Lock Rings for Reloading Dies - Should You Use Them ?

[Rollbar]

I am looking into using lock rings on the LCTurret 4 hole head using the Lee dies 7/8"-14 thread to keep them in place.

Question, should I even use the lock rings first of all.

Question, are these good (link below), AND, will they fit adjacent to one another on the LCTurret 4 hole head?

If theses lock rings are not any good, can someone recommend some that will work if in fact I should use them?

Forster Cross Bolt Die Locking Ring 7/8-14 Thread

Thanks again,
Jim

[Titegroups]

Ive just tightend mine more than recomended, the o rings suck if you want to adjust the dies themselves, wouldnt blame anybody for wanting to improve it.

[Chubbs103]

I personally can't stand that Lee dies do not come with lock rings. The good news is that they do make good dies at a low cost.

The Forster style lock rings are an excellent style. In my opinion (and I am a big fan of RCBS products and customer service) they are superior to the RCBS set screw style.

Chubbs

[TAROMAN]

On my Lee Classic turret press, I install dies with Dillon 1" lock rings. Dillon also has a special wrench for these.
Each set of dies is stored in its own turret (in the round red box) so once installed and tightened up, they're good to go.

[dkals]

I bought the hornady locking rings and when I set my Lee dies and tighten the locking rings they will allow the die a 1/4 turn to unloosen until they hit the next locking ring. Went back to the Lee rings that came with the dies, tight as a drum and no problems.

[Rule3]

Lee makes lock rings for their dies now if you want to waste your money.
The standard o ring lock rings work just fine. I have many. many of their dies. All dies are on their own separate turret. I need to use a wrench to loosen them. Never had a problem with a die becoming lose. I really do not understand how folks complain about them other than they do not tighten them securely to begin with.

[rwsmith]

Lock rings do help, especially on bottlenecks if you use the proper procedure for assuring that they are not cocked in relation to the shellholder.

I do not like the lock rings with a set screw that is 90 degrees to the axis of the die. I much prefer the ones with the screw at an angle and tightened from the side like the ones in your pictures.

[rwsmith]

Lock rings do help, especially on bottlenecks if you use the proper procedure for assuring that the dies are not cocked in relation to the shellholder.

I do not like the lock rings with a set screw that is 90 degrees to the axis of the die. I much prefer the ones with the screw at an angle and tightened from the side like the ones in your pictures.

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Oops, double post.

[Rollbar]

Thanks for the info. I was using the Lee die on the RCBS Jr3 and sometimes while trying to tighten the but by hand I moved the die. Guess I'll get use to it.

Jim

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

[HAWKEYE10]

Originally Posted by Rule3

Lee makes lock rings for their dies now if you want to waste your money.
The standard o ring lock rings work just fine. I have many. many of their dies. All dies are on their own separate turret. I need to use a wrench to loosen them. Never had a problem with a die becoming lose. I really do not understand how folks complain about them other than they do not tighten them securely to begin with.

I agree Lee's O ring lock rings are the best in my opinion. Don

[Rollbar]

Originally Posted by HAWKEYE10

I agree Lee's O ring lock rings are the best in my opinion. Don

I guess I need to just get use to working with them Don.

[lebomm]

My vote goes to the Hornady crossbolt-style steel rings, with RCBS's aluminum version a close second. I have dies from a half-dozen mfr's, and am always on the lookout for the "clamp type" lockrings to replace the setscrew type. No damage to the die's threads, easy to release, and easy to reposition or return to position. I find the Lee O-ring locks adequately secure, but more trouble to adjust or loosen die from press.
Oh, and BTW, yes, you should use a lock ring on each die, don't omit 'em ! You want adjustments to be your idea, not the machine's.
JMHO

Larry

[fredj338]

I don't know how you keep dies in the right spot on th epres sw/o lock rings fo some sort. The Lee are, as usual, ****. They can't be locked in place so minor adjustments have to be made everytime you remove them. Fotunately, all lock rings fit all dies, so buy some other rings.

[Cdog]

Originally Posted by fredj338

I don't know how you keep dies in the right spot on th epres sw/o lock rings fo some sort. The Lee are, as usual, ****. They can't be locked in place so minor adjustments have to be made everytime you remove them. Fotunately, all lock rings fit all dies, so buy some other rings.

The OP is using a turret press. There will be no need to remove them each time.

Some brands will be too large to easily tighten all three or four in the turret. I prefer Lee rings on any brand turret press. Tighten them down and forget them.

[Maximumbob54]

If you are using the single stage press that you have to constantly remove the dies then I don't care for the Lee rubber o ring for setting the lock rings. I vastly prefer Hornady's split lock rings with the milled flats on the sides.

If you are using the Lee dies in something like the Classic Turret where you will set them in the turret and hardly ever remove them but for a deep cleaning then I feel like the rubber o ring works just fine. Also, I've found that the Hornady split lock rings don't have enough clearance in the turret head to tighten all four down.

So it really depends to me on how you are using your dies. If I had the Lee single stage presses that have the quick change bushing then I would buy the Lee split lock rings that are built into the quarter turn bushings. That way I would be sure nothing ever changes as I twist them in and out all the time.

I will admit that I didn't care for the Lee o ring on the Hornady orings. I don't like the thought of both of them trying to hold at the same time. But that may just be me being OCD since it worked well enough at the time.

[Big Fred]

I just drill and tap my Lee die lock rings for a set screw. Works great.

[Rule3]

Yes, all 50 or so of my Lee dies are held in place on a turret plate so they are not moved out unless I clean them. Even with my LEE Challenger breech lock press once they are tightened down ( I use finger tight plus a slight turn with a adjustable wrench), they are there to stay.

I suppose if you unscrew them every day they may get loose as the o ring will wear out. Once they are locked on a turret they ain't going anywhere.

If they loosen using the breech lock then you removing the dies incorrectly and turning the die not the breach lock insert.

So if I bought say Hornady Sure Loc rings (6 packs) for all my dies it would cost over $150, or $204 for the Lyman

Hornady Sure-Loc Die Locking Ring 7/8-14 Thread

[Rule3]

Originally Posted by Big Fred

I just drill and tap my Lee die lock rings for a set screw. Works great.

Now it's good to have a thinker and creative person in the crowd!

Excellent idea.

[dkals]

Originally Posted by Maximumbob54

If you are using the single stage press that you have to constantly remove the dies then I don't care for the Lee rubber o ring for setting the lock rings. I vastly prefer Hornady's split lock rings with the milled flats on the sides.

If you are using the Lee dies in something like the Classic Turret where you will set them in the turret and hardly ever remove them but for a deep cleaning then I feel like the rubber o ring works just fine. Also, I've found that the Hornady split lock rings don't have enough clearance in the turret head to tighten all four down.

So it really depends to me on how you are using your dies. If I had the Lee single stage presses that have the quick change bushing then I would buy the Lee split lock rings that are built into the quarter turn bushings. That way I would be sure nothing ever changes as I twist them in and out all the time.

I will admit that I didn't care for the Lee o ring on the Hornady orings. I don't like the thought of both of them trying to hold at the same time. But that may just be me being OCD since it worked well enough at the time.

On my Lee single stage I bought the Hornady lock nload conversion Hornady Manufacturing Company :: Reloading :: Metallic Reloading :: Press Accessories :: Miscellaneous :: Lock-N-Load® Bushing Press Conversion

And I also bought lock n load conversion kit for the dies and I use the lee rubber o rings and they never move. Hornady Manufacturing Company :: Reloading :: Metallic Reloading :: Press Accessories :: Bushings :: Lock-N-Load® Conversion Kit

When I need to change a die it's just a little turn and I never worry about any adjustments.

[Rollbar]

So that is what that guy used in his YouTube video.

Cool. Just depends on how long the LCTurret will take to get here.

I'm going to the Midway site and asking to confirm that my Feb order is in fact pushed back to June.

Thanks again all,
Jim

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

[Maximumbob54]

I still load my .30-30 and a few others on the single stage. I like the sure feeling of bumping the shoulder back and having that feel for each action that a single stage does. So only the dies that I'm sure I'm only going to use on the single stage get the different rings. I would never say to upgrade all your lock rings as that would be beyond expensive.

I do like that idea of just drilling and tapping them. Someone told me long ago to drop a small lead shot bead under the set screw and that works out really well.

[Rollbar]

I'm really liking the RCBS Jr3. The feel of what it is doing is teaching me a lot but I still want the LCTurret.

I will use the Jr3 for my rifle and therapudic applications.

Been even thinking of canceling the LCTurret but then I can't take the chance of not having it in stock.

I still agree after using a single stage that a newbie should start on one, glad I had the opportunity to do so even if I have only logged 15 min on one.

Jim

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

[Cdog]

I admit to being spoiled by the convenience of changing turrets on the Lee, but screwing in a die properly ain't a big deal.

My turret is used as a convenient single stage. It makes caliber change a matter of dropping in the turret and making sure I have the proper shellholder.

Just a thought, but if just learning, I'd recommend practicing the adjustment procedure until it becomes a simple task with every aspect of it making perfect sense.

[Rule3]

The only advantage of a turret over a single stage is you do not have to handle the same piece of brass 3 or 4 times. Production is a little faster but not that much. I have the Breech lock press which I started with and the Classic turret. The breech lock or the Hornady similar system, lets you keep the dies set and no need to screw , unscrew and re adjust each time. Same with the turrets have all in a seperate turret and changing calibers takes 2 minutes. Still only will get 150 maybe 200 rounds an hour.

[dkals]

Originally Posted by Rollbar

So that is what that guy used in his YouTube video.

Cool. Just depends on how long the LCTurret will take to get here.

I'm going to the Midway site and asking to confirm that my Feb order is in fact pushed back to June.

Thanks again all,
Jim

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

I only use the Hornady lock n load on the Lee single stage classic that I have and I do not see how the system would work on the classic turret that I also have. The rubber o rings lock down fine on the classic turret. What I do is get the die to where it needs to be and I hold the die in place at the top with my left hand while I finger tighten the O ring with my right hand. After finger tight I grab a pair of plyers and tighten a little more while still holding the die with my left hand. The key is hold the die with your left hand while you tighten and it won't move. Hope this helps.

[Cdog]

I have the both the Lee Classic Turret and Lee Classic Cast Breech Lock.

As I stated earlier, I use the turret as a single stage too. The auto index feature has never been used.

I sold an RCBS turret for enough to pay for both these. Of the two the turret sees the most action. I leave my handgun calibers setup complete with the Pro Auto Disk measure. I'm ready to load in seconds.

I use the lock ring eliminator on the single stage. They seem to lock up tighter in the breech lock. Both are great values. Either system works for me.

[dickttx]

Originally Posted by Maximumbob54

I do like that idea of just drilling and tapping them. Someone told me long ago to drop a small lead shot bead under the set screw and that works out really well.

Once you squeeze down on the lead shot you might as well have welded the die in place. I hated the old RCBS dies that were like that. No adjustment after you have done it.

[Fredo Batali]

I replace the brass set screw in my RCBS lock rings with a steel one from the local hardware store. RCBS used to use steel set screws with a ploymer bead but needed to reduce production costs while increasing retail prices (I guess) and replaced them with *** brass set screws. For the polymer bead I use a small piece of .95 weed wacker line, works great.

De Oppresso Liber