worry about.

I have a very nicely polished 66-3 and a finish damaged 10-8. I love the way my 66-3 looks but the other day I came home from the range and when it took me about 1/5th the time to clean the 10-8, I definitely gave that beater a little nod.
 
There isn't a lot that can be done for the frame damage. I would make a new .055" barrel pin with ball ends like it was from the factory. Make the pin long enough that it protrudes from both sides of the frame, that would help to camouflage the frame damage to the pin hole area. I would try to polish out the file damage on the left side of the frame and re-finish the gun, probably by the rust bluing you do so well.
 
I would make a new .055" barrel pin with ball ends like it was from the factory.
My experience has been the barrel pins are 0.068"-0.069" diameter and vary in length, 0.570" or 0.715".

IMG_5728Gunsmith S&W Revolver Barrel Pin Cup Tip Punch 0.070" Fabrication 04.01.26 copy.webp
 
I'm not a machinist but I work in a manufacturing facility that has a complete machine shop. I'm wondering if pulse EDM could clean out the pin hole? If you know this already I apologize, but pulse EDM shoots a spark straight out of an electrode; it is the spark that erodes the material. It certainly would not be cheap & might be a bear to fixture. But EDM is deadly accurate.
 
Thanks to all for the replies.

I'm going to fly with the EDM suggestions and ask a local machinist about it. If he's not equipped to do it I'm sure he'll be able to recommend somebody. Hopefully I'll be able to post about my lovely HP 44 before too much longer.

Thanks again.
 
In this day and age, a laser might also be able to cut the pin out. There are more shops around here with a laser than an EDM.
 
I had a 5 screw HP with a similar problem. I tried everything and could not get the barrel pin to move.

I finally made a fixture that clamped onto the top strap with the sight removed. Then clamped fixture in my mill vise and used a 1/16" 2 flute end mill to "drill" the pin out. I first drilled from one side then the other. 1/16" is .0625 and I doubt most people can look at the slightly larger pin I used to reassemble the gun with a new barrel (45 colt) and see it is a bit big.
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... Since he couldn't get the broken carbide bit out, let alone whatever was left of the barrel pin I had wanted replaced, he tried to cosmetically cover the mess by inserting short pins in from either end of the pin hole.

Question..

I understand the carbide bit breaking off DOWN in the Hole.
That leaves one side with an open bbl pin hole, but only as deep as the broken off carbide bit.

If the bit broke off down in there, then it would not have removed the pin extending out the other side of the frame.

How did the smith insert a short pin on both sides, if the one end still had the remnant of the factory pin in place after the hole from the other side was blocked by the broken bit.
Did he break one bit going in from one side, then cut the remaining length of pin from the opposite side as well?
That's the only way I can think of to be able to 'short pins' for a cosmetic fix.

If the pins now in the frame that you can see in the pics are soft steel, I would recut from both sides as SteelSlaver says to the 1/16d . But only to a depth to allow short pins to be inserted.

If one end of the pin in the pics is a broken off Carbide bit,,then I would go to the EDM or Laser cut removal.
Trying to cut through that broken off carbide bit with yet another carbide bit is asking for failure.

Forgive me if I am not understanding all this.


If you can work around the issue of the broken off carbide bit being lodged in there, then I would just leave it inside the hole.
Cutting from both sides for a short pin would end the problem.
A short pin inserted from both sides will fix the looks.
Yes it's a cosmetic fix, but so is the Bbl Pin itself cosmetic.
The bbl pin doesn't really do anything to hold the bbl in place. Torque during install does all that..

Some people may not be able to live with the thought of the broken bit piece inside there, then you have to go big and EDM or Laser cut it out of there. You'd still likely have to recut the entire hole a trifle larger (1/16"d) and re-pin.

Those marks around the work site are a simple fix. Small dents can be peened back into place and careful polishing brings the surfaces back looking like they should be.
A touch up bluing to those areas with rust Blue will then finish the job.

Hope you get it all fixed up. I really like those 44spcl conversions done on N frames.
 
Last year I acquired a M/28-2 4" that had been converted to .44 Magnum using a M/24 barrel and rechambering the HP cylinder. The project was incomplete in that the barrel still bore the M/24 .44 Special caliber marking. I drawfiled the markings off and had gunsmith Jim Kobe pantograph engrave the .44 Magnum caliber marking and rust blue. Previously I had owned several M/28 conversions, they were all 6" .44 Specials. This is the first 4" .44 Magnum, I plan to only shoot .44 Special power loads assembled in Magnum brass. It is my favorite .44 Magnum Smith & Wesson, it has wide hammer and trigger and white outline rear sight. My plan is to install a red insert in the front sight to make it complete.
 
I also expected worse from the original post. I too would have to try and find a way to make it right. I also agree the gunsmith should have done so.
I did a similar thing drilling out a front sight blade in a model 19, using a drill press and drilling through the sight base (yes I now know that was not the correct way to do it).
The broken bit became the new sight pin. It looks fine.
 
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