Just a question of the swing out tension on Smith & Wesson revolvers. In looking at a few used N frame (P&R) revolvers for sale, I have noticed that most of the cylinders swing out easily with little pressure when the cylinder latch is pressed, but recently I was looking at a revolver that swings out a little stiff with slightly more pressured required to rotate the cylinder out of the frame. I can see no obvious place that the cylinder crane is rubbing or other exterior cause. The revolver still operates fine, with fine lock up and timing, only the cylinder crane is a little stiff. This issue is not necessarily a deal breaker for me, but is one of those bits of knowledge I do not have. Is this the occasional occurance on a Smith, or is there any simple adjustment or lubrication that may tighten or loosen the cylinder crane? Once again thanks for any replies!
Cylinder swing out question?
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john traveler
Member
This is a common occurence with the S&W revolver design. The crane retaining screw (the one above and in front of the trigger) is fitted. If the sideplate screws are accidentally switched, the crane may be a bit stiff. Try changing the screws around, and add a drop of oil in the hole while you are at it.
m1gunner
US Veteran
Loosten the crane retaining screw and see if it frees up the swing. That screw is a fitted screw.
Thanks for the replies, just slightly loosened the screw above the trigger guard and the cylinder swings more freely. I then switched screws with the one at the back of the trigger guard, but it also caused the cylinder to swing out a little stiff. In comparing the two screws I can see no visible difference in the length, so I may just place a fine file or stone on the one and fit it myself. Thanks again, I did learn something new!
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dfariswheel
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Check the yoke carefully.
One problem with switched screws or mis-fit screws is the yoke gets chewed up where the screw contacts it.
When the "wrong" screw is put in the doer doesn't notice until he shoves the cylinder open and notices too late the drag.
Result is a gouged-up yoke which in turn often damages new screws.
One problem with switched screws or mis-fit screws is the yoke gets chewed up where the screw contacts it.
When the "wrong" screw is put in the doer doesn't notice until he shoves the cylinder open and notices too late the drag.
Result is a gouged-up yoke which in turn often damages new screws.
flagman1776
Member
If you are sure that the screw has not been switched & no burrs on the yoke.. A couple of light strokes with a stone on the tip of that screw will shorten it. Try it, repeat. Go slow.
