Ok I know this topic has been brought up before, but I've got a 1974 Model 66 no dash in a 4'' and have been reading about the forcing cone issues. I don't shoot the gun all that much, but when I have I am been firing mainly .357 rounds. What would be the safest ammo to use? 110gr, 125gr? I know I could just shoot .38's through it, but when the gun isn't being used it sits with .357 rounds for home defense, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Model 66 ammo
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BUFF
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Commercial 110 grainers are loaded by the big three (W-W, R-P, Federal) to lower pressure levels than the heavier bullets. They would be pretty easy on your gun, as far as Magnums go.
125's have the reputation of being the hardest on the gun. 145's and 158's, not so bad, for Magnums.
125's have the reputation of being the hardest on the gun. 145's and 158's, not so bad, for Magnums.
MacGuffin
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From everything I've read on the subject (and I have a vested interest with a couple of M66s of my own), Buff's thoughts seem to be of the prevailing type. That's what I would go with.
Enjoy the revolver. It's a good one!
Murdock
Member
Mine is a -1, and I've bought into the argument that 158's are easier on the gun, if shooting magnums.
If I have understood the logic, the lighter, faster bullets smack the forcing cone harder and with hotter gasses, causing the trouble, if and when it occurs.
I think that in most cases the shooter's hand or wallet becomes exhausted before this really matters.
If I have understood the logic, the lighter, faster bullets smack the forcing cone harder and with hotter gasses, causing the trouble, if and when it occurs.
I think that in most cases the shooter's hand or wallet becomes exhausted before this really matters.
Buff's notes are a good "Cliff's Notes" on the subject.
I'm a big fan of the K frames and have a 6" Model 19 as well as a 2" Model 66 and a 4" Model 66.
I am well aware that the K frames shooting full load .357 can be hard on them more quickly than it is in L frame guns, so I also like to range-shoot with light loads but keep full-load .357's in them for carrying and home defense.
And this is where we get into the magic of reloading your own.
Shooting a lot of .38 Special in a .357 revolver can lead to erosion (over time) and fouling at the ends of the chambers due to the shorter ammo.
So what I have done for decades is to reload my .357 brass using the loads at the light end of the tables.
It's great fun to shoot my .357's with these light loads at the range, and it prevents the .38 Spec. fouling since I'm still using .357 brass.
Oh, and hey, if you want to have a LOAD of fun, try just loading your .357 brass with a primer ONLY, and then squishing and inserting a foam ear-plug even with the mouth of the brass.
Then throw some rubber ducks in the pool, relax in a lounge chair with beer, and blow those suckers away.
Just be careful not to mix up any live ammo with the "nerf" bullets.
But I digress...
I'm a big fan of the K frames and have a 6" Model 19 as well as a 2" Model 66 and a 4" Model 66.
I am well aware that the K frames shooting full load .357 can be hard on them more quickly than it is in L frame guns, so I also like to range-shoot with light loads but keep full-load .357's in them for carrying and home defense.
And this is where we get into the magic of reloading your own.
Shooting a lot of .38 Special in a .357 revolver can lead to erosion (over time) and fouling at the ends of the chambers due to the shorter ammo.
So what I have done for decades is to reload my .357 brass using the loads at the light end of the tables.
It's great fun to shoot my .357's with these light loads at the range, and it prevents the .38 Spec. fouling since I'm still using .357 brass.
Oh, and hey, if you want to have a LOAD of fun, try just loading your .357 brass with a primer ONLY, and then squishing and inserting a foam ear-plug even with the mouth of the brass.
Then throw some rubber ducks in the pool, relax in a lounge chair with beer, and blow those suckers away.
Just be careful not to mix up any live ammo with the "nerf" bullets.
But I digress...
roaddog28
Member
I use CCI Blazer 158 gr HP in my model 13,19 and 66. I also use it on my Ruger Police Service Six. This round is very easy on a K frame magnum and is very accurate. Velocity is around 1150 to 1200 fps and recoil is mild. I have included a link to Midway USA on the round. It is one of the cheapest rounds to shoot in a 357 magnum. I don't recommend shooting light rounds in any 357 magnum.
Regards,
Howard
Ammunition - Shop Premium & Discount Ammunition at MidwayUSA
Regards,
Howard
Ammunition - Shop Premium & Discount Ammunition at MidwayUSA
Flint Ridge
Member
My understanding is that a key factor in wanting to use heavier grain bullets, such as 148 or 158 gr is this: For the larger bullets it is fired, before it completely leaves the cylinder it has already engaged the forcing cone and lands of the barrel, pressures continue to build and send it on it's merry way.
Lighter bullets are shorter and there is part of the problem as the bullet is leaving the cylinder it has not yet come into contact with the forcing cone. So as these pressures are building and powder still burning for a brief moment the bullet is in space. This allows the super heated gasses to escape at high pressure contacting the frame as unspent powder is also blown around and also hitting frame and potential for cutting over time. Then the bullet gets into the barrel and goes about it's business downrange.
Hence my desire to use the heavier grain bullets myself.
Some have had problems others have fired thousands of hot 125 gr w/o issue. But for me it is not worth the risk as they are not making these anymore.
I'll send you an email to an outside link as well.
Lighter bullets are shorter and there is part of the problem as the bullet is leaving the cylinder it has not yet come into contact with the forcing cone. So as these pressures are building and powder still burning for a brief moment the bullet is in space. This allows the super heated gasses to escape at high pressure contacting the frame as unspent powder is also blown around and also hitting frame and potential for cutting over time. Then the bullet gets into the barrel and goes about it's business downrange.
Hence my desire to use the heavier grain bullets myself.
Some have had problems others have fired thousands of hot 125 gr w/o issue. But for me it is not worth the risk as they are not making these anymore.
I'll send you an email to an outside link as well.
I've always heard that 158 grain 357s are the ones to shoot in your 66. It's kinda' like shooting low numbered 03s. Some people believe it, some think it's hogwash. Personally I'm not taking the chance with my 1972 no dash. I'll unload a few 158's through it but mostly it's just +Ps and a good cleaning afterward.
The K frame magnums were developed as a police duty weapon, and 38 special ammo would be used for practice shooting and .357 Magnum ammo would be carried on duty. I've owned a number of M 19/66 revolvers over the years and most of the ammo run through them was 38 Special +P, or +P+. I always loaded them with 158Gr. .357 Magnum ammo for duty and S/D work.
Now retired I don't shoot nearly as much as I used to, but when I do, I shoot 100 rounds of assorted 38 special and 50 rounds of .357 magnum ammo. I see no need to take a chance on damaging a revolver that my not be able to be repaired or easy to replace.
Now retired I don't shoot nearly as much as I used to, but when I do, I shoot 100 rounds of assorted 38 special and 50 rounds of .357 magnum ammo. I see no need to take a chance on damaging a revolver that my not be able to be repaired or easy to replace.
So from what I am getting it looks like 110 gr or 140 gr rounds would be ok. May I also point out that the gun sat in a box unfired from 1987 until about 2006, my dad died in 1987 and that was his service revolver. Does the fact that it sat so long, reduce the risk of forcing cone damage?
Ammo for Model 66
My wife traded me her model 66 2 1/2 for my Glock 26. I went searching for some ammo and found Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel 135gr. I spent a lot of time doing research for a short barrel 327 and found that the best rated ammo is the Gold Dot 135 gr 38 Special +P. Less recoil and flash with superior performance and expansion. That is what I bought and am happy with the result. I also bought some 45 ACP Short Barrel for my Glock 30. This ammo is hard to find but worth the effort. Good luck. Mark
My wife traded me her model 66 2 1/2 for my Glock 26. I went searching for some ammo and found Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel 135gr. I spent a lot of time doing research for a short barrel 327 and found that the best rated ammo is the Gold Dot 135 gr 38 Special +P. Less recoil and flash with superior performance and expansion. That is what I bought and am happy with the result. I also bought some 45 ACP Short Barrel for my Glock 30. This ammo is hard to find but worth the effort. Good luck. Mark
