|
 |

10-12-2011, 11:21 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 477
Likes: 1
Liked 53 Times in 39 Posts
|
|
28-2 rear site blade height prob
Went to zero in my recently acquired 28-2 (non-pinned but recessed) with my standard load of 158 lswc (Bayou) over 7 grains of Uniques. Kept shooting low and I kept raising the rear sight. When it finally got close I realized the rear site was extremely high. When I stopped and measured, there was between .060 and .065 gap between the rear site notch and bottom of site assm. From the side you could see threads on the elevation screw! I ran the blade out the left side and it measured approx .126. Is this the standard height rear site for a 28-2? Rear blade appears to be original, I think. Looking on Midway for rear site blades I find many heights, .146, .160 and .190 seem to be the one's of interest. The .190 may be just a little too tall. Sites are listed as blue or black. Recommedations?
|

10-12-2011, 11:32 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,196
Likes: 1,243
Liked 931 Times in 432 Posts
|
|
The one in mine is .146"...and it hits just fine, no abnormal adjustments to the gun. My gun has a 6" barrel and this was discussed recently on here...the other poster had a 4" barrel but he had the same rear sight as me.
|

10-12-2011, 11:35 AM
|
 |
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: St Augustine
Posts: 2,292
Likes: 2,482
Liked 5,831 Times in 872 Posts
|
|
Call S&W (parts), they can tell you what sight blade is standard and sell you one.
|

10-12-2011, 11:52 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Schertz, Texas
Posts: 256
Likes: 7
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
|
|
You didn't mention the barrel length on your 28, but if it is a 4", then more than likely the .126" was probably the stock height. If you are pretty sure its a .126" in there now, I'd get the next one taller; I believe they still make a .136." If you can't get the .136" you may have to settle for the .146."
It is just my opinion, but the gap you are measuring (if I am understanding what you measured) is not really that bad. Most of my S&W's have about that same measurment.
Good luck with your project.
|

10-12-2011, 02:02 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 477
Likes: 1
Liked 53 Times in 39 Posts
|
|
Texas and others, it's a 6in. Looks like I only have about one thread left before it comes undone. The clearance under the rear part of the site with the windage screw is where I am referring to the .060 - .065 gap between the site and the cutout/notch in the frame just above the firing pin location. Most of my K,L and N frames have about .010 to .025 gap. We used to use feeler guages here to adjust sites when shooting silloutes years ago.
|

10-12-2011, 02:14 PM
|
 |
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: BC, & soon, Mexico again!
Posts: 1,323
Likes: 190
Liked 2,159 Times in 614 Posts
|
|
I will probably get roasted for saying this, but down here we have found a wide variance in the heights of rear-sight blades on any number of Model types. What we try to do is to sight whatever particular revolver we are working on in to the 158 grain Lead SWC at 820 fps and have the rear sight down as close to the frame as possible to allow for upward adjustment for distance shooting. Our backstop is 200 yards back, so we can have fun with metal plates and stuff quite far back should we want to.
You can get quite a range of rear blade heights from Midway or Brownell's, .126, .146 (there may be something inbetween but we have not used it) .160 and now a real slab of a rear sight at .196.
From the sounds of the gap between the bottom of your rear sight and your frame, you could use the .196. It has a deep enough notch and is certainly tall enough to file down a bit to fit if it turns out to be too tall. We have done this in a couple of cases. As far as I know, the .196 comes only as a black sight, no "white outline" version seems to be offered. At least I have not found one.
Whichever sight height you choose I suggest you buy the sight with the screw and springs and pins as an assembly. It´s just cheaper that way, and you need all those parts anyway as you generally have to break the old screw to remove the original blade before installing the new one.
|

10-12-2011, 04:06 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 550
Likes: 5
Liked 75 Times in 50 Posts
|
|
Not only do you have to break the screw to install the new blade(because the nut on the left side is staked in)but you will almost certainly lose the little detent spring or detent, probably both, when you reassemble it. They're tiny little things that like to vanish right when you need them both. Buy the kit...
My 4" 28-2 needed a .146 leaf, if that helps at all.
|

10-12-2011, 08:14 PM
|
 |
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Central IL
Posts: 23,057
Likes: 20,893
Liked 23,921 Times in 8,727 Posts
|
|
When removing the blade after breaking the screw, put the entire gun in a large plastic bag, so when the teeny tiny detent and spring go flying off to never never land you can capture them.
__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244
|

10-18-2011, 10:25 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 477
Likes: 1
Liked 53 Times in 39 Posts
|
|
Well I've found 146 and 160 blades but they are both the deluxe White Outline one's. The white just outline makes it difficult for me to center upp the front site. Can I put them in backwards to not see the white outline?
|

10-18-2011, 10:32 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Schertz, Texas
Posts: 256
Likes: 7
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
|
|
Yes, you can install it in backwards. If you want to take the white off, you may use acetone I believe. It won't hurt the blue but should take the white paint off easily.
|
 |
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|