BRINGING THE BLUE BACK M29-2

M

myhardtop

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2010
Messages
208
Reaction score
6
Location
Silverlake, Washington
JUST PICKED UP A 95% M29-2 MANUFACTURED IN 1980. THE BLUE IS VERY NICE ON THE BARREL AND CYLINDER. THE FRAME IS VERY NICE ALSO, JUST LACKS A LITTLE LUSTRE. WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST WAY TO GET IT SPARKLING ONCE AGAIN? BLUEING IS NOT SPARCE AT ALL. JUST A PICKY KIND OF GUY. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED. THANKS.
 
Register to hide this ad
When you start getting into the mid to late 70's both the polishing technique and the blueing process changed. You will sometimes run into guns from this time frame and later that show just a little cloudiness in the blueing. There is nothing wrong most of the time. Just doesn't show the shine that the early 70's and even earlier guns show. I don't know if your gun fits this description or not. Flitz is a great product just be careful. It will remove blue instantly. Thats ok to a point just don't go to far. At times you can ruin a guns finish faster than you can improve it. -Chad
 
Hit the finish with a strong white light and see if you see a brownish tint to the finish, this is a very light rust. If so saturate some #0000 steel wool with oil and lightly rub the blueing and wipe clean. I have done this to a few and has made a difference.
 
BRINGING THE BLUE BACK ON A M29-2

THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE SUGGESTIONS. I HAVE BOTH THE FLITZ AND RENISSANCE. WILL GIVE IT A TRY. YOUR RIGHT ABOUT THE BLUING ON EARLIER SMITHS. I OWN A MODEL 27 WITH NO DASH IN 5" AND IT IS GORGOUS. EXPECTED IT TO BE THE SAME. THE STEEL WOOL AND OIL IS ALSO A TRICK THAT I HAVE NEVER TRIED. THANKS AGAIN.
 
I wouldn't use steel wool. I'd go find some of the brass or bronze wool that you can get at places like Lowe's or Home Depot. It'll be a lot less risky in the long run.
 
Some guns of that vintage showed variations in the bluing. The frames could be one shade and the barrels another.
The frame could be deep deep blue and the barrel look like it was painted with metallic paint, or vice versa.

Mdl574.jpg


I am exaggerating a bit here, in some cases you can do more damage than good by trying to improve things.

Just sayin'.....
 
Last edited:
It is common of Model 29-2s made in the 70/80 time period to have variations in the polish between the barrel, cylinder and frame. The frame is usually less polished than the cylinder and barrel. There is nothing you can really do to change this. The variation in the blue between these parts that is sometimes seen is a result of barrels, cylinders and frames being batched blued separately, rather than blueing all parts of one revolver together (this was discontinued in the late 50s I believe).

Bill
 
I'd clean it very well with solvent then wax it really good and call it quits. Flitz is great on stainless guns but will take that blued finish off very quickly. Tried taking some rust off my ancient 94's receiver and wore through the blue before I realized it. I'd highly advise not using it as you could really mess it up. The finishes vary from the really good ones till they swapped their formula which was a big mistake IMO. My 74 vintage 57 has the old deep and shiney blue. My brothers 82 era 57's finish doesn't hold a candle to it. Both were new in the box. The bluing not rubbed off of my well used and fired 57 is still in great shape. His finish is much duller.
 
Last edited:
Flitz

I have seen some people say they use Flitz on blued guns to bring up the finish, and even one of these posts mention that it will remove bluing?

I am a bit confused.

I will say that I have tried flitz on one blued gun of 90's production that had an extremely dull finish. With a white rag, I was able to pull off loads of light orange surface rust that was about invisible at the gun shop. I'm sure this was what made the finish look dull. Will this ultimately remove the bluing if I continue to use it?? Or thin it?

I will say that the finish on this gun is noticably improved from where it was but its hard to say if it is better or worse than when the gun came off the assembly line when new. I don't know how good or bad the bluing was then.


Thanks
IC
 
Inspector-Callahan said:
I will say that I have tried flitz on one blued gun of 90's production that had an extremely dull finish. With a white rag, I was able to pull off loads of light orange surface rust that was about invisible at the gun shop. I'm sure this was what made the finish look dull. Will this ultimately remove the bluing if I continue to use it?? Or thin it?
Click to expand...

It will keep coming off brown and then black until you wear a hole in the metal. That is the finish coming off and then the metal coming off. Flitz is very abrasive. VERY LIGHTLY wiping the finish will indeed remove a little rust, dirt and other gunk, but, it is taking the finish off with it.

If you want to prove it to yourself, take a piece of silver, brass or other soft metal and start polishing it with Flitz. No mater how long you polish, the rag will keep turning black, even though the metal is gleaming. That black residue is the metal being removed. Though a tiny amount, the effect is cumulative.

I used Flitz for many 15 years or so on my Officers badge. It looks lik a river rock, alot of detail is gone, the edges are rounded. When I got promoted, I started using something less abrasive, like red jewelers rouge and now Mother Billet polish. The badge is getting worn, but, not nearly as quickly.

From Flitz's own website: 20-<40 Aluminum Oxide. Thats 20-40% abrasive.

http://www.flitz.com/images/document/MSDS_Flitz Polish_PASTE.pdf
 
I just went and read the packaging on my current tube of Flitz.
Right on the package in plain view it says gauranteed safe for use on blued firearms, then below that it lists by number all sorts of products it can be used on.

#3 says plainly- will not harm factory hotbluing.

Pretty plain and straight forwards if you ask me.

I don't know anyone who recommends using it every single time you clean your gun, but a once a year thorough cleaning won't hurt your gun.

YMMV
 
I bought a Model 15 a few weeks ago that was so dull I thought it was Parkarized. When I realized it was surface rust I VERY lightly polished it with Flitz. The change was dramatic.

Before

100_0178.jpg


After

100_0186.jpg


Yes, you have to be careful with it, but it does a good job.
 
BRINGING THE BLUE BACK

WELL I DID END UP USING THE FLITZ TO REMOVE THE SURFACE RUST. AS MENTIONED, THE BARREL AND CYLINDER WERE A VERY DEEP BLUE WITH THE FRAME BEING A LITTLE ON THE DULL SIDE. THIS BROUGHT IT BACK TO A BEAUTIFUL BLUE. FINISHED WITH RENISANCE WAX AND THIS TURNED OUT TO BE ONE BEAUTIFUL M29. NOT ONCE DID I EVER GET A WHITE RAG BLACK OR BLUE. I AM USED TO MY NICKEL PLATED GUNS GETTING BLACK ON THE RAG. ONCE AGAIN I FINISH OFF WITH THE RENISANCE WAX AND IT IS GLEAMING. ONCE AGAIN, THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE ADVICE.
 
Picreator makes both Renaissance Wax and Pre-Lim. Pre-lim is great for light rust and doesn't take off the blueing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Jeep 1
Model 29-2 with Magna Grips
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
A10
A10
JHW
  • Locked
Sold/Withdrawn Smith Wesson Model 19-3, 15-2, 66-4, and 586-1
Replies
4
Views
2K
wheelyfun66
wheelyfun66
George_in_SD
  • Locked
Factory Engraved S&W's, 38/44 OD Pre War, Multiple Colt SAA, US Army K38 & More!
Replies
2
Views
2K
Fullmetaljacket
F
F
Model 15-4 2" - date help?
Replies
6
Views
602
firefighterjohn
F
JHW
  • Locked
**SOLD** 1971 Smith Wesson Model 27-2 3.5in Blued Pinned & Recessed with Magnas
Replies
1
Views
2K
HCL3
H

Latest posts

Back
Top