Trying to identify my .38 top break revolver

Hi guys I just inherited a cool S&W .38 Top break revolver. You will have to forgive me as I am just getting into guns and may not know a ton about them. I read the sticky thread on info to give to help you all idinify it so I'll try to be as thorough as possible.

So the revolver I inherited is a .38 revolver. I checked all over the gun for a model number but there isn't one on it. I checked around the yoke and didn't see one. This revolver is a top break and has a piece that automatically pulls the the spent shells out when it's opened up. The serial number is on the butt of the gun and is only 4 numbers and no letters. It is 7754.

A little info I got about this particular gun was that it was either a grandparent or great grandparents who was a police officer and it was the one issued to him. They believe he was working sometime in the 30's possibly but that may be incorrect. I read another post from a different forum that had a pretty identical story and I think somone said it may be a .38 special 2nd model but didn't see any pictures of it so I'm just guessing it may be that cus the story's are so similar.

I have had a hard time posting pictures on this sight so I can try again but in case it doesn't save I'll try and describe it as best I can.

The handle of it is a black plastic with the S&W emblem molded into the top of the plactic handle. Aside from the it's all stainless I believe. The serial number is on the butt of the gun and the only other markings are on the top of the barrel and it looks like a bunch of patent info. I measured the barrel by sticking a rod into it as far as it would go and measured the rod at 5 inches so I'm pretty sure that's a 5" barrel if I measured correctly. The hammer on it is visible as well. I think that's about as much info as I can give. I'll see if I can also upload a pic and let me know if any other info would help I could provide. Thanks everyone!!!

Oh also I live in California and I know rules are pretty strict here and I googled what I need to do to register it. I found a form to fill out not sure if that's all that needs to be done. This gun has been in the family for a while and has no paper trail that I know of so not sure if that's somthing needed it not. Any info on this aspect would also be helpful. Thanks again.

So, its a top break in 38. A little more info needed. Is there a hammer?
Could it be nickel? That is a good start. Is there a hinge on the bottom of the frame that the barrel rotates on? Best

There are a couple different models that this gun could be. Is it a double action or single action revolver ? ( Double action would be : Does it cock and fire when you pull the trigger, or do you have to manually cock the hammer first before you pull the trigger to fire ? ). If it's a double action, it would be a .38 Double Action, 2nd model, made in 1880 and is an antique under Federal laws, however Calif. does not recognize federal laws. No registration is required for the gun in Calif. ( I also live in CA, so see PM for info on this gun in CA. ) The gun is a .38S&W black powder caliber, not a .38 Special. Modern .38S&W ammo.will work 0K in the gun, if it's in good mechanical condition. If it's a single action revolver, there's a couple different models it could be, both spur trigger and bow trigger guard guns, but still antiques under BATF rules. Ed.

If your revolver says: Smith & Wesson, Springfield, Mass. and has patent dates on the top of the barrel; then it seems to be a .38 Double Action, 2nd Model. The caliber is .38 S&W and not .38 Special. The barrel is measured from the front of the cylinder to the end of the barrel. I'd guess the barrel length is 3 1/4" as I suspect that you measured the length of the cylinder also. The revolver was made from 1880- 1884 and there is no need to register it as it is an antique made before 1899.

Add: opoefc types faster than I can.

Pictures of the gun I took

As I said I've had problems posting pics on here for some reason but I'll try anyhow.

Now we are cooking, #7754, .38 Double Action, Second Model in 38S&W cal. 1880-1884. A non-gun. The hammer. trigger and lock appear to be the correct color. Frame is nickel. Now, the inside of the right grip should indicate a number that will match the butt number? Value? Keep it, it belongs in the family. Best

.38 S&W

This gun is deff a double action as the cylinder rotates and fires which each pull of the trigger. Not sure if it matters but there also isn't a need to ever manually cock the hammer cus it is always ready.

Sweet this seems to be correct most of what you described seems to be what I have. That is substantially older that I thought it was if that is the case. It came with about 12 rounds that appear to be older but if it's that old I won't be firing it.

That brings me to my next question. I know the restoring a weapon can decrease value not that it matters as I won't be selling It but it's in pretty rough cosmetic shape, and the hammer where you put your thumb on to pull it back broke off. Is there any way to replace that part and perhaps clean up the gun without destroying is value or collection value. If it's truely an 1880's gun I would like to put it on display for a long time. And pass it down the line keeping it in the family.

gmborkovic said:

Now we are cooking, #7754, .38 Double Action, Second Model in 38S&W cal. 1880-1884. A non-gun. The hammer. trigger and lock appear to be the correct color. Frame is nickel. Now, the inside of the right grip should indicate a number that will match the butt number? Value? Keep it, it belongs in the family. Best

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Here is my standard answer to your restoration question, its your gun and your money. Do what you wish, Just remember, somebody in your past
cocked that hammer with his thumb. My advice, oil and a cotton rag wipe down. Enjoy, best. Mike

It is maybe a $200 gun. A hammer, if one could be found, and a nice renickel would cost more than that. Clean it and call it Grandpa's gun.

Oil it. Wipe it down and don't mess with it. The condition doesn't matter with a family heirloom that won't be sold. Many on this forum wish that they had such a piece with the family history. I recommend documenting everything that you have been told and keep that documentation with the revolver. If possible, talk to relatives that might know something about the revolver, the history or the story about the ownership before you acquired it. If one waits too long; the story will be lost forever.

I would not renickel it, that would ruin any value. But replacing the broke hammer is an option. Can you give me a close up photo of the hammer? I may have one.

Welcome to the forum.

You may also want to check to see if the hammer spur is broken off or if it was "bobbed" on purpose. Some folks did not like the long hammer spur on some S&W's and had them removed. I have several .22/32's in my collection where the hammer was bobbed and supposedly it was because it could bite the web of your thumb during double action firing.

With the smaller or "pocket" type of guns, many times the hammer was bobbed to make it easier to draw the gun from a coat or pants pocket without the hammer catching on ones clothing. One of the reasons that S&W made and sold hammer less versions of some of their guns.

If the hammer has a rough cut to it then it was probably dropped and as you originally thought broken. If the tip is smooth or rounded then it was possibly bobbed on purpose.

I believe that you can clean the nickel finish with a product called Flitz using a very soft cotton cloth and very gentle rubbing. You are only looking to remove surface film and to halt further corrosion, not rub your way to China. Once cleaned, apply some Renaissance Wax and then buff with the soft cloth. The gun will shine nicely and be protected from further damage and allow handling without too much concern about leaving fingerprints.

That makes a lot of sense. The top of the spur is for the most part pretty flat across. Doesn't look like it was filed or anything but it's not jagged or anything.

I took it to a local gun shop and he said it was a piece of junk and to take it to the police station that is doing gun buybacks and get my $100 haha. I didn't really tell him about the history of it but he told me these types of guns would have the top release lever wear and when it would shoot it would release and the bullet would hit the ground at their feet.

Anyhow I'll check out the cleaning solution. I cleaned it up a bit the other day. I appreciate the offer for the hammer if it was the same but I think I will leave it for now because one of my family members at one point had his thumb on it. That's kinda cool. Thanks again everyone.

he told me these types of guns would have the top release lever wear and when it would shoot it would release and the bullet would hit the ground at their feet.

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I have to say that he is telling you a very creative story and I have never heard of a top break popping open after firing and having the bullet hit the ground at ones feet and I've been around guns for almost 60 years and a member of the forum for 16. The older S&W's may not be black plastic wrapped around titanium, bitanium, scandium or dandium but they are still very popular with many folks. Sounds like this dealer just wasn't one of those folks.

If you decide you want a hammer or want it worked on, let me know.

I'm great for opinions: they're like bellybuttons; everyone has one. Find a different gunsmith. Hopefully one that wasn't weaned on the plastic stuff. I'll add: roll up the cuffs; it's too late to save the shoes.

If you are just now getting into guns please listen to this advice

Do not do anything at all with that gun short of wipe it down with an oiled rag. Learn, collect, learn, and learn more. This way you will avoid doing something you might think is a good idea now only to later realize its a bad idea.

That story from your Gunshop guy is to put it politely, ridiculous!!
For the gun to open when fired it would have to so worn out that the Top Catch would be barely holding the gun together. I've never seen one anywhere near that bad; they made these revolvers so durable that more often than not, they are still tight after all this time and if anything goes wrong; it's usually a tiny leaf spring inside that that keeps a part in place and the gun wont even fire or the trigger jams or doesn't return proplerly. The idea that it would fire, open and shoot at your feet is I'd say, physically impossible. The fact that he called it ''A piece of Junk'' shows he knows absolutely nothing about this kind of Gun.

A replacement Hammer is certainly an option, but I would only consider it if you intend to shoot it.
I clean my Guns (and all of mine are Antiques) with pure Alcohol to remove the decades of grease and grime but nothing more and then sparingly apply a good quality Gun Polish to protect all surfaces and a little buff with a soft cloth to add a little lustre. That's it, no more unless you have loose, flaky rust.

Going by the overall look of your Gun, it hasn't had a hard life and is likely quite alright to shoot the correct Ammo for it as previously described. Best to find someone who knows Guns of this Era to check it out and give you the all clear to shoot it.

These are fantastic little guns and as you already know; a great Family Heirloom to cherish and preserve.