I have the Lee Pacesetter die set for .223. I loaded about 50 rounds the other day and shot them today, no problems. Tonight I started to load them again and am having a problem trying to get the crimp tight around the channel in the bullet. It is loose. I can move it back and forth in the channel. I have been working on this all evening and can't get it to work properly. Like I said using the same bullets it worked fine the other night using the same specs.
I have measured the opening in the casing before and after the full case resizing die. The sizing die sized the opening to .219. Of course the bullet will not fit in the opening without the bullet seater. I have adjusted the crimping die all night and can't get it to crimp at the bullet channel. I will crimp outside the channel but when I get the proper cartridge length it has to crimp at the channel. The Lee instructions say I need the channel for the die to work.
When I adjust the die to try to make it tighter it crushed the shoulder of the casing. I can't find a happy medium.

Ok I have been working on this for hours. My brain is fried but I can't figure what I am doing wrong. It's probably something stupid but I can't figure it out. Just when I thing I may have it I crush another casing.

Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you solve it?

thanks for the help

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

It is nothing more or less than an adjustment problem. The solution is re-read the instructions as many times as necessary until you truly understand what they are saying.

I suspect you are adjusting the seating depth and then simply screwing the die in farther to crimp, this doesn't, as you have discovered. Adjust the seating depth first, back the seating stem out and then set the die body to the proper crimp. After this is done screw the seating stem down, with the crimped cartridge still fully in the die, until it is firmly against the bullet. You may still have to make very minor adjustments, but this will get you very close.

There are two other solutions. First seat and crimp separately. If you feel you have to crimp this is the best solution. The second is simply do not crimp unless there is a real need. If you are shooting a semi-automatic gun then crimping may be needed. If you are shooting a single shot of any type, a bolt action or slide action gun there is no reason to crimp.

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Gunsmithing since 1961

If this is a standard seating/crimping die, set the OAL with a dummy round. Screw the seating stem out. Screw the die in until you get a light crimp. A heavy crimp isn't really needed with a 223. Lock the die down. With the dummy round at top dead center screw the seating stem in until it makes contact with the bullet.

If you're loading these for a bolt action, falling block, or break action you don't need to crimp. Neck tension is all you need. You also don't necessarily have to use the cannelure. You have the option of adjusting the OAL to fit your rifle's chamber.

Thanks guys

Well the problem is I can't get the crimp to crimp the bullet in the channel. I've been all through adjusting every which way. I read and adjusted all the dies many times.

This is the problem. I adjust according to the instructions. I screw the crimping die down until it touches the shell casing. I want a crimp so I lower the shell and screw the die in another 1/4 turn. Then I made sure the bullet seater is backed out far enough as not to seat the bullet all the way. I put the bullet on the casing and raise the shell and bullet into the die. When I adjust the bullet seater to the proper OAL the opening of the case is at the channel. I can move the bullet in the channel back and forth. It is crimped enough to keep it from pulling out of the casing but not enough to hold the bullet in position. I can slide it back and forth in the channel. When I screw the crimp part of the die down a little more to "tweek" the crimp it crushes the shell. I can't seem to find out how to get the crimp tight in the channel without distorting the brass. The bullet won't stay put long enough to go the the factory crimp die. I've thrown out about 10 cases that have been crushed trying to get the crimp right.

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

If you are reloading for regular .223 and have the Pacesetter dies it should be a three die set with a Factory Crimp die. The collet in the FCD might be stuck closed. According to the Lee web site .223 Remington is a three die set. Don

Pacesetter Dies 223 Rem - Lee Precision

The two die set is for .223 WSSM

2 Die Set 223 Wssm - Lee Precision

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"Don't worry be happy"

Your description doesn't sound right. Srew the die down til it touches the case then backoff a full turn. Now start running the seating stem dow til the seating depth is correct. Back off on the seating stemm a cople turns. Now with the depth correct ease the crimper die dow til its correct. Now adjust the seater stem down til it touches the bullet. OR just forget about the crimp die. Been shooting an AR in competition for over 20 years. Never crimped a single round.

Thumbs,

Let's try again. For clarification, are you saying that when seated the bullet is tight in the case and doesn't move, but when you crimp it becomes loose so the bullet is then free to move the width of the cannellure retained only by the crimp? Am I understanding what you are saying correctly? If this is correct, then you are over crimping, by a lot!

The bullet is retained in the case by neck tension. The only function of the crimp is to prevent the bullet from being pushed down in the case during functioning and feeding. This is why all military ammunition is crimped. For most purposes there is no reason to crimp rifle ammunition, especially for a cartridge that generates as little recoil as any .22 center-fire.

You are, obviously, inexperienced in reloading. This isn't meant as criticism, but it it apparent from the direction of the conversation. I have had the same conversation with new loaders dozens of times over the past 50+ years I have been reloading. Others who have responded probably have quite a bit of experience also, and we are all telling you the same thing! That should be a hint to you. We are all trying to help you and understand the proper procedures, you should listen. It is exceedingly poor form to ask for assistance and then arguing with the people who have responded.

The only way any of us could give you more help would be to sit down with you at the bench and show you what we are talking about, and not being in close proximity so far as I can know, that isn't possible. I can guarantee that many on this forum would be more than happy to do this though.

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Gunsmithing since 1961

If I sounded like I was being confrontational I apologize profusely. This was and is not my intent. I think what may have happened is in my frustration in trying to figure this thing out it may have come across that way. Again I am looking for help not trying to dispute anything anyone may offer. I will try anything.

And yes I am still wet behind the ears on rifle stuff. I know not of what I speak. I have no past experience with loading for rifle. Whatever the problem is it very well may be a question of inexperience. Like you say you could probably sit down at my bench and find the problem before you loaded your first case. I just don't have that exp.

This is the Pasesetter set with the three die set. It has the full case sizing and decaping die, bullet seating die with crimp(I do not use the crimp since the set comes with the factory crimp die.) I can't get to the factory crimp die because the bullet is not held fast in the casing and moves before I can get it to the factory crimp.

Let me try to explain what I am doing. I am taking the once fired Federal case and checking the length. Most of the time it is a bit undersize and does not require trimming. I have measured the ID of the neck and am getting a reading of .226. If I take a bullet at this time it will, and should, slide in and out of the neck of the caseing. Now I take the casing and put it into the first stage, the full case sizing and depriming stage. I run the case into the die all the way and out. I feel resistance as though something is happening in the die. Now I check the ID once again and get .220. I am told this may even be a bit tight. Anyway I then go to the bullet seating stage. (Remember I am not loading the casing just trying to seat the bullet properly. So priming and adding powder is not necessary.) I am using Hornaby 55gr SP bullets with a cannellure. I don't want a crimp on this stage so I set the die for no crimp. I can not start the bullet in the case by hand so I have to guide the bullet all the way into the die. Since the bullet seat is not adjusted to the proper depth it puts the bullet in the case but not far enough for proper OAL. I then adjust the seating die,very slowly, step by step to get it to the proper depth. Each step along the way I check the OAL and creep toward the proper length. I check the bullet each time and it "seems" tight or snug in the neck. I can not move the bullet in the neck. When I reach the proper OAL it puts the top of the neck for the casing in the center of the cannellure. When this happens the bullet is loose in the casing. If I shake it it will rattle in the cannellure. Obviously this is not right. I can't even get it to the "factory crimp" die before the bullet moves in the cannellure. It's as thought the neck of the casing is not uniform. It's seems as thought the neck is smaller at the end and larger down the neck. I have checked the diameter of the decapper, sizer. and the diameter seems to be about .222. It seems that maybe the full length sizer is not sizing the neck down enough so that the sizer can not open the diameter to the proper size. I don't have a clue as to why the mouth of the neck is tighter.

Again I apologize if I came across poorly. Being frustrated is not an excuse. The problem with typing is you only see the printed word and not the intent of the dialog. I do not know what is wrong and do not dispute any help I may get. If you tell me to do something I will try it and tell you what the results were. Heck I still say Sir, Mam please and thank you. And I'm 65.

Yesterday I called Lee. The long and the short of the conversation is this should not happen. The bullet should be able to be seated anywhere along the bullet and the neck being at the cannellure is no exception. They say to send the set back with case examples and they will try to figure it out. I just bought the set so I have exchanged them at Cabela's where I bought the last week. The new dies are still in the box I have not even taken the tape of the container as of yet.

Sorry for the long post but it takes a long one to try to give you as much information as possible.

thanks guys I really want your help and don't mean to sound as though I am disputing your suggestions.

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

I am confused. You state you loaded and shot 50 rounds and all was well.

What changed between then and now?

Did you full length size the brass or is this different brass?. You say you adjusted the die and crush the cases. Did you adjust the die with the big lock nut or with the knob on top?

Screw the whole resizing die in until it hits the shell holder. Now lower the ram and turn it in 1/4 or a bit more in. Tighten the lock nut. Resize a case.

Now screw in the bullet seating die until it hits the shell holder, back out the whole die 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut. The adjustment knob should be almost all the way out.

Now hold a bullet on the case mouth and guide it up into the die. Turn the thumb knob on top to gradually seat the bullet to the depth you want it( you state your bullets have a cannelure)

Adjusting the bullet seating knob (on top) should not crush a case. Something is not adjusted right.

I have the same dies and the neck sizing die. Are you shooting a semi auto or a bolt action??

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Still Running Against the Wind

This by ALK8944

"Let's try again. For clarification, are you saying that when seated the bullet is tight in the case and doesn't move, but when you crimp it becomes loose so the bullet is then free to move the width of the cannellure retained only by the crimp? Am I understanding what you are saying correctly? If this is correct, then you are over crimping, by a lot!"

My son was having this exact same problem. He said it was the die. I sat down and loaded two dummy rounds on his die set. Tight as can be on the bullets.

When you overcrimp the case is being pushed down and the brass releases the neck tension.

Your cases may vary in length adding to the problem.
Get a case trimmer or at the very least sort cases by length if you are trying to crimp into the cannelure. There is very little difference in force required to seat and crimp as opposed to too much crimp.

The other posters are really doing a good job of trying to help you.

My compliments to them all.

Bruce

Hey all, I'm new here & this post catch my eye.

I've had similar problems using non-cannellure bullets with 1xfired brass. I just couldn't get a tight enough crimp that the bullet didn't move forward when it went into the battery.

My problem wasn't my dies - it was the neck of the 1xfired brass. It had hardened to the point when crimped it wouldn't hold correctly.

With cannellured bullets - no biggie, but I also load hot RDs with 75gr & 77gr bullets(non-cannellure) & this movement became a major issue. The bullets actually stopped moving forward when the hit the rifling of the BBL - not good!

I had 3 choices;
use new brass - not really an option, anneal all my brass - which worked but to time/cost inefficient, or cannellure all my bullets - which I intend to do for all my 75gr & 77gr.

I don't know if this is actually your problem but it might be something to consider.

Yes me too thanks all for the continuing help.

Yes I did load 50 rounds but they were Hornaby Vmax without the cannellure. They seemed fine but I think mabe they had the same problem but because they didn't have the cannelure the top of the casing "bit" the bullet and it seemed as though it was seated right when in fact I dough it. I think it was only held at the top of the neck and not by the complete throat.

The only change was I went from the Hornaby Vmax bullet to the Hornaby SP with the cannellure.

Yes I length sized the brass. Now most ran a little shorter than the length the Lee trimmer is set for. Not a lot but they are shorter. I adjusted the bullet with the crimp die, originally, screwing in the entire die until it touched the top of the case then 1/4 turn more. Then I put the bullet on the case and guided it into the die and adjusted the bullet seating knob down, checking depth until it was the proper oal. The bullet seemed tight all the way down until it got to the cannellure. At that point it became obvious the neck was not tight enough to hold the bullet. Only the mouth of the neck would grip the bullet. When the bullet reached the cannellure it then became loose. I couldn't pull the bullet out of the cannellure but it will rattle in the cannellure. The neck of the casing is not tight around the bullet.

Yes your right the seating knob didn't crush the case. I thought if I adjusted the entire die down thinking it would crimp the neck tighter. In fact that was wrong and it just crushed the case and did not make the neck tighter.

I am shooting a semi, AR.

Hope this helps and thanks

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

Yes, it seems as though the bullet is only crimped at the top of the case. It seems like the neck of the case is not tight around the bullet at all, in fact even after crimping it's way to loose.

Very well may be me. I am far from making a mistake. My problem, now, is trying to find my problem. What you are saying about "bulging" the case with the crimp is well worth looking into. It makes sense. The cases are a little different in length. The trimmer I am using now is a Lee that only cuts the case if it is longer than the shaft on the trimmer. Most of the cases are very close to the same length. I have tried severial cases though with the same results.

Sorry your son had the same problem but maybe I am doing the same exact thing.

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

Just thought of something. I did try it without a crimp. I adjusted the bullet seat die for no crimp. I had the same results, the bullet was tight until it got to the cannellure then it rattled in the "grove".

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

If you are still overcrimping then you may notice that the shoulder of the case has set back. You will see a slight bulge at the shoulder as compared to a new round. Anytime the shoulder is pushed back it causes a headspace problem. The rounds may also not chamber or require extra force to chamber.

Another thing to check is the bullet ogive. That is the curvature along the sides of the bullet. If the ogive is long then the neck cannot keep tension on the bullet. I had this problem with a bullet brand years ago. To check the ogive just place the bullet into your calipers to see how far the sides are straight. If the ogive is in the seated area then I suggest seating the bullet as long as possible and forget about the cannelure.
A properly seated bullet will stay in the case and function properly.

Lastly remember it takes very little force to seat and crimp a bullet. Too much pressure will cause the problems you have experienced.
Small case, small bullet and big press equals a light touch when seating.

Bruce

Bruce

Thanks. Let me see if I get this right. The ogive is the straightness of the shaft of the bullet right? In other words my measurements should be constant along the shaft. Hummm didn't check that either.

As I said earlier I took the original dies back and exchanged them for a new set. I will start all over and try it agian. It will be interesting to see if I continue to have the same problem. I thought since Lee Percussion suggested I send the dies back with examples it may be a good time to replace the dies. Anyway I'll try again tomorrow. Of course I will check all the suggestions as I go along and let you know what I find out. It very well may be me. We will see.

thanks guys

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

Actually the ogive is the curved part of the bullet.
If the curved part goes into the case then the reduced diameter area cannot hold the case neck tension.
I hope that this helps.
Your loading manual should have the definition of ogive.
Good luck. You will get past this problem eventually.

Bruce

"I adjusted the bullet with the crimp die, originally, screwing in the entire die until it touched the top of the case then 1/4 turn more. Then I put the bullet on the case and guided it into the die and adjusted the bullet seating knob down, checking depth until it was the proper oal."

Therein lies your problem, you are crimping the brass (touching the case, then 1/4 turn more) before you even insert a bullet. In effect, you are closing the case mouth, then setting a bullet (now larger diameter than the opening of the case mouth) on top and forcing it down into the case, thereby distorting the entire case mouth. From your statement, it sounds as though you left the die set that way. Try backing off the seating die body in the press until you have NO contact with the brass, then set your OAL. Leave the die body at that setting (do not screw it in again, there is no need to add a crimp at this point). I believe you will find your bullets will pretty much stay put. If you want to crimp, use the FCD in the next step, just make sure you set it up IAW Lee's instructions. Hope this helps.

Thanks again. Sounds like we are gettin close. Good things to check out. I really think things will work out tomorrow. Like you said I may have a step backwards.

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

I just want to suggest something you might not be doing. Are you chamfering the inside of your case mouth so the bullet can get started in? If not this could crush your case when you seat the bullet. Don

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"Don't worry be happy"

Yes thanks. I think the crushing of the case is because I was trying to increase the crimp with the bullet seating crimping die. I thought it wasn't set low enough to make the crimp. when I lowerd the die it forced down on the shoulder of the case and bulged or crushed the case where the shoulder and the body of the case come together.

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

I think someone above was pointing you in the right direction. From what you said here, you're adjusting things backwards.

You need to back out the seating STEM so it doesn't do anything at first. Run a resized/primed/powdered case up in the press.

Screw the seating/crimping DIE in till it just touches the case. Then back it out a couple of turns.

Put a bullet in position and run the case back up into the die.

Now screw the seating STEM down and continue adjusting it till you've got the bullet at the correct OAL.
Once you've got the OAL correct, back the seating STEM out enough turns so it won't be anywhere near the round.

Run the round back into the die and screw the crimping/seating DIE down till it just touches the case mouth. Lower the round and screw the DIE down 1/4 turn (you can adjust it down more if you want more crimp).

OK, at this point you've got a round with the bullet properly seated and the crimp where you want it. You just need to put the pieces together.

Now lock the DIE body, run the round back up into it, screw the seating STEM down till it touchs the bullet nose and you're all set.

Slight variations in case length should'nt be a real problem. But it is better if they're all the same length. Your length gauge is set so that it cuts cases that are too long and don't meet specifications. That type won't get all your cases even untill they've stretched over the limit. For most shooting applications I don't worry about slight differences. If you use the optional Lee Factory Crimp Die you pretty much don't have to worry about it at all.

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Pete.

You say you have a Lee FCD with the set? If so I would just seat the bullet with the seating die adjusted so it provides NO crimp, then give it a light crimp with the FCD as a separate step. Some brass/bullet combos work better than others.

I wouldn't jump to the conclusion of a die problem. The next thing I would do is try different brass. That 'crimp groove' on the bullet can end up anywhere, just go for proper COL for your use.

One other thing to add, slight variations in case length can potentially cause you problems when crimping with the seating die. Much less of an issue with a FCD.

Hi Guys

I'm completely frustrated. I spent the last 2 hours working with this thing again. To tell you the truth I don't have a clue what I tried and what I haven't. Something is wrong. Ok it may be me but something is wrong. Maybe it's the bullets. I am trying to reload Hornaby Soft Point 55gr bullets with the cannellure. The bullets seem tight until I get to the proper oal then they are loose in the cannellure. I am told by Lee it makes no difference if there is a cannellure or not it should hold the bullet anywhere on the bullet. I am "positive" I have the dies set to Lee's instructions. I have reset them 10 times. Maybe this combination of bullet and brass won't work. Has anyone loaded the Hornaby Soft Point 55gr bullets in AR.223 Federial brass?

I will re read all the suggestions and try all of them again one by one. I do have some Hornaby VMax 55gr bullets that I will try to see if they work better. Last time I loaded the .223 I used the VMax bullets in the Federal brass and it seemed fine.

Even with the new dies the mouth of the brass measured .219 when it comes out of the sizing die.

If my tone is harsh it's just my frustration with myself. Not pointed at anyone but me. I just hate it when I can't figure things out. I know rifle is a bit different but never had a problem setting up any of my pistol calibers. Set them to the instructions and was loading in 15 minuts max. Oh well I'll get back to it after lunch.

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

Missed the fact that you had the FCD. In that case I agree that it's better to just used the crimp/seating die to seat. Then use the FCD to do the crimping. As I said, the FCD is less likely to be effected by any slight difference in case length.

So you can still follow most of what I posted above. Just leave out adjusting the crimp/seat to crimp. Then follow Lee's instructions for the FCD to do your crimping.

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Pete.

I had a situation a few years ago similar to yours. I was loading 'bulk' 150 grain 30 cal FMJ bullets in once fired 300 WSM cases. Once the cases were resized the bullet would slip into the case neck during seating. This was an issue with the match-up of the Federal cases & the bulk FMJ bullets. I never had a problem with Sierra or Hornady bullets.

I had to go so far as to put the slightest of crimp on the mouth, to hold the bullet in position until some crimp was applied. The bullets were slightly undersized compared to regular hunting bullets. I was only loading a few to start off a sighting session. Just saying, sometimes you have to work around a problem or issue. I'd bet if you were able to change brass things would go better.

First of all be kind. I realize I am an idiot. I know it now.

Also many thanks to all that stayed with me on this. I know someone said this but.........

Well I think I got it.. I kept saying I thought it was biting at the mouth and not down the barrel of the bullet. In other words the neck was not against the bullet. Wellllllll guess what.

All of these casings are shorter than my case trimmer. My trimmer is the Lee one that has the rod that bottoms out at the bottom of the case and cuts whatever it has to to allow the tool to bottom.

Now remember the the bullet would slip in the cannellure? Well there is a reason for that. There was a burr on the end of the casings. I did have to trim one or two of the casings and deburred them inside and out. I had no idea I had to deburr the case even if it wasn't trimmed. Daaaaa. Oh well live and learn.

At least I think that was the problem. I also extended oal just a bit. Now because of the different lengths of the casings some are in the cannellure but only a couple. I started to load after resetting the dies and loaded one or two with no problems. I thought I had it made. Then I loaded another with the mouth in the cannellure and it was loose. I decided to deburr the thing and restarted the process on the caseing. It fit fine. I also wrote down all the lengths of the shell casings with a burr and no burr setup. I loaded a few and those that I didn't deburr were loose. I then went through the rest of the casings and deburred them all. Since then no loose bullets. I loaded a total of 50 rounds. Next time I load will probably tell the real story but I think we got it.

Your suggestions made me check and recheck what I was doing and helped considerably in the process. In fact I think someone asked the question of deburring. I said I did because I deburred the trimmed cases. I thought it wasn't necessary if I didn't trim the casing. Well I was wrong..

I'll let you know the next time I load as to what the outcome is. I really do think we got it though.

Thanks a ton

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

Here's how much a standard 7/8" die moves when turned: Standard reloading dies have a 7/8 -14 body thread. The table below show the effect of backing the die out the stated amount.
TurnsDistance
1/8. 0089"
1/4. 0178"
1/2. 0357"
1. 0714"

BTW, have you measured the bullets themselves? It's possible but unlikely you have some undersize bullets. I measured some of the same kind you're trying to use and they measure .224 up to the cannelure.
My once fired brass is .230 unsized, then .222 f/l sized.

Hobie

__________________
Laissez les bons temps roulez!

Yep I did. The bullets are .223 up to the cannellure. Once fired brass is .260 unsized then .219 f/l sized.

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

Did you measure them with a micrometer? They are supposed to be .224" diameter.

I thought that a bit odd also. Yes they are .223. I checked several. All I measured were .223.

I just measured a few again. I should have known. I have one of those digital HF slide calipers. They measure .223 consistently. I don't see an adjustment. I then picked up my Starrett micrometer and it measures .224. I think I believe my Starrett.

I went to Cabela's and took a look at their calipers. The RCBS, other than the paint looks exactly like the HF.

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

One other thought here, are the bullets boat tail's? I already know the Vmax's are. It's possible that when starting the bullet it's not being seated straight and intruducing some stretching on the neck.

No these are Hornaby Soft point, flat bottom.

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...productId/6133

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

I don't see a problem here. When the connelure is positioned in the case mouth, the bullet will be loose until you use the FCD to crimp the case mouth in the connelure.

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Rod
M&P 22A, 40c, 15A, 15-22

The problem is the bullet will rattle in the cannelure. It's so loose when you take it out of the seating die oal of the cartridge is shortened because the bullet drops to the top of the cannellure. If it were stable in the neck until I could get it to the FCD that would be fine. Unfortunately that isn't the case.

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

If the bullet will stay in and only drop to the edge of the connelure, to where the entire connelure is no longer visible, this isn't going to cause you a problem. I'm sure you are concerned about the OAL being shorter than what you are reading, but it won't be an issue(i.e. pressure isn't going to be affected enough to even notice). Go ahead and crimp it with the FCD

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Rod
M&P 22A, 40c, 15A, 15-22

If you are concerned about the pressure from the OAL being shorter, think about this. They give you a start load and a Max load, and all that area in between. They only list the one OAL for all that area, Start to Max. Going a little shorter on OAL won't affect the feeding of the round in to your weapon. The only time you are going to get pressure greater than what they list is if you load to MAX and have a shorter OAL.

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Rod
M&P 22A, 40c, 15A, 15-22

Thanks Rod

I "think" I "may" have it figured out. I have about 50 rounds to load so that will probably tell the story.

What I am trying to do is within the bounds of the specs. I measured the oal of the AR.223 Federials and checked the oal in the Lee book. There is quite a difference. No matter what I do I am well within the two. To tell you the truth my problem is it just isn't right. I want it put where I want it put and it should be able to be put there. It's just a "why won't this work" thing. Kinda tryin to solve the problem as to why it won't stay tight at the cannellure. Lee says it should crimp anywhere along the bullet within spec. Just tryin to learn something. LOL Even if it drives me nuts. LOL

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

As an update to the loose bullet problem. Well I just loaded 70 rounds using the same setup as the last time. The only difference is that I deburred all the casings no matter if I trimmed them or not. I had some range brass that was a bit long so I had the opportunity to see if that would have any effect which it didn't. Since the cases were different lengths they sat at different positions in the cannellure. No problem they were all tight.

Thanks for all your help guys.

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thumbs
Souderton, Pa.

Thumbs....I learned a lot just reading this thread, I just ordered 500 bullets with cannalures, all of the bullets I have loaded before didn't have one and am trying to be ready.

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Grover Oathkeeper

Sometimes the seemingly smallest things can cause the biggest headaches....

Glad you figured it out!

Hobie

__________________
Laissez les bons temps roulez!

Yeah I had it in the back of my mind that when I measured the ID of the neck I could only measure the opening and not the throat. Never thought it would make that much difference. After checking all the setups on each of the dies at least 10 or 15 times I was grasping at straws. Deburring the neck inside and out was the last thing I could think of. I thought if you didn't trim the case there wasn't any reason to deburr. Oh well live and learn.

My ole man used to say it usually the easy stuff, your thinkin to hard. LOL

Yeah I learned a lot also. Today they loaded as easy as they were difficult last time.

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Souderton, Pa.