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01-19-2014, 10:46 AM
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Model 29-2 S vs. N Serial numbers
I've seen some Model 29s for sale with auction descriptions including 6-1/2" pinned barrels but serial numbers starting with "N". Was there a hard cutoff when S&W changed from S to N or was there a transition period with N serial numbers but some or all of the older 29-2 features (pinned barrel, recessed cylinders)?
Also, did Model 629 ever have serial numbers starting with "S"?
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01-19-2014, 10:50 AM
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The S Serial Number Change happened between 1969-1970...The Pinned barrel to non-pinned Barrel happened from the 29-2 & the 29-3 around 1980 or so..
The Model 629 started as a N serial Number, but you could get a Pinned and Recessed 629..
Hope this helps...
S Serial 29-2 carry a much higher premium versus an N Serial Number
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01-19-2014, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjbrewst1
The S Serial Number Change happened between 1969-1970...The Pinned barrel to non-pinned Barrel happened from the 29-2 & the 29-3 around 1980 or so..
The Model 629 started as a N serial Number, but you could get a Pinned and Recessed 629..
Hope this helps...
S Serial 29-2 carry a much higher premium versus an N Serial Number
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Thanks very much!
Just for clarification, did the barrel length change from 6-1/2" to 6" when they went to the crush fit versus the pinned barrel?
Also, when did S&W do away with the recessed chambers in the cylinder?
Sorry to ask questions that have been answered here many times. The Search function leaves a bit to be desired when you can't search for "29-2".
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01-19-2014, 11:48 AM
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Jim is right - the S and the N are simply serial number ranges within the N frame revolvers.
Two points for all of us to remember.
In light of the unfortunate American Rifleman article last year, remember that, as Jim says, the S and the N are simply N frame serial number ranges. There is no such thing as an S frame. Therefore, pass on these auction offerings which describe an overpriced 44 Magnum as one of the "rare S frame" 44 Magnums.
Secondly, the only change to barrel installation was that the pin and its corresponding hole were left out. The unfortunate term "crush fit" first appeared, to my recollection, in a magazine article at the time, leading many to believe that the frame and barrel threads were mismatched, or that the threads were cross-threaded or something else, resulting in a barrel that would be securely mounted. This misunderstanding was brought about by the fact that many had assumed that the pin actually held the barrel in place. Apart from the lack of barrel pin and corresponding hole, barrels are installed by the same method as they always have been. There are threads that address the process in greater detail, but essentially, barrels are screwed into the frame until they stop at roughly 10 o'clock on the clock face. They are then turned to the 12 o'clock position with a wrench to a specified torque setting. The resulting friction between the shoulder on the barrel and the frame is where the "crush" is - not the threads. If all goes properly, the sight is straight up and down. One degree past straight up and down and the whole process must begin again by removing enough material to take about one full rotation off the barrel shank, and it all starts again. If any barrel is removed, whether pinned or not, it typically must be re-fit in this manner, as it is almost never properly tight on re-installation. There are threads on changing barrels and it is in an incredibly complex task requiring a very skilled gunsmith and the right tools and gauges.
I am sure the OP and that Jim are well aware of this, but many other readers may not be, and the issue of the pinned barrel comes up almost as often as the issue of +P ammo and whether it is safe to use in this or that model.
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01-19-2014, 11:58 AM
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Thank you for that explanation, Shawn.
Now, can one of those rare "S" frames shoot +P?
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01-19-2014, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn mccarver
Jim is right - the S and the N are simply serial number ranges within the N frame revolvers.
Two points for all of us to remember.
In light of the unfortunate American Rifleman article last year, remember that, as Jim says, the S and the N are simply N frame serial number ranges. There is no such thing as an S frame. Therefore, pass on these auction offerings which describe an overpriced 44 Magnum as one of the "rare S frame" 44 Magnums.
Secondly, the only change to barrel installation was that the pin and its corresponding hole were left out. The unfortunate term "crush fit" first appeared, to my recollection, in a magazine article at the time, leading many to believe that the frame and barrel threads were mismatched, or that the threads were cross-threaded or something else, resulting in a barrel that would be securely mounted. This misunderstanding was brought about by the fact that many had assumed that the pin actually held the barrel in place. Apart from the lack of barrel pin and corresponding hole, barrels are installed by the same method as they always have been. There are threads that address the process in greater detail, but essentially, barrels are screwed into the frame until they stop at roughly 10 o'clock on the clock face. They are then turned to the 12 o'clock position with a wrench to a specified torque setting. The resulting friction between the shoulder on the barrel and the frame is where the "crush" is - not the threads. If all goes properly, the sight is straight up and down. One degree past straight up and down and the whole process must begin again by removing enough material to take about one full rotation off the barrel shank, and it all starts again. If any barrel is removed, whether pinned or not, it typically must be re-fit in this manner, as it is almost never properly tight on re-installation. There are threads on changing barrels and it is in an incredibly complex task requiring a very skilled gunsmith and the right tools and gauges.
I am sure the OP and that Jim are well aware of this, but many other readers may not be, and the issue of the pinned barrel comes up almost as often as the issue of +P ammo and whether it is safe to use in this or that model.
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Shawn, I was not aware of the similarities between installation of pinned and non-pinned barrels. I did understand exactly what a "crush fit" although it is an unfortunate term. Frankly, I was under the mistaken impression that there was something superior mechanically with the pinned barrels.
Based on this, it sounds like the pinned barrels simply indicate an earlier manufacturing date and the "S" starting serial numbers are even earlier.
I'm asking all of these questions because I am trying to buy a Model 29 or 629 and it is difficult to figure out fair values without understanding the changes in the revolvers over time.
I have a Model 25 made in 1976 which looks great on the outside. However, the tooling marks on the inside make it look like a drunk who was fired from the Vega or Pinto manufacturing line worked on the gun some hungover Monday morning. The cylinder throats are way over-sized too.
That makes me conclude that a pre-1970 Smith & Wesson probably is worth more than a 1970s manufacture date.
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01-19-2014, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjbrewst1
S Serial 29-2 carry a much higher premium versus an N Serial Number
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much much higher because both jjbrewst1 and I have an S Serial LOL
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01-19-2014, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Mac
Thank you for that explanation, Shawn.
Now, can one of those rare "S" frames shoot +P?
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I'm not sure that I want to try "+P" .44 Magnum ammo in ANY firearm
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01-19-2014, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTinMan
I'm not sure that I want to try "+P" .44 Magnum ammo in ANY firearm
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For the results of "home-made +P 44 Magnum," see this thread:
Untimely end of a "44 Magnum"
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01-19-2014, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTinMan
I'm not sure that I want to try "+P" .44 Magnum ammo in ANY firearm
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I heard they're coming out with a new J-frame in that caliber....
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01-19-2014, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTinMan
That makes me conclude that a pre-1970 Smith & Wesson probably is worth more than a 1970s manufacture date.
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I think that, in general terms, you are correct. 1956 44 Magnums likely command the highest prices, especially those of "museum quality." Most of us do not have to worry about finding one of those as Bill has them all already.
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01-19-2014, 12:14 PM
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All other factors equal, older will bring more. Shorter barrel will bring more.
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01-19-2014, 12:17 PM
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The last Model 29-2s with a serial number beginning with the letter "S" were made in 1969. Most were shipped in that year, but few were shipped as late as 1971 (particularly the 8 3/8-inch barrel length). Revolvers with a serial number beginning with the letter "N" began to be shipped in 1970 and the earliest ones were Model 28-2s. N 3 is the lowest serial number for a Model 29-2, but it was a special order revolver. The earliest N serial numbers for general production 29-2s I have seen are in the N18000 range a probably date to 1971.
S&W issued a directive to delete the 6 1/2-inch barrel in 1979. The Model 29-3 (delete barrel pin and counterboring of the charge holes in the cylinder) was introduced in 1982.
Bill
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01-19-2014, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn mccarver
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That load would have been more on the order of Double or even Triple P.
Just an FYI for anyone interested in this subject-
There was an oustanding article in Handloader magazine #265, April 2010 issue on loading +P loads for the Ruger Redhawk (and F/A 83) guns ONLY!!.
I have tried many of them and the Redhawk just shrugs them off with ease. Those loads should never be fired in a 29/629 or any other revo not specifically mentioned in the article.
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01-19-2014, 04:29 PM
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N frame evolution is not as clear to me as the K frame but
Isnt it really the diamond grips that add a premium on an earlier 29-2 over a later 29-2 ?
In other words is there any difference between a S-250,000 range 29-2 with diamond grips and an S-300,000 Model 29-2 with non diamonds other than grip style ?
Is there any physical difference between an S-300,000 Mod 29-2 and an early 70's N-180,000 Mod 29-2 besides the letter stamped in the serial ?
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01-19-2014, 05:41 PM
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Most 29-2s with an S serial number are a little more highly polished than those with an N serial number.
Bill
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