Just picked this up for $400.00. Just wondering if anyone could say what they know about it. I had never seen one before and it looks well built. The serial number is k670 XXX. It has a little flame cutting so I would imagine it has been shot some. Prob 80-85% condition.
What weight of copper bullets shoot well, and what about cast? Have a bunch of 38 brass and a bunch of lead and casting gear.

Thanks all. Seems like a beautiful gun. Has target hammer and trigger.

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Great gun, better price!
148 gr cast wadcutters usually shoot well from it with the right load, but I don't reload so can't help you there.

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John

I'm sure someone will give more detailed information about your acquisition but you got an exceptionally good value for $400. I noticed that besides what appear to be correct vintage target stocks, it also has the target hammer and trigger. You did well, enjoy it!

Can you post a photo of the flame cutting? I am guessing it is not cutting but maybe the blue finish is missing on the top strap in line with the barrel to cylinder gap.

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S&WHF #946
S&WCA #3824

I had Model 14 few years ago can't remember maybe -3 . Your Model -2 1962 cylinder stop changed and delete trigger guard screw . Simpson LTD has a few listed you got a deal with current inflated prices

First, $400 for a Model 14 dash anything is a good price if it is in shootable condition. The Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson show it to have been made in 1966 near the end of production of the dash 2 variant.

The picture you show is far better than the 80-85% condition you mention, rather it looks to be 95% or better, at least on that side. If the cylinder is free of slop and both comes up to position crisply as the gun is cocked or fired double action and locks up tightly in firing position as it should, you have a winner. I question the presence of “a little flame cutting” and would suggest you’re probably looking at the little divot in the bottom of the top strap just above the barrel-cylinder gap. The factory machined that in when it was made.

As for ammo, if you have virtually any mould meant for use with 38 Special use, that revolver will consume it, but for best accuracy and longest life, mild loads behind a wadcutter or semi wadcutter weighing between 145 and 160 grains will probably be best. I shoot my K38 (pre Model 14) with 148 grain wadcutter (double end or hollow base) and 156 grain semi wadcutters over mild charges of Bullseye, HP38, or 700X .

Enjoy your new acquisition!
Green Frog

PS the “3 Ts” (Target trigger, hammer and grips) make that a premium version. The grips alone are probably worth about half of what you paid for the gun!
I just went back and noticed you haven’t posted since 2011. Welcome back. How did the 617 and LadySmith work out for you?

Thanks for the information everyone! I will get a pic under the strap when I pick it up. There is some wiggling in the cylinder, it’s definitely not “tight” which is one reason I thought that maybe I should not buy it. Here are some other pis I took at the shop, you can see the faint line I think is flame cutting, but I may be wrong? I don’t make mistakes tho. 🙄. Like this one, it is a 740 XXX serial number, what is the date range now?? Thanks again.

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Worked out great! Still have it and have acquired a couple other Smiths since then! Thanks for the welcome back.

That’s not flame cutting, the divot is a factory feature. I’d rate the gun at least 95% with the new pictures.

When the hammer is at rest, the cylinder needs a little wiggle room to function. It should be solidly locked when the gun is cocked and when the hammer falls and the trigger hasn’t been released. This is when the bullet in the chamber needs to be perfectly aligned with the bore and locked in place!
Froggie

Another thought. When you get ready to start reloading for your new acquisition, start a thread on this site down in the reloading section. You’ll get all kinds of good help down there! BTW, most of us who reload for handguns at all load or have loaded 38 Spl. There’s a ton of info about this popular round out there!
Froggie

Another PS: I looked at the later pictures again, and the SN appears to actually be K640XXX, which doesn’t change the value but suggests it’s a year older than I posted above. I don’t know why this thread has held my attention, but it’s a quiet Sunday afternoon here!
GF

I am in total agreement with green frog. The stocks alone are worth easily half the value of the revolver. I can't believe the prices on parts these days. Nice purchase, you did great!!

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AL, Patron NRA / WCSM member

OP:

A little flame cutting is normal, but likely a little build up of lead and loss of bluing. Be careful with tools, you will run some scratches across it that will bug you more. Work it with some Hoppe's or such.

Model 14's are great shooting guns and along with the Model 28 about the best value out there.

One year newer makes sense to me based on the diamond targets with the rounded groove surrounding the checkered area. I believe the change from square to rounded occurred in 1963 or thereabouts.

Mike

Post 1963




Pre-1963

Great deal and beautiful revolver. I have a 6” and an 8-3/8’s and both shoot anything exceptionally well. I’ve tried HBWC’s and Berry’s plated flat nose 125 and 158’s and some 158 polymer coated SWC’s and think I’m going to settle on 158’s, most likely the polymer coated swc’s. I load light loads using Accurate Nitro 100nf and find it’s very clean, accurate and less recoil than my comparable loads with Accurate #2 and 125’s and even HBWC’s and Bullseye.

I have one and use lead bullets only

1longshot,I like 158 gr anything in my 14-3.It is the best shooting revolver I own and puts the round right where it should be every time.In reality it makes me much better than I am.

Shooting with a 14 is much like cheating. Load it with 148 or 158 and you can't miss. That's an unbelievable price for that gun.

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

Yeah the target grips are worth $115 alone.
Generally the exterior looks quite nice.
Ejector rod shows some white and recoil shield has alot of cartridge impressions. So maybe hot loads were being fired.
Have the timing checked anyway.
Make sure it cycles all cylinders with ammo at the range.
If a chamber is difficult to rotate,it might point to need for cleaning and lube. Hopefully not a damaged cylinder ( happened to me w a nice early pre 14)

Thanks for all the feedback guys. As soon as I start loading I will let you know. I did notice the cartridge impressions in the recoil shield ad hat has me a bit nervous. If the gun is faulty the seller will exchange or return my money. He’s a good guy. How do I have the timing checked?

Beautiful revolver, great purchase! I have one just like it, a 6” 14-2 with diamond target grips I refurbished that I posted about a few weeks ago if you wish to search. Yours looks to be in really good condition. I recognize your concern for “tightness” but it would be difficult to shoot out a model 14 and still have it look like yours. I would measure cylinder stop width with calipers vs. cylinder notches, guessing your cylinder stop is rounded and worn from good use, this is an easy swap and fix. Definitely check for end shake and adjust with shims if excessive (doubt you have a yoke stretching tool and cutter). Ejector rod straightness is important, older ones are rarely straight after thousands of open/close cycles. I bought a Power Custom fixture for aligning all of mine as I saw it so much when looking at old used revolvers. Of course this is 101 stuff for any decent S&W gunsmith. I feel like somewhat of an idiot for posting stuff like this when the REAL experts like Carter (armorer951) are present on this forum.

I do reload a fair amount for this caliber. My no muss/no fuss load for K frames is the Missouri Bullet poly coated 158 grain SWC over Bullseye or HP-38 depending on the velocity I am looking for. I have also used CFE pistol as I have a bunch but like the others better.

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SWCA #3929, SWHF #1010

What a bargain! That gun with lead bullets should be awesome. Great snag. I like a light load of unique with 158 semi wadcutters. A better plinking load can't be found.

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"Free dirt, you dig."

Picked up the 14-4 and they had a 10-7. It is noticeably tighter at dropped hammer than the 14-4. Wondering if $600 is a good deal haha? See pic.

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If I'm reading the price tag correctly at $949 I think they realized their mistake selling you the model 14 for $400 and are trying to get their money back.

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Hand tighten only

No, they selling it for $600 out the door.