Greetings!

Shooting 101 question for the group.

I have a newly-acquired 28-2 which seems to shoot 6" groups or so at about 30 yards. I am using " plinking" grade 38 special (American Eagle FMJ) and shooting from a bench while rested on a soft case...so, there are other variables at work besides the gun (like my eyes!), but I would have expected 4" groups or so with the 27-2 5" barrelI often shoot...and about 2-3" groups with better ammo.

What Would you recommend? Are there ways to isolate the variables affecting accuracy and/or generically "accurize" a revolver like this so it shoots well? Are my expectations too high?

Thanks!

In all seriousness, I would first make sure the "shooter" was accurized. One way to begin that process is by having someone with good shooting ability to shoot your revolver the same way, with the same ammo, etc., and see if there is a measurable difference. Then have someone (maybe the same man) watch you shoot to see if there might be some suggestions.

I had a custom .32 long made from a K-22 by Andy Horvath and shot it with the open sights on the gun at the 50' indoor range. Wow was I disappointed, looked like a .410 blast. I have a B-Square scope mount for this purpose so I removed the rear sight, taped the bbl where the mount clamps and installed a red dot on the gun. There is a piece that fits where the rear site was plus the bbl clamp. Now I know the gun shoots great. I removed all the variables and shot off the top of my shooting box also. I would have preferred a scope but the mount didn't fit, the groups would have been smaller. This is just one idea other then buying or borrowing a Ransome rest. Here's the results, Larry

Attached Images

	HPIM1591.JPG (95.4 KB, 120 views)
	HPIM1594.JPG (70.5 KB, 113 views)
	HPIM1595.JPG (73.2 KB, 109 views)

Hi Chilliarches,
Where are you? Maybe someone could offer some help if they are in your area.
Also, you might try a target load. 148 grain wadcutter loaded to around 750 fps if you are a handloader.
I have a six inch 27. It shoots target loads fine but doesn't come back to life with lead bullets again after I leave target velocities until I hit +P or higher pressures.
All guns are different.
amazingflapjack gives sound advice. Gun? Load? Shooter? Could be any or all.
Good luck
Mike

Welcome to forum, Chiliarches!

First things first- make sure the gun is well cleaned and lubricated. If you have been shooting a lot of .38's in it you may have a carbon build up in the cylinder that you need to clean out. Fouling in the forcing cone and barrel can also be affecting accuracy. So get the proper tools if you don't have them, and make sure your accuracy issues are not really maintenance issues.

Next up is the ammo. No offence, that is about the worst ammo you can buy in terms of accuracy. Lot to lot variations are tremendous, so you could easily have a "good" batch that shoots well, and then another box will be all over the target. I can't make any solid recommendations for you on ammo since I reload (and have found that to be the best solution to any ammo-related issues), but I am sure some others will have some ideas for you.

28-2's have a reputation as very accurate guns- I know my 4" example is one of my most accurate. Your gun may need some work if it has been shot a lot. Does it spit lead or have any evidence of timing issues? Do you know how to check it?

Finally, you may just be having a bad day at the range- it does happen. If you are resting the gun, try just bracing your forearms/wrists on the rest, and keep the gun off the deck. Resting on the frame or barrel of the gun can lead to inconsistent sight pictures and a perceived loss of accuracy.

S&W revolvers of the era your 28-2 was made really can hardly be made more accurate than how they come from the factory, as long as there are no manufacturing defects. You have a fixed barrel, and (barring wear issues) as long as the cylinder centers up on each shot and all cylinder and bore dimensions are in spec, you will have an accurate gun. Just gotta work on the shooter and ammo after that. HTH

__________________
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

A model 28 with a 6" bbl( I presume that is what you have) is capable of much better than 6 inch groups. Aside from the fact that you could be having a bad day at the range, I would try to remove some of the variables here. If you are not a hand loader, I would get a box of 38 cal. match grade ammunition . You said that you were shooting at about 30 yards. Come back to 25 yards, and get some 25 yard army L slow fire targets. Then clean the gun well to make sure you do not have carbon and leading issues. I agree with let someone else try it out, and shoot your standard 6 O'clock hold every shot. Don't worry about where they print on the paper, and ajusting the sights. You are looking for a group. I am assuming that mechanically everything is fine with the gun, such as the forcing cone and the timing. I have a feeling you will tighten up your groups

Revolvers can be accurized by "Blue printing" the gun much like bolt rifles are.

First, everything is put into perfect factory specified condition.
A heavy weight Match bull barrel may be fitted, or the original barrel can have the forcing cone re-cut and lapped and the muzzle can be re-crowned. The barrel can be re-set in the frame for a better fit.

The cylinder assembly is checked for uniform chamber throat size, and if necessary a new cylinder that can be uniformed is installed.
End shake, head space, alignment, and timing are adjusted to perfect condition.

The action can be worked over and a trigger stop may be installed.

A Patridge Target front sight can be installed, and a rear sight can be either replaced with a tighter sight, or better, a Match quality Patridge front and Target rear sight on a barrel rib can be installed.
These provide a rear sight with much more accurate click adjustments and a much bigger sight blade that gives a far better sight picture.

The most common Match type revolvers were the PPC (Practical Police Course) revolvers that had the heavy bull barrels, barrel rib Match sights, double action-only actions, and extensive tuning and adjusting.
The same general custom alterations can be done to build a Match revolver for NRA type matches.

All this can produce a far more accurate revolver, or by adjusting the standard revolver you can get more accuracy.

As above, much can be done by simply doing Match quality reloading.
By developing a light "Mid-Range" load using 148 grain lead, wadcutter bullets, you can get considerably better accuracy from a non-custom revolver that will take you a long way.

I know exactly what you are talking about here. I had such a gun made for me in the late 70's using a model 15 as a basis for the gun. It has a bouglas 1.2" bbl, and a full length Bomar rib. The action is mirror polished, and the trigger is polished smooth. The cylinders are chamfered for wad cutters. It will shoot 2inches at 50 yards. I still have it. At 25 yards with mid range full wad cutters it will tighten up below the 2 inches. I brought it to a LGS a couple weeks ago to get an idea of value, and they had not idea. They said whatever someone is willing to pay.

Here's what's probably 2 inches at 50 yards out of a stock 4 inch 66.

For what it's worth I just picked up a 10-6 similar to yours with an aristocrat rib for 300 this past weekend at a gun show. But it's like you said, it's worth what someone will pay. I think PPC revolvers made by a well known gunsmith such as Bill Davis or Clark would bring a bit more. There was a Bill Davis PPC one table down with an $850 tag on it, but no takers.

You have got to want that type of gun. Mine was made by John Towle of TNT arms in North Conway NH. 1977 or 78 , I would guess. It has the slickest action I have ever felt. It was changed to a coil spring. There was just a thread on this company a couple weeks ago. I decided to do it from the article I read in Gun World Magazine. His guns were on the front cover. Guess I paid about 300 for the work, and maybe 125.00 for the model 15 new

Back to the original topic: I would start by checking BC gap, headspace, timing, crane fit to frame, all the stuff you would look at when buying a used revolver.

You can google or probably find a post here on how to do it.

C.E. Harris wrote a great article on inspecting used revolvers using nothing but common tools (except maybe the feeler gauge). He used Allen (socket head) wrenches to check headspace. Wish I had saved it now.

A Ransom rest may be hard to come by. Remember to focus on the front sight and call your flyers. If you notice your front sight out of alignment at 7:00 when the shot breaks, eliminate that one from the group because it's you and not the gun (it helps to have a spotter or check each shot with a spotting scope so you know if you called it right.)