I have been looking for a trigger and hammer for a Model of 1926. Then I thought, what other models used the same hammer and trigger? Does the Second Model 44 use the same? What other models can I use to replace the hammer and trigger on my 1926?
Interchangeable Parts
- Thread starter Doug627
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Probably the most readily available would be the Model 1917 or the 2nd Model 44.
I can't say the 2nd Model's the same--but I can say the 2nd and the 3rd (Model of 1926) were made side by side from whenever the 3rd started (1926???) until the early '40's. I can also say the innards of their cousin (38/44 Outdoorsman) were almost certainly the same---same goes for the 357 Magnum----and that's all the N frames, right?
Find a friend with an N frame of the period, and swap the parts. They'll both work or they won't. $100 says they will.
Ralph Tremaine
Find a friend with an N frame of the period, and swap the parts. They'll both work or they won't. $100 says they will.
Ralph Tremaine
Although the hammers are different, both K and N frame triggers are interchangeable, IIRC. Keep in mind that unless the hammer and trigger assemblies came out of the same gun, they'll likely have to be fitted. They are not drop in replacements.
Another thing to keep in mind is fixed sight guns were set up entirely different than targets. The only objective difference I know of is trigger pull-----single action trigger pull was 3-4 lbs. on targets, 5-7 on fixed sight guns. I can also tell you how they got that way----but I can't explain it in plain English. It is entirely possible one (or all) of our armorers can translate S&W's lingo-------I can't.
To wit: "----------For these reasons a special type of trigger pull is desirable ---not by any means simply a very light pull, but one having the peculiar quality termed "short and crisp" by shooters. This not only requires a special type of notch and trigger point, but requires a different adjustment of the working parts of the action." So there you have it. Now for all of you experts----if you would be so kind, what is the special type of notch and trigger point? How does it differ from the regular, everyday notch and trigger point? And given the need for a different adjustment for the working parts of the action, just which parts are those, and what's different about the adjustment?
Take your time----no time limits apply.
Ralph Tremaine
To wit: "----------For these reasons a special type of trigger pull is desirable ---not by any means simply a very light pull, but one having the peculiar quality termed "short and crisp" by shooters. This not only requires a special type of notch and trigger point, but requires a different adjustment of the working parts of the action." So there you have it. Now for all of you experts----if you would be so kind, what is the special type of notch and trigger point? How does it differ from the regular, everyday notch and trigger point? And given the need for a different adjustment for the working parts of the action, just which parts are those, and what's different about the adjustment?
Take your time----no time limits apply.
Ralph Tremaine
cgt4570
Member
From inspecting and repairing both target and non-target K's and N's, I'm betting the above is about 90% sales hype and 10% reality.
Yes, the target sighted guns got more attention, but I'm leaning toward just a sharper edge and finer polish on contact points.
Yes, the target sighted guns got more attention, but I'm leaning toward just a sharper edge and finer polish on contact points.
This is me----biting my tongue-------
Ralph Tremaine
Ralph Tremaine
Ralph,
I’ve heard it described as a custom action job, i.e., shorter engagement of trigger sear in hammer notch and more precise shaping and polishing of the contact surfaces.
Target hammers and triggers interchange with their fixed sight counterparts. Just don’t expect the same fine trigger pull unless they’re installed as a matched set.
I’ve heard it described as a custom action job, i.e., shorter engagement of trigger sear in hammer notch and more precise shaping and polishing of the contact surfaces.
Target hammers and triggers interchange with their fixed sight counterparts. Just don’t expect the same fine trigger pull unless they’re installed as a matched set.
After the triple lock, hammers and triggers were pretty much standardized until post WWII. We find the post TL hammers still with thrust bushings in early 2nd models, 455 BSRs and 1917s, but they’ll work in 3rd models.
The post war transitional model hammers will work in pre war guns, they’re just notched under the hammer nose for the post war sliding bar hammer block safety. The next evolution short action hammer of course will not.
As a rule, if you just change the hammer, to eliminate extra fitting chores, always use the original DA sear (hammer fly). It’s been fitted to the trigger sear.
Generally used hammers and triggers in good condition usually drop in. New parts never fitted in a gun are most likely to need fitting.
cgt4570
Member
I would have to guess that my success with swapping out bad hammers and/or triggers with decent to excellent function has been maybe 70/30% over the years. That said, I usually try all I have in the stash and pick the best fit. Then, if I can't make it work with very fine stoning (as in breathing on with a couple strokes) or more often than not, I polish very lightly on a piece of glass with denim and Flitz.
If that doesn't work, I employ my local pro so I don't ruin a good hammer or trigger.
If that doesn't work, I employ my local pro so I don't ruin a good hammer or trigger.
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It is quite easy to be sure you get the right parts-
You need a Pre-War N frame hammer that has the "REG U.S. Pat. Off." stamped below the spur.
You need a Pre-War K/N frame trigger stamped "REG U.S. Pat. Off." stamped on the back.
S&W ordered that marking in 1926 a few months before the Mod 1926 was introduced. All but the very earliest Mod 1926s should have hammers and triggers marked that way.
Military Mod 1917 parts are NOT the same as later N frames.
Military Mod 1917 parts are NOT the same as early 44-2nd parts. Early 44-2nds have chafing bushings and the same shaped hammers/triggers as the later TLs and 455-2nds had. In a short time, the bushings were dropped and the shapes changed slightly.
In the late 20s or early 30s, the commercial 1917s evolved into using the same action parts as any other N frame. For some reason I do not know, the commercial 1917s never switched to the barrel shaped ejector rod knob and retained the mushroom on all the Pre-War versions that I have seen.
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Lee, I suspect S&W had a large supply of 1917 barrels with the stepped notch already milled in them and mushroom extractor rods in inventory to use up.
