1917 Parts/Schematic

craiggf

craiggf

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I have a 1917 (.45) that I am attempting to get working again.(price was REAL low, so I am sticking to it).:cool:
I have replaced the main spring (broken) and rebound slide (hammer rest was filed off by someone). Now I can not get the cylinder hand to lie correctly as detailed in Kuhnhausens' shop manual.
The rebound slide spring was also replaced as an ill-fitting spring was jammed into the slide...I am beginning to think the
cylinder hand in it is wrong also. It does not look like the one illustrated on page 16 (Kuhnhausens') and the schematic at Numrich parts doesn't help (they are also sold out of the part and have no detailed image of it) does anyone know where a good pic of the correct cylinder hand would be? or a good manual of just the 1917?

thanx:)
 
You can get 1917 parts from Poppert's Gun Parts . I just ordered a few pieces from them to finish work on a Brazilian I have been bringing back to life.

I haven't found a good schematic specifically for a 1917, but any schematic for an early N-frame should do if its just the hand you're trying to come to terms with.
 
Here are images.
As far forward as the hand will go, trigger in full forward.

1917-1.jpg




cylinder hand showing pin configuration which does not match with the manual.

1917-2.jpg
 
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GunParts

I found this page in a GunParts catalog. There appears to be no copywrite. If mods think there is a problem feel free to delete. This might help others who wish to copy the page.

Bruce

 
That looks like the one a numrichs and unfortunately, not enough detail to tell what the cylinder hand really looks like.
Thanks anyway
 
Maybe this will help. Here are the hand and trigger from my Brazilian, made from early 1920s parts.

It looks like you have the correct hand.

IMG_0155.jpg


If you look inside the trigger, note that there is a transfer bar driven by a little coil spring. That is what keeps tension on the hand. When you put the hand in the trigger, the little pin must go UNDER the transfer bar. You will probably need to push the bar out of the way with a small screwdriver or bent paper clip to get the little pin in the right place.

IMG_0157.jpg
 
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OK,
That is what I thought, but I'll be hornswaggled (to use a nicer phrase than desired) if I can figure out how to accomplish that. It seems like that is not possible.....I will have to take a closer look here, and see if senility is getting in the way......:cool: will advise
BTW...when you mention the transfer bar, we are talking about the bar with the lil ball on the top that goes in the cavity on the bottom front of the rebound slide....correct?


thanx
 
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First, my apologies for writing "hammer" when I meant "trigger" in the preceding post. Just fixed that.

Look in the lower photo above. You'll see a coil spring in a little window in the front of the trigger. The transfer bar I mentioned is the piece of metal that is pinned in the trigger and whose end rests on top of that spring.

To mount the hand, put the big hand pin in the hole part way, but not enough for the little pin to get through the side of the trigger. Then use a small tool to press the other end of the transfer bar up against the slight spring pressure. Then push the hand in the rest of the way, making sure the hand is leaning forward so the little pin goes under what I'm calling the transfer bar.

This does not involve the bar with the ball end that goes up against the rebound slide.
 
I was right! It was senility.....
On closer inspection, I saw the transfer bar, which the manual does not refer to and calls it the torsion spring ( and interestingly enough there is no pic actually showing it in place). Previously I did not even see it as when piece is dissasembled, it rides right on top of the trigger lever and because it does not protrude outside of the slot in the trigger assembly, it looked like part of the trigger lever.
Once I got them separated in the slot it was a piece of cake.

I haven't stripped a revolver down this far in decades, I like my 1911's too much I guess (nah...not possible to like 1911's too much), but I am getting into working on revolvers again now that I am (happily?) retired......

thanx again, very helpful......this piece was in grim shape, and I've decided to try my hand at fixing one up.......

:cool:

P.S Now i am having a problem with the base of the cartridges cases dragging on the frame in one spot, does anyone know the correct clearances with the cylinder face and rear? -- or-Can you tell me the dimensions of your cylinder front to back?
 
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