moly coated wadcutters

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Troystat

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Shot some moly coated 148 grain double end lead wadcutters from Bearcreek bullets today in my model 27. I used 3.1 grains of bullseye. In the past I have always used 148 grain button nosed wadcutters with a wax lubricate. The moly coated bullets seemed much cleaner and where much less smoky. Still not sure about the accuracy, will have to sit down and shoot a half dozen 6 shot groups with each to compare. Have any of you tried the moly coated wadcutters?
Also shot some old 146 grain speer half jacketed semi wadcutters with a shovel full of 296 and those where very accurate but very loud.
 
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Did you clean and treat your barrel with moly before you shot the rounds? If not, you're not getting the benefit of the moly coating on the bullets.

Save your money. Moly has been around for years and if it was a greatest thing since sliced bread, it hasn't caught on.
I played with some .308 loads years ago out of a very accurate 700 PSS and really couldn't justify the effort. BTW, moly isn't a rust inhibitor, so you really need to clean the gun well anyway.

Hobie
 
Plus, Moly is next to impossible to remove from the barrel. It is one of the slipperiest, tenacious stuff known to man.

Regular cleaning methods do not work. The best way is to use JB Bore paste, follow the instructions and a lot of elbow grease.
 
I did not pre-treat the bore, as for cost I bought these bullets locally and they cost the same or less than most of the mail order companies. I have heard that there are different kinds of moly coated bullets I don't know what kind of coating they have. As for cleaning I just cleaned the bore and it did not seem to be an issue. Since I have 1000 of them I should have a better idea of how they function soon enough:)

Thanks for the replys
 
I have shot Moly Coated bullets for some time,They are great. ICROE & ISPSA) Never have leading - bore stays clean.
 
The "claim to fame" about molly bullets and barrel treatment was that it was so slippery that there was a gain in velocity and that it also kept the barrel coated so nothing would stick and it was a breeze to clean. It was mainly a rifle thing. You may find that your gun is easier to clean. From what I read, if you shot molly then you should stick with just molly.

So of course shoot the ones you have. In a short handgun barrel and velocities it will not be that hard to remove the molly if when it needs it.

No, they will not lead as they are coated with molly. They will molly;)
 
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Does the moly leave too much build up that will cause problems? What is the issue that it needs to be cleaned out if you put it there in the first place? A buddy of mine gave me a bunch of copper plated bullets that he used Sandstorm brand spray on moly and I loaded them into .38 specials and now I'm not sure if I want to shoot them or pull them.

Close up of one:
IMAG0180.jpg


A few I loaded as work up loads, ignore the broken Dillon beam scale in the back...
IMAG0182.jpg


Another close up of the group of them:
IMAG0181.jpg
 
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Go ahead and shoot them. The main problem with Molly removal was in high power rifles. In a handgun you will be able to "scrub" it out.If you need some JB bore paste, let me know I will send you a "blob" I have a tube that will last ten lifetimes.

Those are some nice looking rounds! Did you hand polish each one for their photo opp??:)
 
That's new Starline brass that I tumbled in corn cob with some Nu Finish.

I was just a little shocked to read some of the horror stories after searching here and other forums from what was said. In retrospect they have a fun sinister look to them. I have been using a cotton swab with some moly grease on internals for a while now and had zero rust issues and they feel like they are so smooth it's like an action job has been done on them. I did smear some moly grease on a square stone and smooth out some friction parts. That worked wonders. But I'm not wanting to ruin barrels. I clean every time I shoot though so I didn't think it would be a problem, but figured I would break down and ask.
 
Regular cleaning will not remove Moly. Now I do not know if just using molly coated bullets will leave enough in the grooves to worry about?. It was when the whole barrel was treated that the hard removal came to be. as there is nothing that dissolves it.

So elbow grease and mild abrasive (JB Bore Paste is used) If you have Flitz that may work with a patch wrapped around a bore brush (same instructions for JB)

That's the same scale I have. It has a lifetime guarantee.
 
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I've used moly coated bullets in a couple of rifles for years with success. The "claim to fame" that Rule 3 posted about is a misconception. Since moly is a coating it provides less friction thereby your velocities will be slightly less. You will only see an increase in velocity if you bump up the powder charge. Moly can be cleaned without a lot of trouble if you use Kano Kroil. I use a 50/50 mixture with Hoppes #9.

The major advantage of moly is it allows you to shoot more without regular cleaning. I have put over 250 rounds through my groundhog gun in a year without cleaning and the POI never changed. I did however prep the bore before hand and occasionally run a dry patch through the bore during the course of the year. I only cleaned the bore after hunting season was over and each time the bore came out spotless.

I don't have a lot of faith with the pre-moly coated bullets or the spray since both will easily wipe off. I impact plate my bullets with moly using the same technique Neco uses. It is recommended that if you are going to shoot moly coated bullets that you stick with them and DO NOT shoot any other bullet without moly unless you throughly clean the bore. Otherwise you will cover over the moly with copper or lead making cleaning that much harder and then a mild abrasive such as JB's will be needed.

I can't claim any accuracy improvements because a few of my rifles have seen nothing but moly bullets and I don't know how accurate they were to begin with. I can claim that I've had to clean a lot less though.

If you plan to use moly coated bullets I would advise you to do a little research on line before hand.
 
I stand corrected on the increase in velocity:o

I do maintain that it is not the do all wonder treatment (for shooting) as claimed a few years ago. It is still a great industrial lubricant.

But if it works for some folks, go for it.
 
Rule3 said:
I stand corrected on the increase in velocity:o

I do maintain that it is not the do all wonder treatment (for shooting) as claimed a few years ago. It is still a great industrial lubricant.

But if it works for some folks, go for it.
Click to expand...

I also had to be corrected when I first looked into moly coating years ago that's why I did some extensive research. And I agree, it's not a do all wonder treatment but it does have at least one advantage "if" it's what you're looking for. I think most of the "claims" for accuracy were spawned from internet wannabe's that felt the need to post something because from my reading on the subject, (from those that have actually tested it), only two claims were made, which I posted. Less frequent cleaning & less friction.
 
Yeah, they left a mess in the barrel of my 64 from those dang .38 special plated and spray coated bullets. Spray on moly type products most be pretty different from what is done at the factory. I had thought about trying the Lyman moly lube but the alox beeswax 50/50 works pretty darn good. Besides, you have a Glock. Standard jacketed is what you are supposed to stick with unless you buy an aftermarket barrel. I shot lead in my G17 for a while, but I guess I got lucky compared to what I have seen pics posted. I'm also curious if some of the people think they have moly coated bullets when it's just some form of dry lube like what Hornady puts on most of their lead bullets. I bet most of what people say or think is moly is just that dry lube.
 
Moly is hygroscopic, meaning that it attracts water. If you want water in your bbl you live in a different climate than I do and I am in the dry part of Montana.
 
mtgianni said:
Moly is hygroscopic, meaning that it attracts water. If you want water in your bbl you live in a different climate than I do and I am in the dry part of Montana.
Click to expand...

I had delivered my Les Baer Long Slide back to Les due to a disconnector issue. Mr. Baer and I talked about some things and Moly came up. Mr. Baer said that his shop had just replaced a barrel that had pitted and had been Moly coated. He indicated that in his opinion, Moly wasn't all it was supposed to be, and possibly could of caused the damage. He stated that Moly could trap moisture between it and the metal.(disclaimer: this conversation occured about 12 years ago so Mr. Baer if you're reading this, forgive me for any in-consistencies)

Scared me away from it. Moly does seem to work quite well on the mechanical parts in my guns.

Hobie
 
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