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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 05-13-2010, 09:05 AM
Anthony333 Anthony333 is offline
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Default Mod 66 no dash... barrel issues.

Hi fellow shooters,
I have recently purchased a well used 66.. ( 1974) it shoots real well , only problem is that the front sight is bent ? Well, at least thats what i originally thought.
Upon further inspection i beleive that the barrel is slightly twisted on its thread ?
Is this possible , as it has a pin in it ?
I have posted pictures of the top of the barrel and you can clearly see that it is about .5 MM to the left , and observe how far i have had to move the rear blade ... this gun is a bit loose in the crane area / and seems to have done about a Gazillion rounds ..lol
What could i do to fix this...... ?

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...cb87b609-1.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...72797929-1.jpg
I am planning a major revamp of this pistol , new screws , major polish, etc etc... so i want to get it right ...
Thanx for all input
Anthony
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Last edited by Anthony333; 05-13-2010 at 09:07 AM. Reason: Forgot the pictures....
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:23 AM
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aterry33 aterry33 is offline
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Anthony, I tried to find a stainless rear sight blade for a no dash 66 for a while and then gave up... I don't think there are any left out there.
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Old 05-13-2010, 07:31 PM
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Yes it is possible that the barrel is not on straight. I had a friend with an early 66 with a 6" barrel. It had the same problem as yours. He sent it back to S&W. I am not sure if they corrected the problem or replaced the gun.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:21 PM
M29since14 M29since14 is online now
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If you bring the front sight back more toward center by reclocking the barrel, your point of impact will shift more to the left, which would allow the rear blade to be adjusted more to the right. That's what you want, but your barrel being loose already makes it sound like you are going to have to have the barrel set back a bit less than a full thread. While that is being done, you may as well have the 'smith recut and polish the forcing cone.

Of course he is going to want to correct any endshake problems before he does any of this stuff.

If you need another rear sight blade (and screw, and nut), you might be able to take a regular blued steel one and have it hard chromed or dull-nickeled. Threads will have to be protected during the plating process.

Last edited by M29since14; 05-14-2010 at 04:23 PM.
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