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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #1  
Old 01-17-2016, 09:18 PM
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S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B. S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B. S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B. S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B. S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B.  
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Default S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B.

Greetings all,

I am a (new) proud owner of a Pre-Model 10 "38 S&W SPECIAL CTG" as stamped on the barrel. This is a 5-screw (one screw in front of the trigger guard), 5 in. barrel, blued, fixed sights construction. The serial number on the butt and cylinder is 6400xx and the serial number on the barrel (under ejector rod) is B 6400xx. No model number on the inside of yoke.

I have no interest in it's value but have a great deal of interest in it's date of birth. Plus any other fun-facts that may help us all connect with our history of firearms. If only this gun could talk...

Please see attached photos and much thanks on any help anyone can offer me.

"In GOD I Trust, all others bring data"
Steve
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File Type: jpg SW Pre10 38spcl1.jpg (148.1 KB, 184 views)
File Type: jpg SW Pre10 38spcl2.jpg (147.1 KB, 165 views)

Last edited by threetalltree; 01-17-2016 at 10:16 PM. Reason: Correction
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:38 PM
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Welcome! It was produced in the mid-late 1930 decade, and at that time it was called a .38 Military & Police. It has a blued hammer and trigger, not case-colored, which suggests it has been refinished. Hope this is helpful.
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:41 PM
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S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B. S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B. S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B. S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B. S&W 38 Special Pre-Model 10 D.O.B.  
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Thanks murphydog...very helpful.
Steve
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:57 PM
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Your gun still has the small S&W logo on the left side; I believe that changed in about 1937 back to the large one on the right, so your gun is from before that. The B in front of the barrel serial indicates that it left the factory originally blued, by the way. Unfortunately, most refinishers can't seem to leave well enough alone and do the hammer and trigger also. The original stocks would have been checkered wood with a silver S&W logo medallion. These can be found if you want to get the gun back closer to its original appearance.
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:12 AM
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As Alan said, it is a .38 Military & Police revolver from the 1930s. Since it has the older long action and no sliding hammer block safety, it really isn't considered a "pre-model 10." But it is one of the ancestors to the Model 10.

Here's a picture of what the original stocks looked like.
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:19 AM
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Since you are looking for facts, I'll throw another one at you.

You correctly identified your K frame revolver (.38 M&P) as a five screw revolver. This model, in its various iterations, had five frame screws from 1905 until about 1956. In 1905, the cylinder stop plunger retaining screw in the trigger guard was added, making it a 5 screw frame. In 1956, the top sideplate screw was eliminated, making it once again a four screw frame. The screw in the trigger guard went away in 1962 (by then it was the Model 10), making it a three screw gun.
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Old 01-18-2016, 03:10 PM
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During the Great Depression, sales fell into a deep slump, and it is not possible to determine an accurate shipping date without ordering a factory letter. The closest I have listed to SN 6400xx is 6408xx which shipped in 3/32. However, I also show serial numbers a bit lower which are known to have shipped in 1933 and 1934. About all that can be said is that this one likely shipped between 1932 and 1934. It is unfortunate that the original grips are no longer present, as that has a significant negative impact upon its value. "Pre-Model 10" as used by collectors indicates those M&Ps made generally between 1948 and 1957.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:42 PM
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Default More Fun-Facts

Awesome information people. I am enjoying this research and you all have provided me something to build on.

BTW, the gentleman I purchased this M&P revolver from brought in the wood grips today; no plastic here baby. They appear to be in good condition, yes? See attached.

I measured the B/C gap and found it to be 0.010" during "lock-up". I have read that some enthusiasts believe this to be too much even though the Speer reloading manual #14 states something like 0.001-0.012" for 38 Special loads. Any thoughts on the safety of this revolver?

Best regards,
Steve
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:33 PM
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Although the stocks look good, they are still incorrect for your M&P. Correct stocks can be found on eBay or one of the big gun auction sites. A barrel/cylinder gap of .010 is fine. Shoot the heck out of it.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threetalltree View Post
BTW, the gentleman I purchased this M&P revolver from brought in the wood grips today; no plastic here baby. They appear to be in good condition, yes? See attached.
They look to be in good condition, but I'm sure you recognize per Jack's photo that these aren't correct for your gun; they are post-WW II magna grips. But then, they would definitely look better on your gun than the rubber duckies
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:49 AM
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Welcome to the Forum. Five inch revolvers always feel good in my hands. I have one from the late 1940s. It still have the pre-war long action, like yours, and is wearing the Magna grips like the ones that you received.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:59 AM
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To measure the barrel-cylinder gap, it's best to first load the chambers with empty cases, to hold the cylinder forward.
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:11 AM
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I would try shooting it with the Pachmayers. If they fit your hands and feel comfortable they may be better than the originals, if you ever find any.

Don't let the wooden stocks go cheap. They may be "wrong" for this revolver, but diamond magnas are certainly worth something in their own right. You could sell / trade them if you want to look for stocks that are correct for that revolver. Being refinished, it will never be a collector piece anyways, so you may not want to bother.

I know you didn't ask, but I think it should be worth $300 easily, perhaps a hundred more, as a good reliable shooter / home defense revolver.
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:19 AM
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Welcome to the FORUM! You have what should be a fine shooter! Since it is a shooter, put on it whatever grips/stocks that feel/look good to you. On a collector gun you would want correct. I would stay away from hot loads. It is not designed for +P ammo. (who needs it for target shooting) Shoot, & enjoy it! Bob
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:36 AM
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"I would try shooting it with the Pachmayers. If they fit your hands and feel comfortable they may be better than the originals, if you ever find any."

I'll second that. I far prefer rubber grips (Pachs or Hogues) for utilitarian service. I have them on all my "Shootin' Irons." Pachs are better for larger hands, Hogues for smaller hands.
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:42 PM
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OK then, sounds like my wood grips are not original equipment, good info Jack. There are some numbers stamped on the inside of one; I will have to take another look and get back with ya. Snow removal first.

Good to know about the b/c stuff and that others are shooting similar models. This is my 1st used gun that I purchased only because it was meant-to-be. I always wanted a .38 S&W Special for my primary home/family defense tool and this one came along. I own several Glocks, S&Ws and such but I never knew that this firearm would put a spell on me...

Best regards,
Steve
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:52 PM
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...correction to my last post. It is not a gun, it is a firearm.
Steve
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