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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 07-27-2014, 03:37 PM
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I am trying to sell a .38 2" revolver that obviously is not a new model. It has 3 screws on frame and cross-flagged markings with BNP on the frame and cylinder. Serial #754904. I believe it is a Model 10 at least that is the way it was registered. Any other information would be appreciated. One important fact I need is if the revolver is double or single action. At this point the hammer does not stay cocked.
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Last edited by joe645; 07-27-2014 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 07-27-2014, 04:55 PM
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Welcome to the Forum.
You have a Military and Police revolver that was made in the early part of WWII. The barrel appears to have been cut. You can tell because there is no front latch to the ejector rod. This will have an effect on it's value in a negative fashion.
Is it marked .38 S&W or .38 S&W Special?
It is a double action revolver. If it won't cock then is is either very worn or somebody filed off the cocking notch.
Jim

Last edited by P&R Fan; 07-27-2014 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 07-27-2014, 05:08 PM
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Not sure why you feel the barrel was cut down. I have added a photo to my post of a S&W Model 10 "Victory" which sure looks like my gun. No marking for .38 or .38SPL.

Last edited by joe645; 07-27-2014 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 07-27-2014, 05:16 PM
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Unless it was a very early one it has a spring loaded clip that holds the end of the rod. That does not have one. Also the fact there is no caliber marking on the barrel shows it is a cut down barrel.
Try a .38 Special cartridge in it. If it won't fit it is a .38 S&W. If it fits but is loose, somebody reamed out a .38 S&W cylinder to accept .38 Special rounds. This was fairly common.
Jim
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Old 07-27-2014, 05:21 PM
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I have fired .38 SPL ammo with this gun with no problems except hammer issue. I will inspect it for worn or other problems before attempting to sell it.
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Old 07-27-2014, 05:32 PM
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Default Cut barrel

In the picture you will see metal hanging below the barrel. This is a latching device to hold the ejector rod when the cylinder is closed. The one on your gun has been cut off.

The reason you do not have a caliber marking on the barrel is because it is on the piece that was cut off! Your gun was originally single action and double action! If the hammer will not latch back for single action then your single action sear is worn or has been filed off, either way the only fix is to replace the hammer and the trigger!
jcelect
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Old 07-27-2014, 07:02 PM
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Would the value of the gun increase if barrel was replace with original 5" or would it be worth the effort?
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Old 07-27-2014, 09:30 PM
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Would the value of the gun increase if barrel was replace with original 5" or would it be worth the effort?
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:57 PM
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Sell it as a parts gun. Way too much wrong with it & needing parts plus labor to make it right.
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:28 AM
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What you have is called a "Chopped and Bored" .38/200 WWII British service revolver. It has no collector value and little monetary value. They were made up in huge quantities after WWII from surplus military revolvers, and through the 1960s, to be sold cheaply in the USA. You may be able to get $100-$200 for it. Most who know what it is would not want it, especially with the hammer problem.

Last edited by DWalt; 07-28-2014 at 12:30 AM.
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:16 PM
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Got the hammer problem taken care of. Cost $50. Since it fires okay, I think I will just keep it for a house gun. Thanks guys.
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:38 PM
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Got the hammer problem taken care of. Cost $50. Since it fires okay, I think I will just keep it for a house gun. Thanks guys.
That's what they were sold as - house guns, car/truck guns, and throwaways. When new, the going price was about $30, and a great many were sold mail order, quite legal at the time.
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