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Model 10 Stuck Cylinder

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renconchem

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I have a Nickel Plated Model 10-6 .38 Spec I inherited from my grandfather. Recently, I pulled it out of the safe after having cleaned it and tried to open the cylinder and had to use a significant amout of force to get it open. First thing I checked to see if the extractor rod was tight and it was. Then I spun the cylinder to check if it was bent which it was not. I also checked the locking bolt to see if it was jammed up but it was moving freely. I also can depress the center pin easily enough without it getting stuck, but just to be though I unscrewed the extractor rod to see if it was dirty and added a drop of oil however the cylinder is still getting stuck. Short of taking it to a gun smith anyone have some idea what is going on?
 
Try looking under the ejector star: a bit of grit may have found its way underneath.
 
I would guess that it is most likely hanging up on the catch under the barrel. Check to make sure the cylinder center pin is completely flush with the extractor when releasing the cylinder, otherwise it requires a sustantial amount of effort to swing it open.

Something else to check,
Good luck,
Steve
 
I had a Model 317 with a sluggish cylinder that felt tight when opening and closing. I removed the cylinder and yoke and found that the frame opening that accepted the yoke was full of old oil and gunk. I cleaned the yoke and the frame opening then lightly oiled the yoke. After reassembling, it freed up significantly. Good luck.
 
Stuck Cylinder?

One thing that might be of concern, would be to check the tightness of the retaining screw for the yoke. The front screw in the sideplate might be overtightened, causing the yoke to not rotate easily.

Just a thought...
 
USBP SW said:
I would guess that it is most likely hanging up on the catch under the barrel. Check to make sure the cylinder center pin is completely flush with the extractor when releasing the cylinder, otherwise it requires a sustantial amount of effort to swing it open.

Something else to check,
Good luck,
Steve
Click to expand...

I suspect that this is your problem. The solution is to stone a few thousands of an inch off the end of the ejector rod so that when the release is pushed the center pin projects out from the ejector rod by just a whisker. Bad news is that on a blued gun you'll have a ring of bare steel that will be visible. However, a bit of Cold Blue can make that minor tweak nearly undetectable.
 
One other thing that can create a tight open situation, is the yoke barrel is a bit long, pushing the cylinder back against the face of the opening. This is along the line of an above suggestion of dirt, powder residue, or caked oil, under the extractor. A different way of creating the same situation. You do not want to take anything off the yoke barrel, if there is stuff under the extractor. If it is not the center pin, or dirt under the extractor, it might loosen up with use.
 
Try removing the extractor rod and physically cleaning where the centerpin, spring, etc go with a Q-tip. I had a similar issue recently with a K frame and this solved the problem.
 
Both ends of the center pin and ejector rod need to be checked to see they are adjusted right, as noted above, they need to come out enough to ,one depress the center pin (pushing on the thumb piece) and free (clear) the recoil shield as well as up front, come out to the end and push the locking bolt out of the way,,,maybe the taper of the bolt is not enough or the inside of the ejector too square ( flush) may need a slight chamfer on the inside''''tough to "see" it with out "seeing" the gun and "feeling" just what is hanging up....this only after you clean all the areas they noted above.
You say its nickel plated', I'd look at that also in certain spots...10-6 is not that old of a gun..............................
 
I had the same problem. The tiny holes on the back of the extractor star where the two extractor pins (5014) engage were filled with debris.Dislodged the gunk, problem solved.Hope that's all there is to it, good luck.
 

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Here I go again. I would take the gun to a qualified gunsmith. Let him take the gun apart and examine/service it, give it a good cleaning. You say the gun has been sitting in the safe for years. Maybe the problem you have was what caused it to be put away in the past.
 
Use a good screwdriver and take off the grips. Blast it with an arisol cleaner. Crud dryed oil or grease keeping locking bolt from comming flush, get the extractor good, and the sprung pin under the barrel. Push in the pin at the extractor check for flush at the rod end. I would not stone file or sand anything unless everything was checked and you are 100% sure of what wrong. Most likely it's just gummed up from its long nap in the safe. Oils and grease even hoppe's and wd40 turn into nasty nasty given enough time.
 
Gunsnwater said:
Use a good screwdriver and take off the grips. Blast it with an arisol cleaner. Crud dryed oil or grease keeping locking bolt from comming flush, get the extractor good, and the sprung pin under the barrel. Push in the pin at the extractor check for flush at the rod end. I would not stone file or sand anything unless everything was checked and you are 100% sure of what wrong. Most likely it's just gummed up from its long nap in the safe. Oils and grease even hoppe's and wd40 turn into nasty nasty given enough time.
Click to expand...


Exactly! DIAGNOSE the problem first
 
I own a nickel, 10-7 2" that when I open the cylinder and push hard on the thumb piece instead of concentrating on pushing straight foreward it hangs up. I can get the bolt to stick on the right side if doing this with the cylinder open? I'm assuming that someone at S&W didn't change their tooling enough during manufacture and left a step in this hole? I haven't taken mine apart yet but, think if I ran a drill into this hole the web of said drill would remedy my problem?
Mine works just fine if I concentrate on just straight foreward movement.
Steve
 
To the OP. It is possible someone got the side plate screws swapped as they appear the same but the one which retains the yoke is fitted. It's not wrong to remove the grips & clean gently with a solvent & re-oil with a good gun oil. WD40 is convenient BUT is know to be very bad for guns. It was intended as a Water Displacing (WD). The light oil evaporates leaving a gummy sticky residue... WD40 was implicated in jamming in Police semi-autos years ago.
 
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