annealing 44 mag brass?

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Anybody ever try annealing 44 mag brass? Did it do any good? I have a fair amount of old Midway (maker unknown) 44 mag brass I've reloaded a good number of times. Most loading were well within 44 SP pressures. I'm figuring there has to be some serious work hardening going on although I don't recall hardly any splits. I'm wondering about getting a new propane torch and annealing to get more life. Anybody have any success with annealing 44 mag brass or similar? Did it do any good?
 
As I recall, annealing is for bottle neck cartridges. That is brass that gets worked a lot. I wouldn't think the area where it crimps would need annealing.
 
Yeah, I know it's normally done with bottleneck cases. However, well used revolver brass, specifically 38 brass (my experience), will frequently start cracking at the case mouth, and I assume it's from work hardening from repeated crimping. Of course brass that's frequently loaded hotter can split farther down the case. I suppose a batch of 44 mag brass that's getting a bit old could be trimmed to 44 SP length and loaded for same. That might trim off enough of the work hardened brass. I don't know and I'm just speculating. If I did trim a big batch I'd have to figure out how to hook up a drill to my old Forester trimmer.
 
The guy that modernized the Silhouette Shooting game, Elgin Gates, in his book on competitive reloading, talks about brass prep (including annealing straight wall cases) as being the same for all types of cartridge brass.

Mike Venturino, noted columnist on reloading and multi time National BPSC Champ talked about annealing straight wall and bottle neck cartridges for every loading.

Not only will annealing give extended case life, it
helps provide uniform neck tension for consistent bullet release! It definitely makes a difference at 100 yards, I don't know about less than that.

Handloader Magazine #308 (June 2017) has an extensive article by Mike V. with informative equipment lists, along with the advertising gave several sources of necessary tools and chemicals (for proper temperature reading). I just reread it last week in the small white reading room!

Ivan
 
IMHO, that 8th of an inch (1.285 vs. 1.160) between the two cases ought to cover a lot of ground viz'a-viz' any rim (over-?)worked by crimping and/or normal expansion...

I'd pick out some of the most worn of the O/P's "fair amount" and give 'em a trim and see how they turned out. Since the 44 Special pressures should be considerably less loading up a couple dozen should tell the tale.

Just FINDING 44 Special cases has become somewhat of a challenge...

Cheers!
 
I've been able to get more than enough mileage out of straight walled cases to make me think the juice just isn't worth the squeeze as far as annealing.


If you have the spare time and inclination, I don't think it could hurt.
 
The 44 Magnum is my most favorite round for reloading, I started in '88 (although as I near 74 my tastes are running to smaller cartridges, 9mm and 45 ACP). I have never annealed a case mainly because buy the time I start finding split necks, I frigger the case can be "worn out" in other areas besides the neck/mouth...
 
I'm mostly a handgun shooter for fun and competition. Yes, straight wall brass will crack at the mouth. These cracks are primarily caused by flaring the case mouth while dropping powder in so the bullet will enter the case without damage. Over time the flaring and crimping operations take a toll. Really old brass becomes brittle with the passage of time and cracks easily. That brass can be revived by judicious annealing of the case mouth area. Nickel plated brass gets brittle sooner than plain brass and will eventually split lengthwise. I've never tried to salvage nickel brass--RIP.
 
I've been able to get more than enough mileage out of straight walled cases to make me think the juice just isn't worth the squeeze as far as annealing.


If you have the spare time and inclination, I don't think it could hurt.

For another good article on annealing go to Bison Ballistics...

Cheers!
 
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