Back in the really old days, most every reloader used lanolin as a resizing lube, and it was sold as such. Some called it Wool Fat. I have never tried it. I don't even know where I would find it if I wanted any.
Dillon sells Lanolin already mixed with alcohol and ready to use. Probably others sell ready to use Lanolin. If you want to DIY it, you can buy pure Lanoiln oil on Amazon
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00028MLKC?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k4_1_7&=&crid=3TUYQGHB8MTU6&sprefix=lanolin&th=1[/ame]
Folks say to dilute it 1:8 or 1:10 with 99% Isopropyl alcohol but I found that doesn't readily dissolve lanolin. From the many other threads about this, I picked up the idea of using HEET in the red bottle
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/ISO-HEET-28202-Fuel-line-Antifreeze-Injector/dp/B000V4HC7Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=iso+HEET&qid=1682905238&sr=8-1[/ame]
That stuff dissolves lanolin very well. It is 99% IPA but whatever the other 1% is, it is much better for dissolving lanolin. I am guessing it's ether.
FYI, Dillon also sells a non-lanolin "synthetic" lube which is what they recommend for handgun loading. They still recommend lanolin type for rifle.
Most people think about lube for the outside of the case and while it is said to not be needed if you use carbide dies, Dillon recommends it anyway. However, you may have felt your case hang up or get stuck coming out of the expander die and also the crimp die. This is due to the brass galling or cold welding to the expander. You need a clean and polished expander die and lube inside the case to stop the galling. Makes a huge difference. Dillon has assured me that both of their lubes as well as One Shot do not affect the burn inside the case.
See my recent thread where I got heavily into the polishing aspect.
Brass deposit form vertical lines on Dillon powder funnel