Pre Model 16 question

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gjamison

gjamison

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As you can see from the picture the cylinder isn’t numbered. Is this correct? I’ve never owned one but have owned many pre model guns and all have had numbered cylinders. Thank you you all.
 

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According to the Standard Catalog (5th) that SN is 1957. Right about the time of model numbers showing up and the soft fitting with SN stamped on parts stopping. Might, or might not have the SN stamped on the cylinder or the barrel, wouldn't be surprised if the SNs weren't there.
 
gjamison said:
K312831
Click to expand...
There is your answer. That unit most likely shipped in 1958, based on quite a few nearby serial numbers. As Jeff mentioned, by that time, S&W had stopped serializing the cylinder and barrel flat. Conventional wisdom says that practice stopped with the elimination of soft fitting in 1957.

Model numbers start showing up at around K316000 on the Model 19. A bit later on the Models 14, 15, 16, 17 and 18, with one very early exception on a special-order Model 14 (K314496, shipped on July 28, 1958).
 
Dry Firing. I am a school trained gunsmith and have been a police armorer, Army Ordnance, as well as a store gunsmith in several gun stores over the past 60+ years. In this time I have personally seen the following damage done to S&W D/A revolvers by dry firing: Broken hammer nose, loose hammer nose rivets to the point they will fall out, badly burred hammer nose bushings, broker hammer and trigger studs, broken rebound slide studs. In addition to mis-aligned yokes, loose frame studs etc. from other mis-handling of the guns. Do you still want to do un-limited dry-firing with your revolver? Yes, dry-firing can do many different types of damage if done to excess! Personally I do very little dry-firing of my S&Ws
 
Alk8944 said:
Dry Firing. I am a school trained gunsmith and have been a police armorer, Army Ordnance, as well as a store gunsmith in several gun stores over the past 60+ years. In this time I have personally seen the following damage done to S&W D/A revolvers by dry firing: Broken hammer nose, loose hammer nose rivets to the point they will fall out, badly burred hammer nose bushings, broker hammer and trigger studs, broken rebound slide studs. In addition to mis-aligned yokes, loose frame studs etc. from other mis-handling of the guns. Do you still want to do un-limited dry-firing with your revolver? Yes, dry-firing can do many different types of damage if done to excess! Personally I do very little dry-firing of my S&Ws
Click to expand...
I'm not making a connection between this post and the question about a non-serial-numbered cylinder.
But the answer to preventing the problem you posted about is easy
Snap Caps.
 
I just put my finger between the hammer and frame.

Cylinder does NOT turn.

The First S&W I bought just over a year ago was serial # K323372, NO model number. Serial number on the back of the extractor, none on the bottom of the barrel, back of the cylinder. 4 screw .
I had to tell them to make sure to INCLUDE the K in the serial number to avoid potential duplication of serial numbers.
 
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I could check your car's cooling system for temperature and flow with that same hand (finger) AND I could check your fan clutch, in a matter of seconds.
No charge diagnosed in seconds
Bad fan clutch, stop the plastic fan and spin it backwards while the engine was RUNNING !!!!!!
 
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greenwellg said:
I could check your car's cooling system for temperature and flow with that same hand (finger) AND I could check your fan clutch, in a matter of seconds.
No charge diagnosed in seconds
Bad fan clutch, stop the plastic fan and spin it backwards while the engine was RUNNING !!!!!!
Click to expand...
FUNNY! :ROFLMAO:
But keep in mind there may be people reading your post who don't recognize it as sarcasm.
FWIW....
 
Alk8944 said:
Dry Firing. I am a school trained gunsmith and have been a police armorer, Army Ordnance, as well as a store gunsmith in several gun stores over the past 60+ years. In this time I have personally seen the following damage done to S&W D/A revolvers by dry firing: Broken hammer nose, loose hammer nose rivets to the point they will fall out, badly burred hammer nose bushings, broker hammer and trigger studs, broken rebound slide studs. In addition to mis-aligned yokes, loose frame studs etc. from other mis-handling of the guns. Do you still want to do un-limited dry-firing with your revolver? Yes, dry-firing can do many different types of damage if done to excess! Personally I do very little dry-firing of my S&
Click to expand...

Alk8944 said:
Dry Firing. I am a school trained gunsmith and have been a police armorer, Army Ordnance, as well as a store gunsmith in several gun stores over the past 60+ years. In this time I have personally seen the following damage done to S&W D/A revolvers by dry firing: Broken hammer nose, loose hammer nose rivets to the point they will fall out, badly burred hammer nose bushings, broker hammer and trigger studs, broken rebound slide studs. In addition to mis-aligned yokes, loose frame studs etc. from other mis-handling of the guns. Do you still want to do un-limited dry-firing with your revolver? Yes, dry-firing can do many different types of damage if done to excess! Personally I do very little dry-firing of my S&Ws
Click to expand...
For as long as I’ve been shooting (a day or two), I have heard about the damage done to revolvers (we’re talking center fire here) from dry firing. The only thing is, I have yet to see any ! From my own personal experience extensively dry firing my own revolvers, revolvers dry fired by local law enforcement, working with five large town gunsmiths, not a single gun have I seen damaged by dry firing. To date, I have extensively dry fired (over a period of 50+ years) over 55 S&W’s. 25 Colts and Rugers, yet not a single one damaged-Ever !
 
BC38 said:
FUNNY! :ROFLMAO:
But keep in mind there may be people reading your post who don't recognize it as sarcasm.
FWIW....
Click to expand...
No sarcasm just facts. Very impressive demonstration. NOW YOUR ignorance is obvious. Fan clutch uses a bimetallic to control a restriction in a fluid coupling. Less restriction more slippage. Max speed 2500 RPM when air flow over the clutch gets higher fan speeds faster. When it is worn out you can actually stick your finger in the downstream part of the fan and stop it and spin it backward. ENGINE RUNNING :love:
Good radiator removes heat from the engine top hose hot bottom colder good radiator when it gets plugged enough it will not cool enough for higher loads.
Remember the song Maybelline, partially blocked radiator cooling passages.
Facts Son, you playing in my area of expertise and your accusation of dishonesty is duly noted.
Facts can be clearly demonstrated
 
MY dry firing method, using a finger, STOPS the turn line completely, cylinder does not revolve. Allows dry firing without any other damage. Wear pattern on trigger and hammer interface , improves, measurably unless pattern is already established with wear and turn line.
 
greenwellg said:
MY dry firing method, using a finger, STOPS the turn line completely, cylinder does not revolve. Allows dry firing without any other damage. Wear pattern on trigger and hammer interface , improves, measurably unless pattern is already established with wear and turn line.
Click to expand...
We talking guns or computers ? 🤣
 
gjamison said:
As you can see from the picture the cylinder isn’t numbered. Is this correct? I’ve never owned one but have owned many pre model guns and all have had numbered cylinders. Thank you you all.
Click to expand...
For the money K32's are bringing I would want all of the usual parts numbers matching.
 
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